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Dano523, thanks but I have an automatic. I am hoping to avoid breaking parts for sure. The car only has 79,000 miles on it and does net seem to have been beat on too badly.
When I first started running my C6 on the OEM RF's, I found a 1200 RPM stall launch worked best. It was just enough to push close to the break loose limits without getting any tire hop. First ever pass with idle punch had a 2.076 short time and a 12.58 ET. 10 passes later with a 1200 stall launch, the 60' time was 1.960 and ET at 12.43.
Since you can't go quicker than 13 flat, get a package of Home Depot wood shims for under the skinny peddle. Start with 1 and add as needed.
I was hoping you would post up. Thanks. I will try 1200 RPM launches first time out. The 60' times Ive seen posted seem slow. My 87 was usually 1.87 on street tires, running pretty consistent 12.80s.
Just comes down to learning how to slip the clutch enough as you are rolling into the throttle, that as your coming out of the hole, you keep the tires hooked up to the available traction until, you can fully engage the clutch/ and roll on more throttle then.
No, even with racing slick and M6 trans, if you play the clutch dump/pin the throttle game, it going to break the tires, so you back to learning how to slip the clutch on launch for the available traction, and still then using the throttle rolled on to hold tires sticking on the roll out as well.
As for if you screw up the launch and get into tire spring at any point, get out of the throttle on the spot! Do not try to pedal the throttle to get the tires to stick again!!!!
If the tires start to wheel hop from spinning, then get a good bite, your going to blow the diff up as it cracks the case.
Note, with drag slicks, and even not spinning the tires on launch, it just a matter of time before the diff case lets loose as well, just from the increased amount of torque your putting into the differ not designed for high G launch in the first place. https://youtu.be/ObXW_0Ma50s
Short version, long output shaft out of the trans, pinon gear on the end of it, and with enough torque, pinion gear tries to walk out of the ring gear, to either snap the trans output shaft, or crack the case from the over torque.
As for the stock clutches, easy enough to slip them, but if you replace the clutch, need to make sure your going with organic plates, hence clutch that is to be slipped. Inorganic plates are really good at holding a lot of power, but are more like an on/off switch, that do not slip well as needed instead.
Dano, The OP has a bone stock LS2 with A6 trans and a 2.56 rear gear. He'll never blow out the case.
Dano, The OP has a bone stock LS2 with A6 trans and a 2.56 rear gear. He'll never blow out the case.
Famous last words, and only if he drives around the water box to keep the tires dry to the line, does not got hog wild with wet burn outs and into into wheel hop there.
Famous last words, and only if he drives around the water box to keep the tires dry to the line, does not got hog wild with wet burn outs and into into wheel hop there.
Jack you won't need drag radials, if your A6 has a stock converter feeding it a top quality summer tire (think PS4S or similar) will work great & only bark on the 1-2 shift! The track would have to be a NO/prep deal to have you worried about starting line issues. Like everyone has said go around the water but you need to back in just enough to get the rears damp. Pull forward out of the box do a 3-5 sec burnout to get the tires clean. I would recommend DEEP staging as I think your going to be clicking off runs in the 12.6-12.8 range. Good luck & have fun
Jack you won't need drag radials, if your A6 has a stock converter feeding it a top quality summer tire (think PS4S or similar) will work great & only bark on the 1-2 shift! The track would have to be a NO/prep deal to have you worried about starting line issues. Like everyone has said go around the water but you need to back in just enough to get the rears damp. Pull forward out of the box do a 3-5 sec burnout to get the tires clean. I would recommend DEEP staging as I think your going to be clicking off runs in the 12.6-12.8 range. Good luck & have fun
I hope you are correct on the tires. I never drive through the water unless the car has slicks and skinnies. Its been a long time since I have had a car with slicks. I like the idea of deep staging. The class I plan on running uses a pro tree so there is no way I can red light. I am really looking forward to the track opening in March.
I hope you are correct on the tires. I never drive through the water unless the car has slicks and skinnies. Its been a long time since I have had a car with slicks. I like the idea of deep staging. The class I plan on running uses a pro tree so there is no way I can red light. I am really looking forward to the track opening in March.
i dont know i think you should snag a set of MT SS 275/40/17s and either the C5 Z06 wheels or a set of Dark Stars(cheapest of the drag wheels) and just let it rip when i first took mine to the track i almost ate the wall and that was on 305/35/19 Nitto G2s and i walked it out then rolled into the throttle
Yes, that's exactly what it'll do in both my race car and the Grand Sport. I need a pretty extensive burnout in the race car but with the Grand Sport I only needed to heat up the tires a bit.
Some action shots of the race car are shown below and if you zoom in you can see just how well they're able to hook as they wrinkle like a full slick. Again, this isn't directly applicable to the OP's car but does illustrate how important good traction is.
youve gotta do a wheel stand. How else they gonna see your front plate!
