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no but most aftermarket wheels are going to have the correct offset which is what I was implying.
Not exactly. You are ordering custom wheels with custom offsets and custom sizing.
My Forgestar wheels are OEM fit, because they are stock sizing without upsizing, and no request for custom (agressive) offset was requested/selected
should I go with longer lug bolts when using a spacer?
Spacer = yes in most cases, but no on really uses spacers.
Wheels adapters = no, because they bolt into the original studs and then use the new rotated studs that are pressed into the spacers
Spacer = yes in most cases, but no on really uses spacers.
Wheels adapters = no, because they bolt into the original studs and then use the new rotated studs that are pressed into the spacers
what are you bumping? Your thread was at the top of the page and you have 2 pages worth of unanimous answers.
I had asked kinda dumb question and couldnt delete.
I was concerned about torquing Spacer to Hub while it was in air, but for rear will use emergency brake and Fronts will put screw driver between Rotor to hold from spinning to torgue.
My stuff should be here by end of day so tomorrow install.
Did you get your Steering Wheel yet? If you have the Button's on both sides of OEM like mine what a pain in *** but doable to get out.
Not yet, it came in last night, i'll either mess with it tonight or this weekend. Luckily I have a spare wheel harness laying here from when i took the stock one appart so just gotta throw that in lol
so to add my .03, like some others, I found the stock 'stance' to be a bit 'meh'. I wanted something very subtle, not riced out and retaining the stock italian Speedlines, which I happen to like. I added thin 8mm spacers all round and find its just right, with stock size tires.
Further, I didn't want to negatively affect scrub radius, although frankly, I don't know how great an issue that may be with our suspension vs say a McPherson strut type design.
8mm isn't much and I don't feel it adds too much leverage on the wheel bearings either, although frankly mine aren't OE anyway (track use killed them).
The 8mm spacers are just shims (not bolt on!) and thin enough to still allow the flange for the hub to protrude a little, to help with hub centricity, and mounting wheels.
To retain full thread engagement on the stock wheel studs, I use 'extended thread' lug nuts instead of extended wheel studs.The extra .30 length is perfect in that respect. https://shop.wheelacc.com/41138et-p7418.aspx
My track wheels, are wider of course, 18x11 front (315/30) and 18x12.5 (335/30), thereby filling out the fenders much more, but those are made with the correct offset...no spacers...withe object being no fender or liner contact at full suspension travel.
Also, using the same extended lug nuts (yes, I do realize open nuts are preferred for track), retains even greater than OE length engagement for this application, thereby adding additional strength without having to resort to extended wheel studs (which would look crappy with my street wheels.
I did at one point try a C7 Z06 (C6 ZR1/Z07) size setup as track wheels...but it was an awful experiment. It added a lot of weight at each corner. Moreover, this was not only unsprung weight, but rotating mass as well. Terrible downgrade performancewise. And, track tires in those sizes were prohibitively expensive. I guess I could have retained them for a street setup, but had a willing buyer and already had my OE speedlines, with tires for street, and still needed a track wheel setup...so was happy to let them go. They sure weren't the 'hot setup', but they did 'look' ok though...
Anyway...just thought to share my setup(s) experience
so to add my .03, like some others, I found the stock 'stance' to be a bit 'meh'. I wanted something very subtle, not riced out and retaining the stock italian Speedlines, which I happen to like. I added thin 8mm spacers all round and find its just right, with stock size tires.
Further, I didn't want to negatively affect scrub radius, although frankly, I don't know how great an issue that may be with our suspension vs say a McPherson strut type design.
8mm isn't much and I don't feel it adds too much leverage on the wheel bearings either, although frankly mine aren't OE anyway (track use killed them).
The 8mm spacers are just shims (not bolt on!) and thin enough to still allow the flange for the hub to protrude a little, to help with hub centricity, and mounting wheels.
To retain full thread engagement on the stock wheel studs, I use 'extended thread' lug nuts instead of extended wheel studs.The extra .30 length is perfect in that respect. https://shop.wheelacc.com/41138et-p7418.aspx
My track wheels, are wider of course, 18x11 front (315/30) and 18x12.5 (335/30), thereby filling out the fenders much more, but those are made with the correct offset...no spacers...withe object being no fender or liner contact at full suspension travel.
Also, using the same extended lug nuts (yes, I do realize open nuts are preferred for track), retains even greater than OE length engagement for this application, thereby adding additional strength without having to resort to extended wheel studs (which would look crappy with my street wheels.
I did at one point try a C7 Z06 (C6 ZR1/Z07) size setup as track wheels...but it was an awful experiment. It added a lot of weight at each corner. Moreover, this was not only unsprung weight, but rotating mass as well. Terrible downgrade performancewise. And, track tires in those sizes were prohibitively expensive. I guess I could have retained them for a street setup, but had a willing buyer and already had my OE speedlines, with tires for street, and still needed a track wheel setup...so was happy to let them go. They sure weren't the 'hot setup', but they did 'look' ok though...
Anyway...just thought to share my setup(s) experience
THANK YOU for the info. A lot to learn. I’m at a point where I’m not sure what to do first… oh and my budget isn’t getting any bigger. 😂
I dont ever really remember mine doing it stock either, but it def doesn't do it now with the spacers and coilovers. My C5 was notorious for it
I do have brand new Michelin runflats on the car. It could be that is why I feel something, though admittedly is very minor and only when the wheel is turned all the way in either direction. Older tires, or non-run-flat tires might not feel the condition.
I do have brand new Michelin runflats on the car. It could be that is why I feel something, though admittedly is very minor and only when the wheel is turned all the way in either direction. Older tires, or non-run-flat tires might not feel the condition.
oh yeah run flats will for sure scrub, no sidewall give in them. I know runflat is a deal breaker for some but the performance difference in going from a runflat to something like a regular Michalin 4s or a Cup is night and day. Getting rid of the run flats were the first thing i did when i bought mine and I've never looked back. My thought was if I catch a flat then so be it, cross that bridge when i get to it.
