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Several forum members have done exactly that. Be sure you use the proper gauge wire should you require any additional and solder the connections and then seal them.
The following replaced the stock connector with heavy-duty unit, in case he ever wanted to pull the fan without having to cut the wires. Does make some sense.
Did you modify the fan table so that the fan ramps up sooner? If so, that puts more stress on the connector. If you then bypass the connector, the stress is passed on the the fan controller. It can then fail.
No the fan table is stock.
I just finished the bypass and fans are working fine,
Ill need to re solder the ten gauge since I didn't have an iron hot enough. I used butt end crimp splices. I'm going to pick up a mini torch tomorrow and solder the connections.
Last edited by vetteJPJ; May 15, 2022 at 11:16 PM.
A service bulletin several years ago by GM recommended the ECM be programmed to no more than 90% duty on the fan. Supposedly, this was the cause of the melting connector.
Hardwired the fan several years ago after the connector melted for the second time. Also "tuned" the fan table to command the fan to run a little faster a little sooner.
Here's a comparison between the stock and modified fan tables:
Stock Fan Table: Notice the fan is only 50% @ 215* and doesn't go to 90% until 225*. Used to regularly see 230* in summer traffic.
Modified Fan Table: The fan comes on at the same 200* but ramps up to 90% quicker
The car runs noticeably cooler in 100* stop & go summer traffic for several years now, and nothing has burned up. Don't believe the naysayers who have never done it
