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I developed a leak in the radiator of my 2005 m6 base. I got a quote to change it of $1700. It is not a "Corvette shop" but I have used them for other things
but this seems quite high. I am going to get other quotes. My question is, and try not to beat me up to much, what do you guys think of using a stop leak
chemical to seal it until I can get it repaired either by a shop or when I have the time to tackle this myself. Thanks for any help.
I would personally never use leak stop unless it was an emergency. If that stuff plugs leaks, what else is it restricting in the system? It will also depend where the leak is if leak stop would be effective, Get another quote, as it should not take that long to change out the radiator. $1700.00 is ridiculous. It's a mid difficulty DIY if you have the tools.
If you do decide to use Leak Stop, when you are ready to change out the radiator, flush the system out really good to assure you get rid of the leak stop prior to installing the new radiator. Good Luck
It depends on how badly it's leaking. If it's a real slow leak I would certainly try the stop leak tablets that GM used to install as factory equipment to keep the Northstar engines from leaking. Doesn't cost much, and it may solve your problem, even if only temporarily.
These radiators are EXTREMELY easy to diy, especially models without the additional oil line connections such as yours. I know when I changed mine in my 07 I had some issues finding a rad for a reasonable price, but once I did the install itself took maybe 2 hours tops.. And that's taking breaks and dicking around with the buddies included. 1700 sounds like highway robbery unless they're pricing the parts at like 1500..
I would personally never use leak stop unless it was an emergency. If that stuff plugs leaks, what else is it restricting in the system? It will also depend where the leak is if leak stop would be effective, Get another quote, as it should not take that long to change out the radiator. $1700.00 is ridiculous. It's a mid difficulty DIY if you have the tools.
If you do decide to use Leak Stop, when you are ready to change out the radiator, flush the system out really good to assure you get rid of the leak stop prior to installing the new radiator. Good Luck
They quoted the radiator at $680, 4 hours labor at $145 and then said the system needed to be flushed, (I had that done about 6 months ago). They also said they have to disconnect the A/C and then
charge the A/C again. I walked away fast. Thanks for your reply.
if you can find an OEM radiator you can DIY.....its not hard I just did mine in my Z06, had to disconnect AC and recharge which is ridiculous but my buddy has the equipment
that being said, make sure the one you get is the right one for your application....GM sent me one that they swore was the right one for the Z but it was not, it was wider and not the same....I got the correct one after a few calls...price was only a couple hundred bucks....don't get ripped off
if you can find an OEM radiator you can DIY.....its not hard I just did mine in my Z06, had to disconnect AC and recharge which is ridiculous but my buddy has the equipment
that being said, make sure the one you get is the right one for your application....GM sent me one that they swore was the right one for the Z but it was not, it was wider and not the same....I got the correct one after a few calls...price was only a couple hundred bucks....don't get ripped off
I will probably tackle it. I thought I could get an OEM for $250 but they do seem hard to find in these crazy times. Thanks for you reply.
OP you do not have to mess with the AC condenser lines. There are clips that hold the condenser to the rad which you have 3 options for..
1. Mess with it and try to get it to disconnect
2. Break the tab (most common)
3. Evac the system, pay $$$ to recharge.
I took route 2 when doing my rad and saved myself a ton of headache. There's still other tabs for the two pieces to hold onto, so it's not like you're left with a dangling condenser.
They quoted the radiator at $680, 4 hours labor at $145 and then said the system needed to be flushed, (I had that done about 6 months ago). They also said they have to disconnect the A/C and then
charge the A/C again. I walked away fast. Thanks for your reply.
Rockautoparts.com has OEM radiators in stock for your car for $219. That shop is trying to rip you off big time. There is absolutely no need to disconnect the AC to change the radiator.
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Originally Posted by jjfabs
They quoted the radiator at $680, 4 hours labor at $145 and then said the system needed to be flushed, (I had that done about 6 months ago). They also said they have to disconnect the A/C and then
charge the A/C again. I walked away fast. Thanks for your reply.
Wow, I leave the AC system fully intact and connected when pulling a friggin engine so there's no excuse to disconnect it for something as simple as a radiator swap.
The GM pellets are a PITA to use. IIRC, you can't just dump them into the surge tank - there's insufficient flow to effectively disperse them into the cooling system. What you end up with is an orange/brown mess in the tank. Easy to use in rads with the old fashioned rad cap, but here you'll need to take off one of the rad hoses and drop them in there. Look at this as an opportunity to upgrade to a DeWitts rad.
Here's a link below to the radiator I bought to replace the leaking one in my 2008 base with automatic trans. Good price and high quality. It fit like a glove and I've had no issues for a year now. Like those before me stated, there is no need to disconnect any AC lines or condenser.
Oh, it cools better than OEM. Also, I would never use any stop leak. It will stop leaks (coolant flow) everywhere throughout the cooling system for sure.
You shouldn't have to disconnect AC, but if you need to and can DIY, it is 18 bucks to recharge system (if you are a rebel and discharge to the atmosphere). Free parts store loaner AC gauges and vacuum pump, 2 cans R134 and a can tap.
AC-Delco radiator should be 21558
GM radiator should be 15145946
The GM pellets are a PITA to use. IIRC, you can't just dump them into the surge tank - there's insufficient flow to effectively disperse them into the cooling system. What you end up with is an orange/brown mess in the tank. Easy to use in rads with the old fashioned rad cap, but here you'll need to take off one of the rad hoses and drop them in there. Look at this as an opportunity to upgrade to a DeWitts rad.
Maybe a small PITA in this case, but bottom line is they work without causing any problems. That's why GM used them in the problematic Northstar engines.
These radiators are EXTREMELY easy to diy, especially models without the additional oil line connections such as yours. I know when I changed mine in my 07 I had some issues finding a rad for a reasonable price, but once I did the install itself took maybe 2 hours tops.. And that's taking breaks and dicking around with the buddies included. 1700 sounds like highway robbery unless they're pricing the parts at like 1500..
My car has cooling lines on each side of the radiator. Drivers side are for oil cooler? Passenger side for the tranny? I have a manual, are there cooling lines for the manual tranny?
I have never seen a manual with cooling lines. My question is, is how do you disconnect these lines? Twist a little and pull?
I believe the engine oil cooler is in the rad, driver side on some model years, so that’s what you are seeing. Tranny cooler is on the passenger side. The lines are held in place with a spring clip that you can pull out with a small pick. There’s a raised bit on the clip where you can insert the pick. Be careful you don’t lose the clip. There was a recent thread with pics on this very topic but I can’t find it right now. Don’t do any twisting or pulling with the clip still in place. With the clip removed the line should pull straight out.
Problem with oem radiators, is they have plastic side panels with gaskets that are crimped on in place, and its just a mater of time before the gasket gives up the ghost to leak as well.
So if your planning on keeping the car for another 10 years, behooves one to not go to an all aluminum radiator isntead.
Problem with oem radiators, is they have plastic side panels with gaskets that are crimped on in place, and its just a mater of time before the gasket gives up the ghost to leak as well.
So if your planning on keeping the car for another 10 years, behooves one to not go to an all aluminum radiator isntead.
Thanks to all who replied. I am in the process (a slow process) of removal and now have all my questions answered except why do I have a pair of
cooling lines on each side of the radiator? My car is a manual, oil cooler on drivers side, what are the other lines for?
I changed my 05 Z51 6 speed radiator a few years ago. Wasn't to bad. GM radiator was approx $300 including Dex Cool. Hardest part to me was disconnecting the ac condenser plastic clips from the radiator and not losing the little c type clips for oil coolant lines.