Trying to replace my 2005 RCDLR module. I have the no fob detected message. The funny part is I can give a little tap on the dash and it starts every time. I have repined my plugs. Still have the same issue.
i tried today to program and different rcdlr but I get it’s locked. I tried the removal of the #11 fuse to reset but still got the locked message on the tech 2.
Any suggestions on how to get the different module programmed. I tried to message Dano523 but it wouldn’t let me message him.
thanks in advance for any help.
i do have a tech 2 and two extra rcdlr modules currently.

 

 

So yes when I get to and select step 3, it then tells me the module is locked when I follow the next promo to try to sync the new module. That’s where I get stuck at.

 

Pull RCDLR, pull board out of module box, and re-solder the header pins to board solder joints, since one or more is a cold solder joint, and don't forget to give both connector and pins a good douching with contact cleaner. This solves the problem, and don't have to set up another RCDLR to the car.

This board was littered with cold solder joints that needed to be repaired, while just help another opt that board was fine, but one of the head pin to connectors had a corroded pin that was causing the problems isntead.





Second way to bypass the RCDLR not being set into relearn mode to begin with on a used unit so you can press the ACC button to put it into relearn mode to program the fobs in, uses the old RCDLR to get car into acc mode, hot swap the replacement module in, and while car is still in ACC mode still, use tech2 to learn in the new fobs, and tmps next. From here with fobs programmed in, can put the car into ACC mode and just flash the module that way isntead.
Note, here, when doing it this way, will start with erase all fobs, then use which slot I want to program in each fob back into the car.

As for flashing the RCDLR in with car in off mode, are you using TDS, or tis2000.
Hence always start with replace and flash (not just firmware update when you start into sps), and if you run into used RCDLR fighting you on the flash, don't go into RCDLR module in the list, but use the security module below it in the list to flash and put the RCDLR into relearn mode instead (make sure to check the box to put module into relearn mode.
If using tds for non export while putting RCDLR into relearn mode at flash, first ACC button will be asking for fob in slot in DIC, while if you use TIS2000 instead, going to have to play the acc button push each time, as the DIC does 10 min count downs, Acc button push within a min to start the next 10min count down, and so on until the car has done the three count downs for 30 mins, before you get the put fob in slot to start the programming of fobs.

And remember when programing fobs in, you end the fob programming by pushing the lock and unlock on the last fob, and not by taking the car out of ACC mode. Myself, just get the first fob programed in, press the lock and unlock bottom on the fob to end the fob learn this way, the put the car into ACC mode, to use Tech2win to program the last of the fobs in instead.

 

Ok awesome. I’ll give it a try again with these applications. I just have the Tech 2 knockoff.
thanks.

 

This is my problem lol. My old unit and new used unit both do this. My old unit takes forever to get into acc mode (no fobs, no tpms, randomly clicks and a good 15 minutes of pushing the start stop button to get the key to do something even with it in the slot.), I switch modules when I can get it to happen, but from there, I cant get the new rcdlr to do anything (using a tech 2) Cant relearn or install a new or get the keyfobs workaround to work.

 

Update, and his problem all this time with RCDLR, was LED builds that where putting out RF noise and blocking the signal fobs.
He Pulled the led bulbs and car is back to normal again.

 

Yep! Absolutely amazed that this was the issue after HOURS and $$ trying to fix a problem I sort of caused. Person I got the car from had purple LEDs, so I changed them out to bright white... who woulda thunk (other than Dano)????

Dano is an awesome person. Even called me to walk me thru some other issues with c6 vettes and what to do. Much appreciated!!

 

Can you give a little more info on the LED bulbs that were causing the interference? Were the LEDs in the under dash lights or dome lights? I thought all lights were off until the fob signal was detected which woke everything up.

 

Hey Jeremy did you ever get your issue resolved? I am having the same issue with my car, I replaced the rcdlr and tried to reprogram it to the car using a knockoff tech2 and it keeps saying its locked. If I don't clear the codes from the dtc the tech2 says its unable to communicate with the ecm when I try to program the new rcdlr, once I clear the codes then I have to reset the tech2 then it allows me to read the rcdlr but it says that the rcdlr is locked

 

Over the decade (+) that I have been here, this forum has always been comprised of fellow enthusiast that are always willing to freely share their expertise, knowledge, and experience. I am glad you got it sorted and to hear it was a fellow forum member who assisted.

 

Since this old thread got revived. What LED brand and location of LED was causing the problem?

I bought a ton of LED’s from Vette Lights, hope his LEDs don’t cause any issues.

 

I've replaced all mine with vettelights and not a single issue

 

sweet


thank you

 

So, by doing things this way, I don’t need TIS2000?

 

So im working on a c6z and am getting the no fob detected message. I also get no clicks from the rcdlr. I have unplugged all lights and radio to make sure there's no interference, also unbolted the rcdlr from the bracket and put the key directly on top. Still nothing. Thing is, it was working fine before I disconnected the battery to do some other modifications. The doors were not opening before though. But it would start no problem. I was gonna go down the replacement of the unit rabbit hole but I cant even get the car to accessory mode. Is there a way to program a new one without being able to get it into accessory mode? Or a way to test if the relays are bad? I really need to get this car sorted and out of my shop. Thanks!

Edit: i do not have a tech 2 yet but plan to get one if that will help solve this. Considering I work on a lot of vettes it wouldn't be bad to have.

 

If you are a shop owner are you familiar with the initial steps to see if you have possibly a communication issue...it is always a good idea we know what model year...do you have some kind of factory level scan tool as you work on a lot of Corvettes ??...what other work has been done ??...you said "other mods".

 

I am not the shop owner, but am one of the lead techs. We have a basic launch obd tool but not a dealer level one yet. We are going to be getting one soon. What would be the initial steps you mentioned? I may have went through them but not 100% sure. I havent ran into this issue before. This car is a 08 z06. Its a time attack car. I installed a cartek kill switch which i have done multiple times on these cars with no problems other than an occasional bcm issue on early year cars. It has some engine modifications but it was in for a driveline service and kill switch setup. Torque tube, slave cylinder, tilton master cylinder, clutch, etc. Has a rear trunk latch delete with quiklatches. Previously the doors would not open electronically and would have to be opened manually from the floor or trunk. However car would still start. After battery was disconnected to install kill switch, it was left on a battery tender to keep charge. Once the wiring was done and battery reconnected I got the no fob detected. No accessory or anything. I removed the rcdlr unit and inspected the solder joints and didnt see any cracking or anything however im not super familiar with circuit boards. There is no clicking coming from the relays like there normally would be when you get in and press the button. I also tried a new battery in the key and the glove box slot. Not sure where to go from here.

 

So can you Autel communicate with all modules ??...if you don't have accy mode you can still enter the VIN manually with the ignition off...if so can you communicate with the RCDLR ??...if not the first step is to check the powers and grounds...I'm sure your shop uses Alldata or Mitchell...so even with the FOB in the backup slot will the car start ??...for Immobilizer function the BCM and RCDLR must communicate and for the car to start the ECM has to communicate also...if you don't hear the RCDLR "click" it may be bad or the class 2 bus may be corrupted...as far as first steps for a communication issue with the battery disconnected see if you see 60 ohms with your ohm meter connected between pins 6 and 14 on the DLC...between pin 2 (class 2 bus) and ground you should see about 4500 ohms...with the battery connected you should see 2.5 volts on pin 6 and also on pin 14 (CAN bus bias voltage)...you don't need a Tech 2...any decent bidirectional scan tool that can read all modules is desired...your shop SHOULD be using a labscope to diagnose your cars...if you don't you will only be guessing in diagnosing your cars.

 

So the scan tool i have is not bidirectional, and also wont communicate with ign off. I get 60ohms between pin 6 and 14. But not 2.5 v when battery is connected. Also we do not have all data unfortunately. We primarily work on more race focused cars and dont typically have to do much diag like this. Also that is correct, with key in the backup slot it still says no fob detected and no start. Forgive me for my ignorance as im still new to this but what is the class 2 bus exactly? Thanks for the help so far!