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What's lost in all these HB threads is that the only HB that has a reputation of failure is the GM harmonic balancer.
An important point that does indeed need repeating!
I have once seen a comment about a Powerbond only lasting a couple of years but obviously we don’t know who installed it or if it was done well, etc. Every other person who has used one has been happy to recommend it. Definitely worth doing front seal while in there; it’s minimal difference in time/cost. I own a C5 and when doing mine earlier this year also did the belts, tensioners and idlers, along with some other bits that needed doing. I did opt for the pin kit even though it’s generally only needed if going the FI route. Oh, and, yes, ARP bolt gets the thumbs up from everyone who has ever used one so I went that way too.
Summit do a good balancer holder that is worth looking in to.
+1 for this solution path. And the other front end goodies that make sense like belts, tensioners, seal.
In my case, the steering rack bushings were found to need replacement,
After reassembly and front end alignment, like new car handling!
After two GM replacement balancers I went with the ATI two years and 20K ago. As for replacing the engine or needing a rebuild unless you are going for more horsepower I have 176K on my original engine with no sign of wear.
I drive hard and I definitely will be doing it for more horsepower not because of engine problems.
+1 for this solution path. And the other front end goodies that make sense like belts, tensioners, seal.
In my case, the steering rack bushings were found to need replacement,
After reassembly and front end alignment, like new car handling!
I did a DRM rack bushing as well since it was all apart, good call out as it’s often not mentioned since the rack is moved out of the way.
When in doubt change it out. I was changing my belts yesterday and decided it was time and I took Mike98Silvert advice and order everything today. Thanks Mike for posting the Summit part # for the balancer!
All you need is the Power Bond PB1117SS harmonic balancer or any quality HB (anything not OEM), the ARP Bolt & the front seal. I also thought this was going to be too much to take on but once I started the project, it was actually easier than what I was thinking it would be. There are videos and posts to follow for moving the steering rack out of the way. Actually the thing that was the hardest was torqueing the old bolt on the installation pass to 240 ft/lbs.....almost strained at nut on that one......lol
It is also a good time to change belts, idler pulleys or update to the latest power steering hose if needed. I took my time and spent about 5-6 and just made sure i did everything right.
You can do this yourself, there is enough information out there, just put the car on on jacks stands, pull the radiator and put the ac condenser on top of the engine and you on your way!
Don't worry about pinning it unless you plans on installing a PC or SC.
Crank Bal Bolt - Install Pass - OLD bolt 330 Nm 240 lb ft
Crank Bal Bolt - First Pass -NEW Bolt for first & final pass 50 Nm 37 lb ft
Crank Bal Bolt - Final Pass 140 degrees
Good Luck,
BMF
I just did mine and could NOT figure out how to hold the crankshaft still to apply required torque, I ended up using a 3/4” drive impact but not happy about that. How did you hold the crank?
I am looking to purchase a 2005 Corvette coupe fully loaded - Z51, transparent roof cashmere leather dual zone HVAC heated and power seats etc. 52K miles, it has the wobble for HB and pulleys chirp. I visited or called 6 different shops in Northern Virginia - the recommended shop estimates $1400 labor for the job plus parts and alignment. Car has been garaged kept since new and is well maintained. Owner is asking 20K but that was BEFORE repairs - car needs fluid exchange of all the major components/systems. Car has new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, newer brakes, new state inspect and emissions. What would be a fair price given this background?
I am looking to purchase a 2005 Corvette coupe fully loaded - Z51, transparent roof cashmere leather dual zone HVAC heated and power seats etc. 52K miles, it has the wobble for HB and pulleys chirp. I visited or called 6 different shops in Northern Virginia - the recommended shop estimates $1400 labor for the job plus parts and alignment. Car has been garaged kept since new and is well maintained. Owner is asking 20K but that was BEFORE repairs - car needs fluid exchange of all the major components/systems. Car has new Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, newer brakes, new state inspect and emissions. What would be a fair price given this background?