I have been a long time sport bike riding/track guy. Downshifting and throttle blipping are 2nd nature to me on a motorcycle. My ear and right wrist are well trained. Bought a C6 Z06 last year and slowly getting used to driving it 'street fast' in tight corners and sweepers. I may try a little parking lot slalom course for fun soon.
Several times going into corners from 3rd gear into 2nd and obviously also into1st when down shifting, I get wheel hop from the 427 compression. Totally messes up a fast smooth entrance exit.
Could you guys explain how to rev match correctly in this awesome car?

 

Heel-toe downshifting. Look up a tutorial on youtube if you need it.

 

Yep gotta rev match a little. Hard for me to heel toe since I got ity bity feet and the throttle and brake are too far apart but do the best I can.

 

Youtube it is..Thx

 

I think there is a thingy you can buy to get you the throttle blip rev match when you depress the clutch without heel tow...like comes on the c7...


edit for...
Here is the first one that popped up....https://www.auto-blip.com/

 

Heal/toe to rev match as you are coming down to shift faster so you can slip a few gears on the way down to get you into the apex throttle out. clutch out point, get hot enough in to the corner that you can on the clutch all they way to apex to keep the front weight transferred, and learn how to slip the clutch in a higher gear out of the apex to carry you all the way out of the end of the corner until its time to shift again.

Bluntly, you can play rev range with the LS7 if you have the talent to skate the car and keep it in control, but do not use the engine for engine braking. The brakes on the car will slow you down a hell of lot faster with more control that the engine will, correct braking will weight transfer to the front end to keep the front end gripping as needed, and your not killing the motor and drive line by trying to play the engine braking game with them to start with.

 

Yes, I learned years ago the engine is a very expensive brake.

 

Also to point out, on the race bike, not need to use the clutch for shifting with hrottle blippers (need throttle by wire for downshifts to blip the rpms up, while spark cut works for up shift on bikes still running throttle cables), but since the C6 M6 still needs you to use the clutch for shifting, then waste of time for blipper/throttle cutter for stock M6 trans.
Note, such works very well with sequential trans that you don't need to use the clutch to shift one banging up or down a single gear, but still back to using clutch when doing hard 5th to 2th at end of straight, since would just end up over rev'g he motor not using the clutch.
Also to point it, it's kind of funny, since if shifting is not done on the wheel via button pushes, but on the trans stick instead, can get to 2nd on a M6, about as fast as it take three down shift bangs on the lever to achieve the same on the sequential trans instead. As why faster lap time on the sequential trans, faster on the up shifts since your not having to use the clutch on the way up or down so much, and don't get lazy trying to run a gear out a little too long just before a corner instead

 

So I watched some Youtube toe/heal- side of foot how to vids. I went out and practiced the sequence of the dance. Def takes some real practice to get good but when I got it right it made quite a difference.

Dano523, are you saying don't get a throttle blipper?

 

Just ordered the Autoblip they have a 15% discount.
Do not like the stress on driveline coming in to corners under braking and downshifting.

 

Correct don't get it, since you still need to use the clutch to shift each gear, no reason for an auto blimp in the first place, since you can heat toe shift to dance the rpm up enough when needed instead.
Plus ,if you set on up for just a single gear downshift with light rpm upwards blip that are really not needed, never going to bounce the RPMs high enough for a 5th to 2nd down shift off the high speed straight into the end exit corner in the first place.

And lastly, never, and I mean never, use the engine or drive line for engine braking.
Motor is for acceleration, brakes are for braking and weight transfer the car all the way to the apex instead. So should never be more than a half second from one to the others full use, Hence no gliding the car into or out of a corner on road course conditions.

 

Thats the same on a bike. Thank you.
I would like to hear some more opinions from anyone using electronic Autoblip.

 

Most of what Dano is saying is true but as a novice, I can focus more on hard braking later into a corner when I am not trying to blip the throttle at the same time. To a pro it's probably not a major factor but how many laypeople can actually do it well? I certainly cannot but I might be in the minority.

About the rev matching from 5th to 2nd... By the time you brake hard enough to slow the car down into 2nd gear territory, the amount of throttle to rev match from 5->2 isn't going to be drastically different than a high rpm 3->2 shift. It's still 2nd gear so the wheel speed and engine speed still match with very similar amounts of throttle blip. You just need more % blip depending on how high you want to start from each gear. Might only be 2000rpm on the street vs 4000rpm on the track.

 

Best way to learn is with the car off. You can visualize coming into a corner, even close your eyes, and move your hands and your feet the way you need to.

I'm no expert but I can do it a little bit. The blips you hear in these videos are me heel and toe downshifting. While I am braking I depress the clutch, I move the gear shift lever at that time into the lower gear, then use the heel of my foot to tap the accelerator while the ball of my foot is still on the brake pedal. Typically when the revs go up and then are starting to fall I let out the clutch. More often than not it isn't perfect but it's better than trying to select the lower gear with no rev match.

I have always found that it's harder to do it on the street just because you typically don't depress the brake pedal far enough down to easily reach the accelerator with your heel or in a lot of cases drivers roll their foot to the right.

 

The pedals are kind of wide spaced on the C6 for it being a HP performance sports car (and not adjustable), and what helps is to shorten the distance so you can get to the gas pedal with your heal a lot easier. So gas pedal that has wider base.

 

I actually wrote down the sequence on a posit note (like I used to years ago on the gas tank of my track bike) and now have it on the cig cover in front of the shift lever.. but Racingswh your info perfects it even better/ cleaner (do it all at once).. I rewrote it..Thank you

Dano, that pedal cover is what I need. Where should I order from please? Thanks

 

Racing, your vid is awesome. I love your overtake on red #7 and the (I think )the silver S2000? Super, but I could not hear your blips, lol.

 

Thanks very much. Glad you like it!

First blip is at 11 seconds of the first video. 4th to 3rd gearchange. 2nd blip is at 45 seconds 4th to 3rd. 3rd blip is at 1:21. 4th blip at 1:56 and the last blip at 2:29. Anytime I take my hand off the wheel to make a downchange I blip the throttle as well. They are quick and don't last very long.

Same thing in the 2nd video. Anytime I take my hand off the wheel to make gear changes down I blip the throttle to match the revs.

 

So I'm the only one who brakes with my heel to blip with my toe on my c6z06?

BMW I use big toe for brake 5th toe for throttle blip. Vette is too car apart to do this for me.

 

Oh that's an interesting idea, never thought to try it like that.

On my E36, I had no troubles but I did it how you described... Big toe brake, little toe blip. Loved that car.