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Go with a Power Bond (about $200) from Rock Auto. Use only an ARP bolt and washer kit (about $35) and replace the front seal while you're in there. Are you doing this yourself?? There is several good video's on it on this site and U-tube. You'll need to disconnect the steering rack and remove it as it sits directly in front of the balancer. You'll need a Chrysler balancer remover tool (free rental from most auto parts stores). Use the old bolt to seat the new balancer then follow directions how to properly torque the new bolt to 240#. You can also borrow a torque wrench from the auto stores. There are several necessary tricks so you definitely want to watch the video's on it. Not an awful project but will take about 6-8 hours of labor even when you have to right tools at hand. To answer your question about alignment, no there is no keyway or particular alignment and it will "self start" on the crank fairly easily. If your car is an automatic you'll need to remove the starter and install a flywheel "lock" (available on e-bay or amazon), if it's a manual you can put the car in 6th gear and set the hand brake. Lots of good help on this site if you need it. Feel free to message me, I've done this myself.
Last edited by rbwinston; Aug 22, 2021 at 06:17 PM.
I've had my OEM balancer on for 3 years without any problems. It was installed under the used car warranty with 2 new serpentine belts and a 4 wheel alignment all free to me.
Ask 5 people get 5 different answers. Stock motor, I went with and inexpensive PowerBond and a GM crank bolt. I did replace the seal. Not sure why all the love for a $40 bolt. But hey, your $$, your choice!
So pulled the old HB today and put it on the bench. It's the same as my replacement Doorman part which means its been done already and the car only has 105 000 km on it. Why would it fail that fast? Rubber coming out the sides. Doorman says to align the HB same as old one but can't trust the last one was aligned properly and how would you do it without last marks.
It's balanced so why would you align it?
Shop installed it for like $300. Worth every penny since I hate dealing with pully pullers and did not want to mess with the steering rack.
Absolutely agree! A great replacement which I used myself. (BTW, I did it myself, but for $300 I would have had it done. ) If you having a problem, get it replaced NOW! If it backs up (as in my case) you're looking at a new cam cover gaskets at a minimum. If it moves forward you're looking at steering rack parts.
Here's mine from a '98. Notice how it moved backward toward the timing cover.
I have a 05 with 40,000 and after reading some of the post`s I looked and did see a little bit of wobble. I brought it to a shop that I can trust and after they checked it they found nothing abnormal and told me they have replaced them on other corvette`s and some still have this after replacement. Just sharing as I am not a mechanic.
I went with an ATI balancer and an ARP bolt. It might not matter what you use/choose when running factory power, but mine started squealing like a banshee when it finally went out. It had been chirping at me for several months before it died.
I have a 05 with 40,000 and after reading some of the post`s I looked and did see a little bit of wobble. I brought it to a shop that I can trust and after they checked it they found nothing abnormal and told me they have replaced them on other corvette`s and some still have this after replacement. Just sharing as I am not a mechanic.
Simply not true. Little bit of wobble = bad.
With my replacement you almost can't even tell it's moving it spins so straight. Also had a buddy with a z51 who had OEM balancer that also spun straight.
Mt 2012 Grand Sport 3LT Manual will be 10 years old tomorrow and other than maintenance, I never had any problem until yesterday when the HB started to make a scraping sound and wobble. Since I plan to keep the Corvette I bought an ATI HB and new bolt from Summit and will have the dealer install it.
99% of the aftermarket harmonic balancers are probably better than OEM, I did countless research and it seems Powerbond and ATI are good to go. My 07 with 80k miles had a wobble, I posted it on here and also had a mechanic look at it and they said it was slight and I didn't have to change it:
But to be cautious I did change it because I plan on keeping this Corvette long term and would've eventually replaced it, so why not now. I'm glad I did because once out, my original harmonic balancer rubber was already tearing that was holding the inner and outer part: