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I've watched a few of these. I somewhat did this but instead of a pump sprayer i just used a clear tube, poured oil in the tube then forced it through with compressed air. Took about ½ a quart but I didn't get any oil out of the push rods cuz I didn't rotate the crank while I was doing it. My question is will it do any damage if I just crank no start to build oil pressure then install plugs and wires to start? The assembly lube they used to build the engine should be sufficient for the few seconds it doesn't have oil pressure? My thought it yes but just want to make sure. I also drizzled oil over the rocker arms, push rods & valve springs so they are lubed for the first start.
Well got her all back together. Oil pressure is good. Coolant good. Everything is good except after she warms up it goes into limp mode "engine power reduced". I do have a cel & my scanner for some reason will not read it. Says enhanced manufacturer dtc. Bought a new bi directional scanner and should be here today so hopefully whatever is throwing it into limp mode is a simple fix. I've watched a few videos on YouTube. Says it could be due to low battery voltage, check the ground wires to the block, throttle body could have issues but I started her up for the first time & ran it at 1800rpms for 15 minutes like the builder said to do. Ran fine the whole time. Curious to see what three cel is all about. Double checked all my sensors & everything is good. I'll check back in after I get her scanned. Anything else I should consider looking into?
Any idea what the root cause of this was? Engine completely stock?
not yet. I should be getting my new scanner today. I'm going to go over all my ground wires too. I had the block painted while it was rebuilt so I might not have good grounds. It's just weird that it will start just fine, run for a little bit then go into limp mode & run really rough like its missing but cel stays lit doesn't blink so i know I'm not misfiring. Also have 3/4 of fuel in the tank that's been sitting in there for 6 months. I didn't even think about putting fuel saver in there. I'll post once I get the scanner hooked up
Mine had a pronounced misfire when I test drove it before buying. Must've been old gas. I know it was sitting at the dealership for months as I watched it on Autotrader for a while to see the price drop until it bottomed out. Once I gave it a few doses of the old "Italian tune-up" it smoothed-out but catalytic converters were toast. I wouldn't recommend any of that before you get the codes read though and address it from there.
In the meantime it won't hurt to hit those grounding points one more time like you plan to do.
Scanned her before I went to work. Seems like my throttle body doesn't know what to do. When the cars on acc mode i press the gas pedal & the throttle opens 100% & vice-versa when I let it go. It runs fine until it warms up & I let off the throttle & let it idle for a few seconds. I didn't have enough time to mess with the scanner. It'll let me run diags & performance so I'll mess with it more after work. If anyone else has had these dtcs what did you do to fix the issue? Grounds? Plugs?
Ok guys really need some help here. Checked all my grounds & they are all good. Did a throttle relearn on the scanner & didn't help at all. When I clear the dtc it'll run fine for a few seconds but it'll go right back into limp mode & run really rough. When the car is in acc mode the pedal works just fine & opens the throttle body completely. Scanner shows it's working properly but the second I start her up it'll reduce engine power throw the code & ill have to shut her off. Strange thing is it will only start doing this after the car is warmed up. When the engine is cold it's perfectly fine it's only when it hits around 140°. I can't even take her out cuz it will go straight into limp mode. Any ideas on where to go from here would be greatly appreciated.
