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Old Sep 5, 2021 | 07:42 AM
  #1  
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Default AC not cooling

I have 2005 C6, mostly sits in the garage, took it out yesterday AC wasn't cooling and compressor won't turn on. Added freon compressor came on but still not cooling. Any help would be great
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Old Sep 5, 2021 | 09:10 AM
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Add another can
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Old Sep 5, 2021 | 09:17 AM
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If that does the trick, then you must be losing freon, so it may he a good idea to get your system checked with a dye to find out where you are losing the freon.
Good Luck
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Old Sep 5, 2021 | 09:26 AM
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Bad advice all around. That is not how you properly diagnose an HVAC issue.
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Old Sep 5, 2021 | 05:39 PM
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:You may still be low but these cars don't take much. Probably worth it to get a proper diagnosis from a reliable service garage. Unless the problem is in the computer it shouldn't need to be a Corvette specialist or dealer.
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Old Sep 6, 2021 | 01:20 PM
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Advice concerning any tech to diagnose the problem is correct, but if it requires the removal of the compressor check to make certain they know how to do it without loosening the engine cradle.
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Old Sep 6, 2021 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by C6ToGo
Bad advice all around. That is not how you properly diagnose an HVAC issue.


Wow...you sure laid the mother of all help on him....


OP probably has a leak as others have said....One can may not be enough if it was completely empty....Need to verify if it has a leak and probably needs a vacuum and new oil and freon after leak is resolved...If all of the refrigerant is gone its probably a decent leak so should be easier to locate with the die.


good luck
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Old Sep 6, 2021 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hawkgfr
Wow...you sure laid the mother of all help on him....

OP probably has a leak as others have said....One can may not be enough if it was completely empty
Wow....even more bad advice! The C6 R134a capacity is about 22 oz and the consensus is that it is better with a little less...like 18 oz. That is a total of 1-1/2 cans of refrigerant for an empty system. So all this talk about adding more cans and one can is maybe not enough is bad advice. While I am waiting for happy hour, I will lay down a little more help, using my recent repair as an example.

My 2007 started blowing hot after 14 years and 95k miles.

Is compressor turning? - NO....... Hook up gauges, does system have pressure? - NO

Due to safety pressure switches that shut off the compressor when something is wrong, you cannot just add another can of freon.....the compressor is not running and there is no vacuum present to draw the freon in. The freon will just sit in the can.
The C6 pressure switch does not work like in older cars where you can just pull the plug and run a jumper wire across it to kick on the compressor clutch.

Best way (for me) is to pull a vacuum on the system which will allow one can of freon to be sucked in. One can is all you need for diagnosing. In my case it was enough to start the compressor.

Since I had a leak (due to no pressure on gauges), before adding a can of freon, I injected fluorescent tracer dye into the system before adding the can of R134
The compressor came on and I let it run for awhile to circulate the dye. I used the black light to locate the glowing dye. It was at the high side liquid line where it comes out of the condenser heading to the evaporator. Noticed the metal line was rubbing all these years on the sway bar bracket and finally wore a pinhole in it.
Got a $38 aluminum liquid line from parts store, installed, and pulled a vacuum.

I charged with one 12 oz can and needed another 6 oz or 1/2 a can. I got my small kitchen digital scale, put the second full can (with tap and hose attached) on it, zeroed out the scale and added freon until the scale showed negative 6 oz. Total charge 18 oz. Cools plenty fine.
Total repair with line, dye, and freon (2.5 cans....one to diagnose and 1.5 for final charge) was less than $70.

Here is a basic list of what you need to diagnose and charge an AC system:
  • Manifold Gauge Set (available as a loaner tool from parts store)
  • Vacuum pump (available as a loaner tool from parts store...make sure it includes a bottle of lubricating oil....store will provide as part of the loaner)
  • Dye injector tool which includes black light and UV safety glasses (available as a loaner tool from parts store) If you look on Autozone site for "loaner dye injection tool" , what comes up is NOT what you want. You want the kit that has the injector with hose, that black light that connects to battery and UV safety glasses.

What you need to buy:
  • R 134 refrigerant
  • UV dye. Will come in one ounce bottle of which you will use .25 oz. One bottle enough for 4 jobs
  • Freon can tap (make sure it is the one for the new-style self-sealing cans. There are 2 types of can taps and are usually not included in the loaner gauge set).

Good Luck

.
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Old Sep 6, 2021 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by C6ToGo
Wow....even more bad advice! The C6 R134a capacity is about 22 oz and the consensus is that it is better with a little less...like 18 oz. That is a total of 1-1/2 cans of refrigerant for an empty system. So all this talk about adding more cans and one can is maybe not enough is bad advice. While I am waiting for happy hour, I will lay down a little more help, using my recent repair as an example.

My 2007 started blowing hot after 14 years and 95k miles.

Is compressor turning? - NO....... Hook up gauges, does system have pressure? - NO

Due to safety pressure switches that shut off the compressor when something is wrong, you cannot just add another can of freon.....the compressor is not running and there is no vacuum present to draw the freon in. The freon will just sit in the can.
The C6 pressure switch does not work like in older cars where you can just pull the plug and run a jumper wire across it to kick on the compressor clutch.

Best way (for me) is to pull a vacuum on the system which will allow one can of freon to be sucked in. One can is all you need for diagnosing. In my case it was enough to start the compressor.

Since I had a leak (due to no pressure on gauges), before adding a can of freon, I injected fluorescent tracer dye into the system before adding the can of R134
The compressor came on and I let it run for awhile to circulate the dye. I used the black light to locate the glowing dye. It was at the high side liquid line where it comes out of the condenser heading to the evaporator. Noticed the metal line was rubbing all these years on the sway bar bracket and finally wore a pinhole in it.
Got a $38 aluminum liquid line from parts store, installed, and pulled a vacuum.

I charged with one 12 oz can and needed another 6 oz or 1/2 a can. I got my small kitchen digital scale, put the second full can (with tap and hose attached) on it, zeroed out the scale and added freon until the scale showed negative 6 oz. Total charge 18 oz. Cools plenty fine.
Total repair with line, dye, and freon (2.5 cans....one to diagnose and 1.5 for final charge) was less than $70.

Here is a basic list of what you need to diagnose and charge an AC system:
  • Manifold Gauge Set (available as a loaner tool from parts store)
  • Vacuum pump (available as a loaner tool from parts store...make sure it includes a bottle of lubricating oil....store will provide as part of the loaner)
  • Dye injector tool which includes black light and UV safety glasses (available as a loaner tool from parts store) If you look on Autozone site for "loaner dye injection tool" , what comes up is NOT what you want. You want the kit that has the injector with hose, that black light that connects to battery and UV safety glasses.

What you need to buy:
  • R 134 refrigerant
  • UV dye. Will come in one ounce bottle of which you will use .25 oz. One bottle enough for 4 jobs
  • Freon can tap (make sure it is the one for the new-style self-sealing cans. There are 2 types of can taps and are usually not included in the loaner gauge set).

Good Luck

.



You should have done that in the first place instead of trying be a smart ***....Its not a Mustang site...




Last edited by hawkgfr; Sep 6, 2021 at 11:39 PM.
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Old Sep 7, 2021 | 07:40 AM
  #10  
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I also have a 2005. A few weeks ago when I had the Corvette up on the lift changing the oil I noticed the a/c compressor is slowly leaking refrigerant at the seam in the compressor case. I guess that's a common issue that I was unaware of. My a/c system still cools at the moment. I plan on changing compressor this winter.
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Old Sep 7, 2021 | 08:12 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hawkgfr
You should have done that in the first place instead of trying be a smart ***....Its not a Mustang site...
Sorry......takes me 15 minutes to add a write up like that BUT only seconds to leave a smart *** reply. Time was of the essence on my first reply. Had to pee.
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Old Sep 7, 2021 | 08:25 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by C6ToGo
Sorry......takes me 15 minutes to add a write up like that BUT only seconds to leave a smart *** reply. Time was of the essence on my first reply. Had to pee.

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Old Sep 7, 2021 | 08:52 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by C6ToGo
Sorry......takes me 15 minutes to add a write up like that BUT only seconds to leave a smart *** reply. Time was of the essence on my first reply. Had to pee.




well done!
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Old Sep 13, 2021 | 05:44 PM
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And if you're going to just 'add a can', try and look for the stuff without the sealant in it. Yes, it's very hard to find but it's out there. All the sealant is, is a bandaid that'll cost you a lot more in the end...if you can find a shop that'll work on your car after they find you put glue in there. Nobody is going to risk ruining their recovery machine because you tried to take the cheap/easy route because of a TV commercial that said that stuff was great. If it leaks, get it diagnosed & repaired properly. If you've ever seen what that stuff does to the inside components of an A/C system, you wouldn't ever use it.
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