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My 05, with 122,000+ miles, had a dead battery the other day. The battery is only a year old and the car was in reverse and emergency brake applied. Charged the battery and everything seems to be working fine, except now the radio does not turn off when the ignition is turned off and the door opened. I have to turn off the radio with it's power button. Could the starter button be causing this? It seems to be working fine otherwise.
My 05, M6, 27k, same issue, battery is about 2.5 years old. I have been working on it for months. My car is sitting in my garage as I write this, unable to turn over even though it has been on a tender. Battery reads just over 12 volts. There are times the car can sit for two weeks and start right up, then there are times the battery is flat after 2-3 days….so frustrating. Start reading the posts on this issue, there are plenty. I found with my research that there are about a million different reasons this could be happening. I will be buying a new battery next week. If you haven’t got an ammeter I would go and get one, and learn how to use it, and start troubleshooting for parasitic draw. Good luck you are not alone!.
Is it an aftermarket stereo and amp? If so, are you using the PAC Module?
If factory and a Bose?
Wiring harness of the stereo has a Yellow wire for constant 12vdc (Hot at all times) for stereo memory, clock, etc. While the Red wire powers stereo On/Off and only has power when the stereo is On.
If all the other RAP (Retained Accessory Power) features work and turn off after a door is opened....
From my experience just installing an aftermarket stereo, I'd say if you have a (Bose / Aftermarket) amp that would be the most likely culprit. The amp gets a "Remote On Input / Enable" signal
Normally, when the car is turned off a countdown timer starts, or when a door is opened, whichever is first turns the RAP off. Something (in the wiring ?) is keeping the stereo powered on after all other RAP components are powering down
Is it an aftermarket stereo and amp? If so, are you using the PAC Module?
If factory and a Bose?
Wiring harness of the stereo has a Yellow wire for constant 12vdc (Hot at all times) for stereo memory, clock, etc. While the Red wire powers stereo On/Off and only has power when the stereo is On.
If all the other RAP (Retained Accessory Power) features work and turn off after a door is opened....
From my experience just installing an aftermarket stereo, I'd say if you have a (Bose / Aftermarket) amp that would be the most likely culprit. The amp gets a "Remote On Input / Enable" signal
Normally, when the car is turned off a countdown timer starts, or when a door is opened, whichever is first turns the RAP off. Something (in the wiring ?) is keeping the stereo powered on after all other RAP components are powering down
It is an after market unit, but has been in the car for 3 years with no problem. Up until the problem with the battery this time it would shut off when the ignition was off and the door opened.
It is an after market unit, but has been in the car for 3 years with no problem. Up until the problem with the battery this time it would shut off when the ignition was off and the door opened.
Aftermarket radio adapters are notorious for flaking out. Yours may be on the blink, which could be the cause of your battery going dead in the first place.
First thing I’d recommend doing is to get a new battery, once they’re fully discharged they’re pretty much toast. Once you do that do some tests to determine where you have a parasitic draw and address accordingly. I’m thinking also that doing a hard reset will address your radio issues which can be done by disconnecting your battery for about 10 min. then reconnecting it will reset everything.
Was fighting a Parasitic draw the first months i got the Vette.
Turned out it was the glove compartment light. The lid is closed, and still there is too much play on the lid>switch gap.
One night i was walking to the Vette to get some things out of the trunk and just before i released the trunk i saw the light burning in the glove compartment.
Pushing it up a little did activate the kill switch. With driving it became looser and that made the hard to find draw for me.
I glued a plastic piece of about 1/8 inch and it was solved!
More info might help. What does it do/not do when it does start? Does it crank / not crank?, when key/button pushed one click/several clicks? Can you turn on lights? ETC. What it actually does can make a HUGH difference in where to at least start looking. Draw could be a place to look but usually (not always) a short of any kind does not come and go! Help us help you!!
First thing I’d recommend doing is to get a new battery, once they’re fully discharged they’re pretty much toast. Once you do that do some tests to determine where you have a parasitic draw and address accordingly. I’m thinking also that doing a hard reset will address your radio issues which can be done by disconnecting your battery for about 10 min. then reconnecting it will reset everything.
Sould have thought about "hard reset" myself. that worked. Thanks.
Battery Problem
Good deal, glad to hear it worked for you.