Hi,
I'm designing an acoustic speaker/amplifier rack for the very back of my C6. Very frustrated by the price of the custom fiberglass boxes that mount in the corners for 10" woofers.
To do the job the right way I'd like to fit my solid model for the box/rack into a model of the back end. Anyone aware of where one might exist for the C6? Thanks.

 

You find 300 bucks with a sub included to be too much? I don't think that 300 bucks for the NVX Boost is too bad...

 

No I was finding an unloaded corner box, that takes up none of the trunk space, for 379 dollars. This isn't a box that sits in the hatch area and takes up all the space.

 

Looks real nice but almost 400 for just the box. If you have something less expensive I want it!

 

https://nvx.com/nvx-boost-kit-for-20...-nsw104v2.html

Price went up 50 bucks it seems. Thanks Covid.

 

Yeah, the affordable ones like this only come on the one side. I build killer audiophile car stereos. I have to have a 10" on both sides. What can I say, I'm spoiled. Mine will be connected with a shelf between them that will hold the two amplifiers, and maybe some tweets. Very low, slight tilt forward to match the side boxes. Only way I can think to get it all in there without sacrificing space. THX

 

If you're doing both sides, you need the vette nuts boxes. A bit more at 390 each.... But that's still. 800 bucks, that's less than a high end subwoofer.

I'm curious now, what all are you putting in the car? I've been known to dabble. In SQ systems... And really can't decide on what to put in my C6. I would definitely recommend against th tweeters in the very back though... That seems like it's going to absolutely ruin your staging...

 

I was raised as a musician. During college I started my own business doing high end stereo installations, that's like in the 80's. I've built panels, boxes, whatever. My favorite car system uses two 10". Back in the day there were no separate subwoofer amps. Now there is. I'm putting in JBL GTO's mainly in the stock positions, (doors and side panels) 10" in the back. Two alpine amps 300w for the 4 channel, and 600 watts for the subwoofers. For the eclectic high end sound I have found over the years that two piezo's plates used in conjunction with the bass speaker really adds the crisp to the bass beat (secret formula). Haven't decided yet if I'll use the 3 1/2 speaker positions in the dash but will put tweeters in the high spots in the doors. Will be quite the sound when I'm done (hopefully). I have decided to by the wood and coverings and build my own twin box with shelf for the amps, very low profile in the back using those corner spaces and the volume provided by the small storage boxes. I have had the car for 4 years now and am tired of the weak *** bose stereo, even with a high end kenwood head unit. The bose amp and speakers are just limited. As far as staging?!? a little more weight in the back end seems to help with traction?

 

Your plan is to use 6.5"JBL Gto components for the front? That's uhh, not what I was expecting when you said high end audiophile stuff.

Good luck with your build!

 

The job got 6.5 was rated best for sound versus dollars. So we're the JL audio. I am on a budget if you couldnt tell. I also have carvin and other professional stage components in the band room I'll be using for the first iteration. Usually another iterations happen down the road if things need improvement. No I'm not the guy that buys 5000 dollar turntables and stuff like that.

 

$5000 Turntable? Chump change.

My Vertere Reference Tonearm cost $36K.

Don't even ask what the turntable cost.

JK

Good luck with your project.

 

Well that's what I suspected. Took me 4 years to pay off my 27K dollar vette. I am an engineer with a family of 4. Different world. I have built many a car sound system over the years. Nice when you can finally tune 1000 watts with a spectrum analyzer and bring out the dead spots for the really full sound. Never spent more than a couple of hundred for decent woofers. Have some polk audio reference woofers (or some professional Carvins) that I'll be trying on this application.

If you have some recommendations for 6.5 and 5.5 speakers for the stock positions in the C6 I am all ears. Certainly can't afford your kind of dollars thou. Thanks!

 

You're heading down the wrong direction if you're planning to replace a 10" woofer in the front door with a 6.5" one. Especially considering the 10 is a midbass woofer.

Parts express, buy yourself some Dayton Reference series drivers, be blown away people spend a crap load more to sound a crap load worse because the installer at their local mom and pop car audio and meth store recommended something else.

 

http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Cu...ure-clone.html

$229 for a dual 8” subwoofer enclosure. The hatch area is so small I think (2) 10’s is a bit overkill. I have 1 JL Audio 10” in the rear & I think that is plenty sufficient.

 

Not sure who would think they have a 10" woofer in their door?!? I've build a low profile shelf for the amps that connects to two corner boxes for the ten inch woofers. I like a little overkill when it comes to the bass. It's all about low level clean symphony kind of sound but being able to deliver that tight punch too! The shelf also allows me space for amp mounting and other gear.

 

I don't know what you mean. The factory Bose system is literally a 10" woofer in each door. There's also a 3" midrange in the door, and on the dash, and a 5.25 in the b pillar.

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Just going by the book and what it says. 6.5 in the door, 5.25 in the side panels behind the door, 3.5 inch in the dash center and upper doors. Bose system. I can believe it's not a 10 in the door with the lack of guts. I'll find out when I tear into it I guess. Having 10s all around would be quite different for sure.

 

There is no 6.5” in the door, it’s a 10” just as Fauee says.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...kers-help.html

 

It's a 10" fairly shallow midbass. It's not a subwoofer by any means, it's a midbass woofer. People. Put 6.5s in because that's what most car audio stores carry. There's very few car audio specific 10" drivers.

Like I said, just buy some Dayton audio stuff and you'll be so far money ahead.

 

Great, yeah I wouldn't think the door would be great for the real low end but that makes me rethink putting the 6.5's there. 6X9 s would be better or just go with 10 inch components as there is the space up above it. Cant imagine it would be that deep either with the window going up and down.
Thanks for the info. Dayton is on the list for sure