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Can somebody for the love of god please help me get to the bottom of this error message?! This sporadically pops up and shuts off my AC and my coolant temp reads “XXX”. I’ve already replaced the coolant temp sensor so I know that’s not the issue. I am running a 160 degree thermostat that was changed over a year ago. It was a different size than the 180 tstat that I replaced which I thought was odd but it didn’t give me any issues for the first year it was installed. But maybe it’s defective and getting stuck? Is that the route I should go next, replace the thermostat? Any other suggestions? Thanks so much in advance for any help.
Hey I think I know you! I doubt the thermostat will help, sounds like you may have something up in the harness if its not reading the sensor. I'd start there and check your voltage at the sensor. Does the car seem like its getting hot or just like its not reading? I'm guessing when it drops signal the car assumes its overheating. Make sure you have voltage where it needs to be. I cant recall offhand if its a 2 wire or a 3 wire on an ls3, i think its a 2 wire.
Hey I think I know you! I doubt the thermostat will help, sounds like you may have something up in the harness if its not reading the sensor. I'd start there and check your voltage at the sensor. Does the car seem like its getting hot or just like its not reading? I'm guessing when it drops signal the car assumes its overheating. Make sure you have voltage where it needs to be. I cant recall offhand if its a 2 wire or a 3 wire on an ls3, i think its a 2 wire.
What’s up Andy! Appreciate the insight, I’ll have to check it out.
That is the exact same problem I had with my 2011 GS.
1. Hot Engine showing on the DIC
2. A/C Off showing on the DIC
3. Coolant Temp gauge not reading (needle setting on 100 degrees)
I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the inlet air temp sensor ... No fix
Unhooked the wire connector at the radiator fan motor. The contacts inside the electrical connector were all burned up ... Removed the connector and just hard-wired the wires together.
Everything back to normal.
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This is not a photo of my connector, but mine looked just like this:
Oh ... And a big thumbs up to forum member 'C5 Diag' for coming over to my house and helping me with this problem. He even removed the burned up connector and re-wired it for me.
This POS connector just can't handle the electrical load the fan motor demands when operating at high speed.
Others here have also had the same problem with there C6.
Oh ... And a big thumbs up to forum member 'C5 Diag' for coming over to my house and helping me with this problem. He even removed the burned up connector and re-wired it for me.
This POS connector just can't handle the electrical load the fan motor demands when operating at high speed.
Others here have also had the same problem with there C6.
I live in Georgia and my fan is on a lot in the summer. No problems with my connector but I'm going to check mine out before
a problem arises. This is why I read these posts.Prevention is the key!
That is the exact same problem I had with my 2011 GS.
1. Hot Engine showing on the DIC
2. A/C Off showing on the DIC
3. Coolant Temp gauge not reading (needle setting on 100 degrees)
I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the inlet air temp sensor ... No fix
Unhooked the wire connector at the radiator fan motor. The contacts inside the electrical connector were all burned up ... Removed the connector and just hard-wired the wires together.
Everything back to normal.
_________________________________
This is not a photo of my connector, but mine looked just like this:
Thanks dude I’d be willing to bet that’s the same problem I’m having. Was yours sporadic though? Because it will go away for awhile then come back. Wondering if my connector is semi burned up but still making connection occasionally. I’ll have to check it out and see. Thank you!
I had a similar problem using a cheap *** Mr. Gasket 160* stat. In my case, I think the stat opened too soon and too wide creating a coolant temp drop that the PCM didn't like. I changed out the stat to one I found on Lingenfelter's site and never had another problem.
Are you getting the engine to operating temperature before driving?
When it happens, how quickly (in terms of distance) does it happen?
I was having the same issue. Turned out the engine wasn't getting to 160 degrees within the proper time so the pcm believes there's a problem with the sending unit. C5 Diag can explain what I'm talking about much more technically. The fix for me was to let the car warm up before driving. Overall you should let the engine come up to operating temperature before driving anyway.
Just my .02
Overall you should let the engine come up to operating temperature before driving anyway.
Others will say that you should not let the car idle after cold starting ... They say you should drive it as soon as you start (especially in cold weather)
Others will say that you should not let the car idle after cold starting ... They say you should drive it as soon as you start (especially in cold weather)
Only problem with that is premature engine wear.
Even GM says to let the car come up to operating temperature before driving.
How long had the engine been running when you got that message? What was the ambient temperature when you started it? The analog dash gauge looks to be pegged at the bottom @ 100°. And you say the DIC would show coolant temps as XXX at the same time? My LS3 warms up fairly quickly and even on a 40°F day, I’m pretty sure the gauge would be off the lower peg in a couple of minutes. Shouldn’t the DIC display and gauge be tied to the same input data? And you just replaced the coolant temp sensor? Kinda sounds like a wiring issue somehow.
Are you getting the engine to operating temperature before driving?
When it happens, how quickly (in terms of distance) does it happen?
I was having the same issue. Turned out the engine wasn't getting to 160 degrees within the proper time so the pcm believes there's a problem with the sending unit. C5 Diag can explain what I'm talking about much more technically. The fix for me was to let the car warm up before driving. Overall you should let the engine come up to operating temperature before driving anyway.
Just my .02
I just let it idle for a couple minutes most times before driving. I just don’t get on it hard until oil temps are at least 150+. The problem pops up usually within ten minutes of driving, not sure how many miles. It’s so sporadic.
How long had the engine been running when you got that message? What was the ambient temperature when you started it? The analog dash gauge looks to be pegged at the bottom @ 100°. And you say the DIC would show coolant temps as XXX at the same time? My LS3 warms up fairly quickly and even on a 40°F day, I’m pretty sure the gauge would be off the lower peg in a couple of minutes. Shouldn’t the DIC display and gauge be tied to the same input data? And you just replaced the coolant temp sensor? Kinda sounds like a wiring issue somehow.
it was like 64 degrees outside when I started it. Yes the coolant temp with read “xxx” and the analog gauge stays pegged at 100 the whole time. I’m thinking it’s gotta be a wiring issue as well. Joy, I hate electrical lol.
I had a similar problem using a cheap *** Mr. Gasket 160* stat. In my case, I think the stat opened too soon and too wide creating a coolant temp drop that the PCM didn't like. I changed out the stat to one I found on Lingenfelter's site and never had another problem.
If I can’t find any burnt up wires or issues with the electrical I think I’m gonna get another tstat and see if that’s my issue. Thanks man.
it was like 64 degrees outside when I started it. Yes the coolant temp with read “xxx” and the analog gauge stays pegged at 100 the whole time. I’m thinking it’s gotta be a wiring issue as well. Joy, I hate electrical lol.
Did you check the connector to the MAF sensor as I suggested above? I know that it would seem to be completely unrelated, but in that post, it turned out to be the problem with the identical symptoms you described.
Please help
