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Also timing is cut when it hits over 200. Here in California this past summer, cruising would be 195-205 and stop and go would be 200-215.
I found out the previous owner cut away the bottom air dam that feeds the high pressure radiator area, so I added that back and in addition I flushed the coolant, added water wetter, installed 170 thermostat, and set the fans to come on sooner.
Now I’m 170-180 highway and 190 in traffic. Don’t know which of the multiple things I did made the most impact though since I did it all at once.
How much did you reduce the temperature on the fans, I am thinking of 20 F? Also did you change the temperature of the fans based on oil temperature?
On the highway at 75 mph my 2005 will bounce between 190 and 198. When I get off the highway it will climb to 220 and then slowly cool down after the fans come on and
the thermostat has opened.
FYI. Stock thermostat is not 196. Stock is 187 or 186. Mine with DeWitts and dual Spal fans runs 196 to 200 on highway and 205 to 210 in town. Higher RPM and it runs cooler.
I get similar numbers, 205-210 in town/spirited driving
One issue overlooked in this discussion is electrolysis in automotive cooling systems. The aluminum block and radiator will give up metal in a galvanic circuit is established with a more noble metal so having a pH balanced system is pretty critical and that is done with distilled water and GM's pH balanced anti-freeze. It may even be worth it to check the pH level periodically to make sure it remains neutral.
On the subject of hot water heaters, one individual mentioned the junk that comes out of the hot water tank when it is flushed is from solids in the water accumulating in the tank. That isn't really true. Hot water tanks have a sacrificial anode installed in them and what you see when you flush your tank is anodic material that has sloughed off the sacrificial rod. Softened water systems will exacerbate the issue due to the sodium ion exchange, in other words, softened water is actually salt water. It isn't a lot, but it is there. It is a good idea to periodically inspect and replace the sacrificial anode at specific intervals to maintain protection against electrolysis.
^Fact^ Basically the metal rod is there to take the abuse so your sink/shower fixtures don't.
Any water treatment experts here? So then what the best type of water to mix with coolant (Dex-cool)? Deionized? Distilled? Tap? And how do we obtain/maintain a neutral pH or is this even a consideration for automotive cooling systems? There are so many factors to consider here, not sure what's important and what not. To me, I think what's important is to maintain maximum heat transfer with a minimal amount of corrosion.
Not an expert here but why wouldn't you just use the premixed gallons you can buy at any automotive store? I know it costs a bit more but I think you are
overthinking things. Of course you can do what you want with your car, just my humble opinion.
Not an expert here but why wouldn't you just use the premixed gallons you can buy at any automotive store? I know it costs a bit more but I think you are
overthinking things. Of course you can do what you want with your car, just my humble opinion.
I guess then, the real question is, "what type of water is used in the premixed coolants?"
Not being cheap here, maybe overthinking, just want to know what is best. My engineering background trained me to think this way. Inquiring minds want to know.
Are additives like Royal Purple Purple Ice , AMSOIL Dominator ,..etc safe to use in a C6 ?
Yes they are safe to use. They contain SCA's or supplemental cooling additives which have water pump lubricants and additives which reduce the surface tension of the coolant which increases heat transfer by reducing the amount of air bubbles that form on the heated surfaces of the engine or any surface for that matter. There are more ingredients in these additives but those two, mentioned above, are the ones that jump out at me.
I guess then, the real question is, "what type of water is used in the premixed coolants?"
Not being cheap here, maybe overthinking, just want to know what is best. My engineering background trained me to think this way. Inquiring minds want to know.
So I've sent a note to Prestone customer support, who supplies 50/50 premix Dex-cool, what water they mix it with. I'll post their response in this thread if they reply.
So I've sent a note to Prestone customer support, who supplies 50/50 premix Dex-cool, what water they mix it with. I'll post their response in this thread if they reply.
”It is De-ionized and filtered. We get it as close to perfect as we can in our plants.
Thanks for reaching out
Prestone Customer Service”
Now they didn’t say how they filter it. If they use reverse osmosis, then I’d say then the end result would be pretty much equivalent to distilled water. When I’ve had the coolant changed, I’ve always supplied my own premix so that I know that they don’t mix the full strength stuff with tap water in my cooling system. At least I hope they don’t.
”It is De-ionized and filtered. We get it as close to perfect as we can in our plants.
Thanks for reaching out
Prestone Customer Service”
Now they didn’t say how they filter it. If they use reverse osmosis, then I’d say then the end result would be pretty much equivalent to distilled water. When I’ve had the coolant changed, I’ve always supplied my own premix so that I know that they don’t mix the full strength stuff with tap water in my cooling system. At least I hope they don’t.
That was quick! thanks FatsWaller! So De-ionized water is a good start.