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Thanks to all who replied. I am in the process (a slow process) of removal and now have all my questions answered except why do I have a pair of
cooling lines on each side of the radiator? My car is a manual, oil cooler on drivers side, what are the other lines for?
Drivers side lines are for oil cooler
Passenger side lines are for the 6 speed transmission
Thanks to all who replied. I am in the process (a slow process) of removal and now have all my questions answered except why do I have a pair of
cooling lines on each side of the radiator? My car is a manual, oil cooler on drivers side, what are the other lines for?
Well, you learn something new here everyday. 2005 to 2008 Z51 M6 use a heat exchanger in the rad to cool the transmission. That's on the passenger side. There's a pump on the tranny that ciirculates the fluid. This is a good read https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-confused.html
So if you are considering an aftermarket rad, then be sure to get one that has all the internal heat exchangers and fittings. After 2008, the engine oil cooler mounts externally in front of the AC condensor. Those can be retrofitted on a car that didn't come with one and probably do a better job at cooling since the coolant is going to be minimum 195 or so under the best of conditions. Not sure what the cooling effect is going to be when the coolant reaches 225+.
Well, you learn something new here everyday. 2005 to 2008 Z51 M6 use a heat exchanger in the rad to cool the transmission. That's on the passenger side. There's a pump on the tranny that ciirculates the fluid. This is a good read https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-confused.html
So if you are considering an aftermarket rad, then be sure to get one that has all the internal heat exchangers and fittings. After 2008, the engine oil cooler mounts externally in front of the AC condensor. Those can be retrofitted on a car that didn't come with one and probably do a better job at cooling since the coolant is going to be minimum 195 or so under the best of conditions. Not sure what the cooling effect is going to be when the coolant reaches 225+.
My GS 6M came with the air oil cooler which may be great on a track but is really not very good on a daily driver combined with the dry sump 10.5 quart oil capacity. Basically the oil only gets warm on most drives and only up to proper temp (180) when you really flog it. With my DeWitt rad with the built in oil cooler the oil temp is much more stable and never goes over 200 even on the hardest mountain road flogging. Note that the C8's all have their oil coolers in the rad.
My GS 6M came with the air oil cooler which may be great on a track but is really not very good on a daily driver combined with the dry sump 10.5 quart oil capacity. Basically the oil only gets warm on most drives and only up to proper temp (180) when you really flog it. With my DeWitt rad with the built in oil cooler the oil temp is much more stable and never goes over 200 even on the hardest mountain road flogging. Note that the C8's all have their oil coolers in the rad.
I guess then we have a difference of opinion on proper oil temps. I’d like to see the oil stay around 215. Hot enough to boil off water but not lose too much viscosity. I’ve got an A6, so wet sump and no oil cooler as shipped. I retrofit the Z51 cooler and lines and thankfully not the Z06 cooler because under most conditions so far oil temps don’t rise above 207. Only a couple of times did it get close to 212. Prior to the retrofit I saw 225 to 230 a few times.
I guess then we have a difference of opinion on proper oil temps. I’d like to see the oil stay around 215. Hot enough to boil off water but not lose too much viscosity. I’ve got an A6, so wet sump and no oil cooler as shipped. I retrofit the Z51 cooler and lines and thankfully not the Z06 cooler because under most conditions so far oil temps don’t rise above 207. Only a couple of times did it get close to 212. Prior to the retrofit I saw 225 to 230 a few times.
I don't think we really disagree. The stock GS air to oil cooler on the GS ran around 160 degrees even on long trips which is just too cold. It would get higher on serious long mountain pulls. With the cooler in the rad it consistently runs warmer but never gets too hot. I think it does actually get up to about 220 now (said 200 in my previous post). I've been out of my GS for 4 months getting both knees replaced. Would like to fast forward the next month or so to get through rehab and drive again!
So the follow up is I have installed the new radiator. I am now doing a few warm up and cool down
cycles to be sure I have the correct amount of coolant.
The plastic end cap had a split in it, the seal on the crimps did not leak.
It is not a real easy DYI because of access to things.
Again thanks for all the answers to my questions.