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You have have around 2.5 volts on pin 6 to ground and 14 to ground...NOT across 6 and 14...the car should start in slot and if not may be bad RCDLR but can't diagnose this for you over the internet...the class 2 or low speed bus would be modules like HVAC, IPC, RCDLR and others...may be best to send the car to an auto electric shop in your area...they may be better suited to diagnose this. ..below is wiring for High Speed and Class 2...don't feel bad...maybe 1 in a 1000 techs can diagnose a communication issue.
You have have around 2.5 volts on pin 6 to ground and 14 to ground...NOT across 6 and 14...the car should start in slot and if not may be bad RCDLR but can't diagnose this for you over the internet...the class 2 or low speed bus would be modules like HVAC, IPC, RCDLR and others...may be best to send the car to an auto electric shop in your area...they may be better suited to diagnose this. ..below is wiring for High Speed and Class 2...don't feel bad...maybe 1 in a 1000 techs can diagnose a communication issue.
Hey @Dano523 were you able to track down which led bulbs were causing the communication issue with the rcdlr?
I have bought a lot of led lights but I bought them from @VetteLights . I have it installed them as I’m still working on the engine but I just want to make sure that I don’t have an rcdlr communication issue when I go to put them in. I bought headlights, fog lights, side markers, brake lights and just about every interior led bulb they sell.
Hey @Dano523 were you able to track down which led bulbs were causing the communication issue with the rcdlr?
I have bought a lot of led lights but I bought them from @VetteLights . I have it installed them as I’m still working on the engine but I just want to make sure that I don’t have an rcdlr communication issue when I go to put them in. I bought headlights, fog lights, side markers, brake lights and just about every interior led bulb they sell.
I had an issue where the fob wouldn’t be recognized when it was outside in the freezing cold overnight. I’d have to get in with the key in the trunk and use the glove box to start the car. I think my issue was the map light LEDs as they didn’t have enough resistance to fully turn off. They would remain super dim. Mine were from diode dynamics so I’m not sure how different the ones you have are. I switched back to a standard sylvania bulb and haven’t had any issues since. Headlights, side markers, tail lights and the license plate LEDs have been a non issue.
Hey @Dano523 were you able to track down which led bulbs were causing the communication issue with the rcdlr?
I have bought a lot of led lights but I bought them from @VetteLights . I have it installed them as I’m still working on the engine but I just want to make sure that I don’t have an rcdlr communication issue when I go to put them in. I bought headlights, fog lights, side markers, brake lights and just about every interior led bulb they sell.
Its kind of luck of the draw, if the LEDs are going to put out enough RF noise themselves, to not only block the Fobs, but the TPMS's as well.
Myself, the charging system does not need a reduction in power draw, so if a bulb or two needs to be replace, then best to just replace them with the same Incandescent bulb that burnt out. Plus on the blinker bulbs, does not put you down the rabbit hole of having to install resistors to stop the hyper flash with the LED bulbs as a second problem as well.
