It works.

 

This is on my manual swap parts list whenever i get everything together, ill probably have to pick your brain a bit when the time comes! Sick stuff, glad to hear it works well!

 

I’m particularly interested in this install because while I like the size and ease of tuning of the Auto Blip unit, I refuse to use those garbage wire taps in my car. I like this unit because of the plug n play aspect. More detailed pics would be cool, though. Or a quick video.

 

What else would you like photos of? I'll try to get a video this weekend.

 

Interesting. I've never owned a car with automatic rev matching. I'm just so used to blipping it manually. This could be fun, and I like the fact that you can just switch it off when you're not driving aggressively.

 

I'm interested in the cable routing, especially for the switch. Did you have to remove the console to install it? Also, what about the cable to program it? Any drilling needed?

A driving video would be cool too!

Thanks so much for the write-up!

 

Bro, you're gonna have to give me a demostration.

 

I did have to remove the center console to route some wires and mount the switch; no way around that if you want to do it right. I also had to remove the panels that are under the dash on each side... the panels with the footwell lights attached. I did not have to remove the climate control or stereo, there's plenty of room to work with those still in place.

The size of the clutch/accelerator pedal plugs on the Xineering harness are too big to pass entirely behind the center console so I had to pass them over the top of the center hump, across the front, and then into the passenger area. See the red dotted line for the clutch/acc pedal wiring, the yellow for the switch, and the green for the programming wire. All the wires are hidden under carpet or other panels, there is nothing visible.

I have a few pictures from the install back in April but there is so much going on under the dash that even I can't quite make out what is what anymore. I don't think they'd be helpful. One thing that was helpful was my zip-tie method. Everywhere I used a zip-tie to tidy the wiring up, I used a red zip tie, so if I ever have to remove any of this, I can easily find where I added things by looking for the red.

The cable to tune it was run from the module into the glove box without having to cut, drill, or remove anything else. I'll snap a photo of it later when I'm trying to do the video.


I should have the other day but we'll get another chance. It's fun.

 

It's a little shaky in the beginning but it settles down.




Here's the tuning cable routed into the glovebox, tucked away with my TPMS tool.

 

I need one of these. I just posted about this. How well does it work coming down from 6500 rpms?

 

It's great, it will do whatever you want it to do. The limitation it has is once you program it for a certain amount of rev match, you are stuck with that until you change it. So if you program it for aggressive downshifts from high rpms like what you are asking, it makes it way too aggressive for more tame shifts like a 4->3 on the street.

I saw your thread and I'm also a motorcycle track day kind of guy, but this module does much better than I could do when it comes to trying to heel-toe and revmatch the Corvette.

 

One more question - I assume the lighter housing is a factory part? Cool video btw.

 

Yes the black plastic ring around the outside of the button is what the original outlet was pressed into, then that snaps into the open hole in the console.

 

I have up and down rev matching on my 2020 Aprilia. My 2016 Ape only had clutchless up-shift. The up and down clutchless shifting has revolutionized my Track riding and is very fun on the street too. I am so much smoother, somewhat faster and safer with this technology. I love it!
I think at least for me (Novice Vet driver) this will do the same for my driving.
I wonder if we could get enough people interested to get a group buy going? At $520. the price is actually quite good though.

 

You are correct. I installed the Auto Blip about 4 years ago. The Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) code was thrown. I replaced the accelerator pedal assembly because it was cheap. Still had the code.

The U-connectors are crap for this application. I removed the drivers seat and soldered all the Auto Blip connections. I big PITA but no more codes.

I added the Auto Blip because I was terrible at heal/toe shifting. The Auto Blip worked great. I added it to save clutch wear on the track.

 

I'm going to take the plunge and do this mod. Do you happen to have the part number of the lighter outlet handy? Thanks!

 

Yes sir...

Dorman 56457 Lighter Socket And Removal Tool

 

How does this device differentiate a Downshift from an upshift?

I would t want any additional flare on an upshift

 

You have to be on the brakes for it to work.

 

Thanks!