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Hello fellow Vetterz..I read all this stuff on tuning here...What is minimal thing you can do to your car that would require tuning?
For example can you tune a Completely STOCK C6? At what point in upgrades would it require a tune?
For question #2....I got an engine and A6 trans tune for my bone stock 07. More for better drivability, and improved shift points, than for performance.
Any mod that affects fuel/air delivery and evacuation could benefit from a tune even if the benefit is small. That said, the stock ECU is capable of adjusting for minor to moderate A/F changes (ask the guys who drive in CO). Tuning a stock car probably won't net you much except as C6ToGo mentioned above. Possibly you may want to tune for different fuel use (I run E15 from Sheetz almost exclusively because I'm a cheap bastard).
I don't know the parameters of the system, but I'd suspect that if you have an intake and headers a tune would help, but not be strictly necessary. My base has headers but no intake; I believe that the previous owner had more on it and there's a tune in it based on a few observations. I'm waiting for my Vararam before I get it re-tuned.
Going to break tuning a stock motor down to 4 parts.
First, can pick up about 14hp on the average, which most will not be able to tell the difference.
Second, the car has Torque management (how much power the motor can put to the rear tires in a given amount of instant time), and if you turn this off, really wakes up the car. So its not that you did gain say the 14hp, but now allowing all the power to make it to the rear wheels without being hobbled that makes the huge difference for most with a tune on a stock motor.
Next on the table if the car has an automatic trans,and tuning the trans for firmer shifts makes a huge difference.
The last one is a touch over the top since most tuners are not set up to do this, and that is to retune the throttle tables.
IN stock form, not only are the throttle tables set up to be very sedate, but as you start to turn off the nannies, the throttle responses gets more sedate.
To get a better understanding of how OEM sedate, if you have the gas pedal pressed down about 65%, the throttle body vane is only open about 15% once it gets there, since the reaction times of the TB vain opening that amount is sedated as well. Come off the throttle, there is a stall in the reaction of the vain before it start to close, in the name of better gas mileage. Granted that you never want to target throttle pedal amount to same TB vain amount, but you do want to increase not only at slope, but increase the reaction time of the vane to pedal for any nanny off setting (no delays, and react with what the pedal is doing in real time so you can control the rear end better).
To note here, throttle add on controllers only makes the car think that you have the pedal pressed down farther.
It does not change the pedal to TB vain percentage slope, does not increase the reaction times of the Vanes movements, and you will have the stall in effect when you do come off the throttle before the vane starts to close.
There is no min. More timing and less fuel always makes more power regardless of mods.
Your gains won’t be huge, but they will be present and will probably run more efficiently.
My 07Z has had CEL lean code, bank 1 and 2 light on for a while. I have done all the checks and cleaned the MAF. I just had had the heads redone and hoped that would find and fix any air leaks. Code came back on at start up. The car has Hurricane intake and BB exhaust, no headers. I am going in tomorrow for a dyno tune but hate to spend $800 because the car runs great/ perfect... Any advice please?
Going to break tuning a stock motor down to 4 parts.
First, can pick up about 14hp on the average, which most will not be able to tell the difference.
Second, the car has Torque management (how much power the motor can put to the rear tires in a given amount of instant time), and if you turn this off, really wakes up the car. So its not that you did gain say the 14hp, but now allowing all the power to make it to the rear wheels without being hobbled that makes the huge difference for most with a tune on a stock motor.
Next on the table if the car has an automatic trans,and tuning the trans for firmer shifts makes a huge difference.
The last one is a touch over the top since most tuners are not set up to do this, and that is to retune the throttle tables.
IN stock form, not only are the throttle tables set up to be very sedate, but as you start to turn off the nannies, the throttle responses gets more sedate.
To get a better understanding of how OEM sedate, if you have the gas pedal pressed down about 65%, the throttle body vane is only open about 15% once it gets there, since the reaction times of the TB vain opening that amount is sedated as well. Come off the throttle, there is a stall in the reaction of the vain before it start to close, in the name of better gas mileage. Granted that you never want to target throttle pedal amount to same TB vain amount, but you do want to increase not only at slope, but increase the reaction time of the vane to pedal for any nanny off setting (no delays, and react with what the pedal is doing in real time so you can control the rear end better).
To note here, throttle add on controllers only makes the car think that you have the pedal pressed down farther.
It does not change the pedal to TB vain percentage slope, does not increase the reaction times of the Vanes movements, and you will have the stall in effect when you do come off the throttle before the vane starts to close.
Dano nails it in reference to the throttle tables. I had ECS tune my GS after I did a full Z06 exhaust conversion, mostly to correct the tables than to adjust for the exhaust.
For question #2....I got an engine and A6 trans tune for my bone stock 07. More for better drivability, and improved shift points, than for performance.
I did this and was really worth every penny of the 600.00 I paid. They got me tuned at 407 or 409 HP on a stock car. Torque I would have to look up again
he also got rid of throttle lag too. The paddle shifters i still have not tried out but with tune it should be better
My 07Z has had CEL lean code, bank 1 and 2 light on for a while. I have done all the checks and cleaned the MAF. I just had had the heads redone and hoped that would find and fix any air leaks. Code came back on at start up. The car has Hurricane intake and BB exhaust, no headers. I am going in tomorrow for a dyno tune but hate to spend $800 because the car runs great/ perfect... Any advice please?
If you are getting a lean code then the car isn't running perfect.
Good point. So do I need to spend $800.00 for a dyno tune or is there another way to tune the A/F wo spending that kind of money on a car that "Feels" like it is running well?
Good point. So do I need to spend $800.00 for a dyno tune or is there another way to tune the A/F wo spending that kind of money on a car that "Feels" like it is running well?
You know, some folks with a terminal illness can "feel" like they're running well. That's why there are diagnostics machines. You need to have your car professionally tuned. I've seen LS7s detonate because cylinder 7 goes lean and cracks the piston after a faulty (or lack of) professional tune. Of course, you could always invest in some tuning software and learn how to do it yourself. I have a buddy who tunes his own Hellcat.
If you're interested in tuning from a somewhat corvette specialty shop, contact Late Model Domestics down in Virginia Beach, They can give you some direction on what you may want to go with whether it be just tuning, parts, or if you decide to leave it alone.
I did this and was really worth every penny of the 600.00 I paid. They got me tuned at 407 or 409 HP on a stock car. Torque I would have to look up again
he also got rid of throttle lag too. The paddle shifters i still have not tried out but with tune it should be better
Was it an etune? I've been looking into Chuck COW.