Hello this is my first post here, so I have a 2005 c6. I've had the car just over a year and it's currently full bolt ons. I've been running into an issue for a while now where if I push the car past ~ 5k rpms in any gear the rear end will throw itself to the right whilst a pop up on my dash read "Traction System Active". It corrects itself fairly quickly and i've never truly spun out from this but i'm unable to push the car to its limits without this happening which is fairly scary. Once the car corrects itself the traction control light comes on followed by "Service Traction system". After the car is turned back off and on again this is now gone until it happens again.

For some context with this issue, i've had the "Service Column Lock" since I got the car. It only comes on about 20% of the time when I start the car. I'm wondering if this has anything to do with the traction system and could be causing this to happen? I've seen the column lock bypass and am looking to order it if it may fix the issue.

One other thing that i've asked some guys about and everyone is scratching their heads about it as well as myself. This traction issue has only occurred when ive ran X-pipe dumps on the car/my SLP loudmouth exhaust. I ran zo6 NPPs for 3-4 months and didn't have this issue occur a single time.

If anyone can point me in the right direction or has had this issue before, any help would be appreciated. I'm new to corvettes as a whole i've read that they have grounding/electrical issues so i'm wondering if that could be the issue but that doesn't explain why it only happens when i'm not running a bulky muffler in the rear.

 

Time to put some seat time in and learn how to feather the throttle.

 

Traction control is kicking it to stop the wheels from spinning, and doing it job since you have Tc on still. If you deactivate TC, then back tires do start to spin uncontrolled, then going to end up with wheel hop, rear tire is going to get a huge bite, and differential is going to come apart on the spot. So solution to the problem, is you need rear tires able to hold grip for the amount of instant HP being put down. Short of this, then can lower the TM amounts, so rear tires will hold since it limiting the amount of instant horsepower/torque to the ground, but does not effect top end speeds where the motor has a longer time to ramp up what the motor can put out max HP instead.

As for if problem is only happening with different exhaust system in play, pull the body level codes to see what wheel speed sensor hub connector (or other connector) may be causing the problems. Hence problem may a AH one instead,


As for service column lock, need to do the TSB to flash out the system from the car. GM not longer has the repair parts, so they came with the TSB to solve the problem.
TSB (#18-NA-346, issued Nov 14, 2018)

 

"Traction System Active" comes on when you have traction control turned on and the tires start to break loose from too much throttle and not enough traction. It cuts power to the engine so the tires have an opportunity to get grip again. So your options are to get stickier tires or, as BurntOut said, learn to feather the throttle. The car won't let you take it to its limits with the full nannies turned on. They're designed to keep inexperienced drivers from completely screwing themselves. You also have a feature called Active Handling, which will modulate the brakes to help straighten the car out should it try to get sideways. You can limit the traction control for Competitive Driving mode by holding down the traction control button for, I believe, 5 seconds until "Competitive Driving Mode" shows up in the Driver's Information Center (DIC). That will keep Active Handling enabled, but allow the rear tires to slip more before cutting power (so you can drift in a turn, for instance).

Of course, you can completely disable the traction control by pressing that same button on the center console, but folks tend to learn REAL quick why those safeguards are there in the first place. So be careful. Even in stock form, these cars can get away from you.

Stay safe.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Even when TC/SC are fully disabled (holding down traction button for 10 seconds) the problem still occurs and after it happens the service traction system still comes on as well as the traction control after flashing.

I bought a drag pack a while back just because i got a good deal on it and still had the same issue on a 295/50/17 MT Street R

I'm on 295/35 pilot sport 4s currently and as you guys mentioned seat time could be the issue. The car just dyno'd at exactly 400 on a Dynojet. The only thing i'm not understanding with this point would be that from what I do know the tires should be spinning at much lower speed? I can dump the clutch in first and grip with no issues as long as the weather is warm, grips into 2nd and soon as it hits the top end of 2nd/3rd gear is when the issue occurs. Again, i could be wrong and this genuinely could be a driver error but I feel like i'd lose traction on the lower end too.

 

Driver error it is. Driving a light and moderately high HP car on the street takes patience.

 

Understood, when it does lose traction, could it just be a bad sensor somewhere causing the "Service traction system" light?

 

Could rear wheels possibly have swapped side to side during work throwing off tpms position.
Try tpms reset, I’ve had a similar experience.

 

Im gonna attempt to get in on video tomorrow afternoon and link it here. As inexperienced as I am with the platform i'm familiar enough to feel that it's a computer issue. I'll link the video when i get it and would love to hear feedback

 

The C6 Vette will oversteer easily and quickly.
Do Not stand on the throttle with the front wheels not pointed straight ahead.
If you stand on the throttle with the front wheels slightly turned you will rotate the car into a 180 degree rotation.
Soft throttle on corner exit.

 

not if your ***** are big enough:

 

You could try it with the steering wheel sensor unplugged that should disable any of the controls coming on.

 

Mine used to kick out to the side. It was a combination of shitty ancient run flat tires and a broken height adjuster. I replaced the adjuster and got a good alignment and some sticky 200TW summer tires and the car hooks and books at 500whp.

 

I can’t turn off my traction control, button issue, switch issue, harness issue? the “fishtail” dash alert stays on. The above quote states unplugging the steering wheel sensor defeats TC, is this true, where is the plug, how to disconnect it and what other controls will be disabled? Thanks

 

There is something wrong with your car, regardless of everybody's criticism. "Service Traction System" indicates a fault. There will be DTCs stored in the EBCM (the ABS computer).

Your next step is to retrieve the DTCs. This will require a GM ABS-aware scan tool. A cheapo generic tool will not see them. You can use a Tech 2, or its official replacements, or a higher-end Autel or Snap-On or whatever. You need to retrieve the DTCs to find out why the EBCM turned on the service light. Could be a wheel speed sensor. Could be an accelerometer. Could be a lot of things.

Watch your front/rear tire diameter ratio. If you change it too far from stock, the computer will think a wheel is spinning.

 

It all comes down to "Do you have any idea what the result of standing on the throttle with cornering ?"

 

Physics is a bitch

 

295 50 17 is a 28.6" diameter tire and would definitely upset the TC system unless you had a big enough front setup. Which can be hard to fit.

 

Its never happened while cornering. I explained the issue only happens in a straight line at the very top of 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. No idea where any of you are seeing it happens on corners.

Installed a column lock byass and reset all my TPMS this week and havent had the issue since.
"Service column lock" still appears after installing a module

 

If you dont want to pull codes and see if a sensor is misbehaving, borrow some stock size wheels from someone local and see if you have the same problem.