Okay now another issue or concern I also have haha…. Anyways my car is 6spd Manual so this is concerning. When coming to a stop and I leave the car in neutral and I’m slowly coming to a complete stop my rpm will start to rise even if my car is in neutral. It’ll rev up to 1 PRM or even to about 2RPM automatically. If the car slowly starts to roll forward as well it does the same thing the RPMS rises and I have to step on the clutch to make it stop. Kind of tired of pushing in the clutch EVERY TIME when I come to a complete stop. So if anyone know what a potential fix or knows what the issue could be please don’t be shy and help your boy out! As always suggestions and ideas are always appreciated. Thank you in advance again!!!!

I will try to attach a video to show a better example of what I mean hopefully it’s able to be shown !

 

Due to fly-by-wire used in modern Corvette.
Unlike immediate response w/ mechanical linkage.

W/in a few seconds it returns to idle?

 

yeah after a few seconds of revving it’ll return to normal idle, any ideas?

 

If you are downshifting as you're slowing and then when slowed enough keep the clutch in with the car in first do the rpms still rev up?

 

No but if I’m in low RPM in like a low gear it’ll kinda start to like jolt almost like a cam type of thing. Only happens when I’m in neutral

 

Stock? Tune?

 

It's not possible to be in a gear when you're in neutral.
I don't think I understand what you're trying to describe.

 

currently stock but seems like previous owner had headers and most likely a tune, car came with MGW short shifter and drilled and slotted brakes

 

if I’m reading your other question correctly, no when I press the clutch the revving doesn’t happen but if I’m in neutral and only using my brakes then yes the revving will happen. Now for when I’m in gear the car doesn’t rev by itself but like I said it’ll like jolt back and forth like if I’m trying not to stall out. Hopefully this helps

 

Probably the tune then. My old Z06 did this and was told it was the tune keeping it from stalling. It was annoying tho.

 

would I have to get the CPU flashed?? To get rid of it or should I just leave it like that til I get tuned

 

It's not exactly flashing the CPU. Think of it as a program loaded into the car. Someone with the right tool can load whatever program you like, including a stock tune. But if your current tune is not stock there is likely a reason someone changed it. Headers or other modifications. A tuner will look at how the car is performing, fuel trims, sensor readings, etc. They will use that information to create the "tune" they think will work best, then load that into your car.

 

oooo okay I see what you mean, I will definitely try to get that looked at then. Thank you so much

 

Funny - this is what mine does as well, only it happens on start up and will happen with the clutch pressed while coming to a stop. It eventually settles down mostly.
I bought mine with headers and de-catted x pipe and in pretty rough condition. Not sure what else was done (doesn't sound cammed?) but my shop is almost positive there's a tune in it that isn't correct. I'm just trying to find the time to get it in there and on the dyno for a look-see.

 

Sounds like your feet are too big and you're pressing both the brake AND the gas at the same time lol

Actually, are you sure you aren't doing that?

 

Yeah HAHA I’m sure I’m not. Happens even if the car slowly starts to roll by itself the car will slowly rev by itself

 

I had the same issue, however I did do some detective work, I have nearly cleared the issue. My LS7 powered 2007 Base with an A & A S/C, Belanger Custom Tri-Y Headers, High Flow Cats, ported and polished cathedral heads, was tuned with the same "wandering idle" that would show up when at a stop. It would rev from the "resting rpm" of 750 (tuned to that rpm), and on its own, would rev up to 1,500 rpm, then back down to 1,000 then eventually after about 5-10 seconds would "settle" at 750. Then it threw the P0101 and P0121 codes. I erased the codes and after driving 20-25 miles the CEL came on, and the same codes returned. I decided to just change the accelerator pedal AND the MAF sensor. After changing them, I drove the car to a cruise-in last night (about 10 miles from my house) and on the way the CEL went off, and as I drove the car, the "at rest" idle is now settled down to the 750rpm, with only an occasional "wandering" to 900-1,000 rpm for a few seconds, but then settles back to the tune set of 750rpm. That was my ordeal. Hope this might help you get the bottom of your "wandering idle!"