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EDIT: After looking at log timing looks ok actually looks a bit low. What I saw of the wot pulls looks to be in in the 21-22* range. I would go ^ (25) on timing as I didn't se any KR
EDIT: After looking at log timing looks ok actually looks a bit low. What I saw of the wot pulls looks to be in in the 21-22* range. I would go ^ (25) on timing as I didn't se any KR
With you on that one!! Most LSx motors I've seen need way less timing than OP has. Most I've seen are around 24°-26°. At 33°-You're in traditional small block Chevy territory. They need a lot more timing that the LS motors.....
I’m no tuner but 33* of timing is frightening. Being recommended a 160 t stat to reduce knock is scary too. No fans on the dyno I can’t remember ever seeing or even hearing about. Don’t drive it hard until it’s gone through. Have you used this shop before? There could be a number of issues, but if my car came back and the graph looked like that I would be worried. Hopefully it all works itself out soon. Looks like the car is going to make good power when it’s sorted though.
Looks exactly like valve float up top, fyi. Something is wrong, it should smooth out not waver inconsistently. Also yes 33* would be an exorbitant amount of timing in LS's.
Originally Posted by floorman279
wouldnt that easily be seen on the tune tho?
Well, you can log Fuel Injector Cycle, like in HP Tuners Scanner, which will tell you all across the board (on a dyno run, or street run).
Originally Posted by slowtealz28
I’m no tuner but 33* of timing is frightening. Being recommended a 160 t stat to reduce knock is scary too. No fans on the dyno I can’t remember ever seeing or even hearing about. Don’t drive it hard until it’s gone through. Have you used this shop before? There could be a number of issues, but if my car came back and the graph looked like that I would be worried. Hopefully it all works itself out soon. Looks like the car is going to make good power when it’s sorted though.
So Pat G took a look at the tune. He says it looks pretty bad. Says he can fix the hot start and low power issue. Most likely having him tune it, remotely.
Original tuner still thinks it’s the car. Says he doesn’t want to waste time messing with the car again because my issues are not tune related. 🥳
So Pat G took a look at the tune. He says it looks pretty bad. Says he can fix the hot start and low power issue. Most likely having him tune it, remotely.
Original tuner still thinks it’s the car. Says he doesn’t want to waste time messing with the car again because my issues are not tune related. 🥳
I would take Pat G's advice here and just move on with it. Let us know how it turns out, good luck!
Congats with the success, I'm glad the car runs well.
Might be interesting to Dyno. You don't have to change tunes, SAE numbers are still something, also can see the curve, a/f
EDIT I forgot to mention, the most important reason to Dyno, is to make sure that is not valve float in the upper rpm's. You might not feel this during normal running however will show on the graph.
Congats with the success, I'm glad the car runs well.
Might be interesting to Dyno. You don't have to change tunes, SAE numbers are still something, also can see the curve, a/f
EDIT I forgot to mention, the most important reason to Dyno, is to make sure that is not valve float in the upper rpm's. You might not feel this during normal running however will show on the graph.
I agree, you want another dyno run to ensure that you don't have any mechanical issues above 5K rpms.
If you decide to run the new tune on a dyno, try to find another Dynojet, if you don't want to use the previous dyno. Ask the dyno operator to put a wideband in the tail pipe and request the dyno, drf file. I would datalog the run and include knock in your parameters.
In the meantime, please post some datalogs of some WOT runs, with knock recorded.
Here are some city cruising logs. Car is running solid.
Just checked the logs, looking good,
- No knock retard recorded
- Inj cycle maxes near 70 on your jounts, pretty sure perfect
- Your ST and LT trims look surprisingly good
- Your O2 readings while jounting looks spot on (i.e. a/f)
- Running low-mid 20's jount spark
That is what I know to look for, there's a number of additional parameters, but that is typical.
With you on that one!! Most LSx motors I've seen need way less timing than OP has. Most I've seen are around 24°-26°. At 33°-You're in traditional small block Chevy territory. They need a lot more timing that the LS motors..... 
