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I had a similar issue last year with a strange "Squeek". What I finally did was pull all the shocks and clean the rubber bumpers then lubricate them with silicone grease. There may be an outside chance that the upper and or lower control arm bushings are dry or cracked. If the bushings are bad replace them if possible. Also clean and lubricate the spring height adjustment rubber pads while you have everything apart. Another thing you might consider is to disconnect the front sway bar and drive the car a short distance, then do the same with the rear bar. At this point you are eliminating possible origins of the problem. Please let us know what the fix was when you find out.
[QUOTE=cmonkey713;1605908504]I had a similar issue last year with a strange "Squeek". What I finally did was pull all the shocks and clean the rubber bumpers then lubricate them with silicone grease. There may be an outside chance that the upper and or lower control arm bushings are dry or cracked. If the bushings are bad replace them if possible. Also clean and lubricate the spring height adjustment rubber pads while you have everything apart. Another thing you might consider is to disconnect the front sway bar and drive the car a short distance, then do the same with the rear bar. At this point you are eliminating possible origins of the problem. Please let us know what the fix was when you find out.[/QUOTE
obviously it is something and, until it gets figured out, it could be any of a variety of causes. based on the sound of the noise, when it happens, the affect of temperature and where it appears to be coming from ( from the drivers seat position ), it sounds like it is just from the
rear passenger wheel area. and with it being a relatively clear sound ( only slighted muted ), it's location is and source are sounding more and more like what BMF C6 suggested. I'm taking the car back to the shop this Saturday for the leveling bolt install.
I'll see if i can talk him into checking out the rear quarter panel area too.
Ok here is my shot in the dark, on the drivers side & the passenger side, in front of each rear wheel well, between the rear quarter panels and the car's interior walls is a bag filled with what looks like expanded foam which is contained in thick plastic. This foam conforms to shape of the space and is used for sound dampening of that cavity between the inner wheel liners and the door jam. On the drivers side it is around the gas filler tube and wheel liner.
Just thinking that in cold weather the plastic gets stiff and makes noise and as the temperature rises it softens up. There is a large cabin vent behind the rear passenger side speaker that is one of the biggest ways for noise (road and otherwise) to enter the cabin. It's a plastic frame with just thin rubber flaps that allows cabin pressure relief when the doors and lid is closed but it is definitely a major way for noise to enter the cabin. When I did my sound deadening project years ago I actually put CDL over it and used a 3/4" socket to cut some holes to allow the pressure out but also covered vent and it made a hell of a difference on cabin road & other noises entering the cabin.
You can only get to this vent by removing the rear passenger side wheel well liner, it snaps out only towards the outside but is located right behind the rear passenger side speaker.
there could be something in these areas making the noise..........
Just a shot.............. Good luck
is the point of access, what is shown in the upper right section (of the inner fenderwell, near the door) of the attached picture? if so, can it be accessed / removed with the fender still place? sorry for the blurry pic.
is the point of access, what is shown in the upper right section (of the inner fenderwell, near the door) of the attached picture? if so, can it be accessed / removed with the fender still place? sorry for the blurry pic.
So sorry - I never got a notice that you replied to this thread. The answer is yes the fender can stay in place but you will have to loosen all the screws to the inside inner wheel well liner, pull it out or just enough that you can reach into that cavity. I used your photo and I think (fuzzy photo) I circled the vent that I am talking about. It just snaps in place and easily pulled out.
So sorry - I never got a notice that you replied to this thread. The answer is yes the fender can stay in place but you will have to loosen all the screws to the inside inner wheel well liner, pull it out or just enough that you can reach into that cavity. I used your photo and I think (fuzzy photo) I circled the vent that I am talking about. It just snaps in place and easily pulled out.
no worries, i haven't had a chance to get to the shop yet anyways. hopefully I will in a week or so. you mentioned that there is a similar insulation on the drivers side too. assuming it is also accessed the same way ( removing the inner fender well )?
Cgladish, yes exactly the same on both sides, just remove the screws and either completely remove the liner or move it enough to gain access to that cavity.
Ok here is my shot in the dark, on the drivers side & the passenger side, in front of each rear wheel well, between the rear quarter panels and the car's interior walls is a bag filled with what looks like expanded foam which is contained in thick plastic. This foam conforms to shape of the space and is used for sound dampening of that cavity between the inner wheel liners and the door jam. On the drivers side it is around the gas filler tube and wheel liner.
Just thinking that in cold weather the plastic gets stiff and makes noise and as the temperature rises it softens up. There is a large cabin vent behind the rear passenger side speaker that is one of the biggest ways for noise (road and otherwise) to enter the cabin. It's a plastic frame with just thin rubber flaps that allows cabin pressure relief when the doors and lid is closed but it is definitely a major way for noise to enter the cabin. When I did my sound deadening project years ago I actually put CDL over it and used a 3/4" socket to cut some holes to allow the pressure out but also covered vent and it made a hell of a difference on cabin road & other noises entering the cabin.
You can only get to this vent by removing the rear passenger side wheel well liner, it snaps out only towards the outside but is located right behind the rear passenger side speaker.
there could be something in these areas making the noise..........
Just a shot.............. Good luck
i haven't had the chance to address this (the old 'life happens' excuse). i do though plans to take it to the shop this Saturday. fingers crossed that this is the issue.
Cgladish, yes exactly the same on both sides, just remove the screws and either completely remove the liner or move it enough to gain access to that cavity.
Good Luck
BMF
well, I was finally able to get to the shop Saturday, they were able to get the pressure relief box. they did find the bag of sound insulation. when I drove it (1-1/2 miles, +/- 55°F ), I did not hear the noise.
when i went to drive the next morning, the noise was still present, I confirmed with the shop this morning that they indeed remove the insulation (they say that they did).
I was 100% sure that this was the issue. back to the drawing board. thinking about taking it to body shop and have them remove the fenders. maybe see if anything looks out of the ordinary.
I'm pretty sure it is not gas tank related, as the noise is the same whether the tanks are full or empty. the only variable I can see is temperature. about 65°, no noise. in the summertime, on the rare occasions when the temps to drop into the
low 60's, the noise is present. as it gets closer to 65° it lessens and finally disappears. it also seems to be loader as the temp's getter colder. currently, we are experiencing morning temps as low as 32° (no comments from the east coast people. 32° is still cold).
Being temperature activated and ruling out fluid or insulation sources, makes me wonder if it’s a seal issue around the rear hatch or the roof rubber, or a body panel that is misaligned and rubbing. I’ve seen the insulation problem making noise but you’ve ruled that out. Check and/or lube the various gaskets around the doors, top and fuel door areas just for kicks and see if that helps. With the miles and years you have on the car, if it was a serious mechanical problem I would think you would have found yourself on the side of the road by now. Oh yeah, at sixty you’re just a spring chicken. 75 here and only squeaks I hear are my own joints
Being temperature activated and ruling out fluid or insulation sources, makes me wonder if it’s a seal issue around the rear hatch or the roof rubber, or a body panel that is misaligned and rubbing. I’ve seen the insulation problem making noise but you’ve ruled that out. Check and/or lube the various gaskets around the doors, top and fuel door areas just for kicks and see if that helps. With the miles and years you have on the car, if it was a serious mechanical problem I would think you would have found yourself on the side of the road by now. Oh yeah, at sixty you’re just a spring chicken. 75 here and only squeaks I hear are my own joints
this has been going on for about 3 years now. about 65°, the car makes almost no noise ( squeak and rattle-wise ). while i can't rule anything out at this point, my spidey-sense is telling me, the noise is coming from where the gas tanks are located.
i've tried running from almost empty ( 15 - 16 galllon fill up ) to full. this doesn't nothing to change the sound. again, if you can imagine the sound of an ice chest, filled 50/50 water & ice, sloshing around ( and about as loud ), that's the best that i can describe.
only going over bumps and only when below 65° F.
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