Next project has shown itself. Looking for some input, and more than it costs more so it must be better kind of info. I've got a 2008 daily driver and it looks like it's harmonic balancer time, is it worth the extra $200+ to get the ATI balancer over say the summit or power bond one? Or just go factory, got 70k miles out of this one and I'll be rebuilding or replacing this motor before it hits another 70k. Thanks in advance for any info or personal experience.

 

About to have the balancer replaced on my 06 C6 with 89K.

 

No need for the expensive one. The summit one is just fine. Get the arp bolt and the front main seal and you're good to go

 

I went with the ATI on mine, whichever one you go with, have it pinned.

 

Why? 21 century muscle, one of the best LS shops here in dfw told me it wasn't necessary when I had mine done. Unless you're running FI or something.

 

I had better check with the shop doing my balancer and see if they will install aftermarket balander. I know the Checy dealers don't want to mess with aftermarket installations.

 

The Summit unit is essentially an accessory pulley rated for high RPM with the appropriate certification. The GM unit is a 15$ part designed to fail after warrenty to generate a huge labor ticket and sell you the $15 dollar part for 115$. They should also be ashamed at themselves for putting it on , blame the bean counters not the engineers. To understand more I've included a link BELOW to a discussion on the topic with then engineers from ATI, Fluidampr and TCI.

My opinion is that you buy this part because its protecting your engine from harmonics or resonances that can cost you the engine itself. Your Crankshaft is internally balanced so this is only controlling runaway resonances and providing accessory belt drive. Aftermarket also gives you a chance to use an under drive pulley, which I also use and prefer.

I use the Fluidampr unit on my Diesel Trucks, Corvettes and Race Cars 'unpinned' as does Gale Banks. Its usually 25% less than the ATI unit which also often comes with a keyway cut in it. LS cranks don't have keyways.

Since you have to remove the same parts to do a cam swap, its a good time to consider one if you engine is stock. Just think about what I've pointed out and read this discussion below and read what the vendors have to say for themselves.

https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...damper-advice/

You should be able to have a competent shop install the Fluidampr with labor for $ 1K. The job takes about 6 hours in and out.

edit ; fix link

 

Get the powerbond. Works for all applications as far as for pinning, it's only needed for FI set ups. Easier to do it during the install but not necessary.

 

I have a 2006 LS2 Convertible and went with the Summit SUM-C2501 harmonic balancer last November at 68K miles. It is a quality balancer and after 6 months and 4K miles it continues to perform flawlessly, I paid $199 for it. I chose to go with an ARP bolt for $34 and the GM Crankshaft Seal was $21.I also replaced the belts, tensioners and idler pulley. I would not install a GM balancer.

 

This is the way. Way too many people overcomplicate this fix and it's really that simple. The hardest parts finding the right shop as it's about 3-4 hrs labor

 

After two GM replacement balancers I went with the ATI two years and 20K ago. As for replacing the engine or needing a rebuild unless you are going for more horsepower I have 176K on my original engine with no sign of wear.

 

Power Bond. Around $200 from Rock Auto. ARP bolt for sure, new seal, belt. Not a terrible job, you can do it yourself if you're reasonably comfortable with tools. No need to pin it unless adding a super charger. Super chargers add additional drag on the crank pulley and there is a possibility it could slip. Otherwise don't worry about it. About a 6 hour job with the right tools and an extra pair of hands. Did my own and I was 77 at the time (almost 80 and the balancer will surely outlive me!). Plenty of video's on how to do it.

 

If I'm gonna do it I'll go top of the line. Probably not needed but that's just me

 

Great write up and link. I have called 3 different dealerships around me and they all want to rip you off. One wanted around $2k (all replaced with stock HB), another 1700, and one more at $1500 just for labor. Doesn’t include the HB at this price. One dealer wanted me to pay over $400 and the stock HB was on back order. A regular shop around me will only replace with the stock HB for $1400.

What ever you do, don’t take it to the dealership. Most dealers quoted me 6 hours of labor and a corvette specialty shop here in Columbus, OH quoted 8hours labor for whatever reason. My 05 only has 29k in miles but they all tell me it’s a ticking time bomb.

I have watched numerous how to videos and just seems a little too intense for your home DIYer. My biggest fear is messing something up when reinstalling everything correctly. I still haven’t replaced mine as I just can’t make up my mind on what HB to go with and where I could go for install. Without getting ripped off. Or just attempt to do the install in the garage.

 

All you need is the Power Bond PB1117SS harmonic balancer or any quality HB (anything not OEM), the ARP Bolt & the front seal. I also thought this was going to be too much to take on but once I started the project, it was actually easier than what I was thinking it would be. There are videos and posts to follow for moving the steering rack out of the way. Actually the thing that was the hardest was torqueing the old bolt on the installation pass to 240 ft/lbs.....almost strained at nut on that one......lol

It is also a good time to change belts, idler pulleys or update to the latest power steering hose if needed. I took my time and spent about 5-6 and just made sure i did everything right.

You can do this yourself, there is enough information out there, just put the car on on jacks stands, pull the radiator and put the ac condenser on top of the engine and you on your way!

Don't worry about pinning it unless you plans on installing a PC or SC.

Crank Bal Bolt - Install Pass - OLD bolt 330 Nm 240 lb ft
Crank Bal Bolt - First Pass -NEW Bolt for first & final pass 50 Nm 37 lb ft
Crank Bal Bolt - Final Pass 140 degrees

Good Luck,
BMF

 

Another vote for ATI and have it pinned.

 

anybody recommend places in northeast ohio? appreciate a post/reply or send me private message.
thanks

 

Serra Whalen Chevrolet installed my Summit Racing HB without an issue. The tech said it was a good choice. They installed the ARP bolt as well.

 

Also looking for recommendations for central KY

 

What's lost in all these HB threads is that the only HB that has a reputation of failure is the GM harmonic balancer.