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I am planning on changing the head unit in the C6 and going to replace a cigarette lighter with a USB port that plugs into the back of the new head unit. This will leave the unused power supply under the console. I found a harness that connects to the cigarette lighter power supply but it has both male and female connectors, I only want the female connector. I do not know if there is a generic name for the plug to search for a harness with the female connector only or I will just make one but don't know what to call it. I want to run a USB power back in the trunk space.
Does anyone know?
For your intended usage I don't see the point of keeping the connector(s). The connector normally allows for the removal of the shifter/dash bezel but this will no longer be connected to it. Cut off the connector and solder your new wires on.
I am planning on changing the head unit in the C6 and going to replace a cigarette lighter with a USB port that plugs into the back of the new head unit. This will leave the unused power supply under the console. I found a harness that connects to the cigarette lighter power supply but it has both male and female connectors, I only want the female connector. I do not know if there is a generic name for the plug to search for a harness with the female connector only or I will just make one but don't know what to call it. I want to run a USB power back in the trunk space.
Does anyone know?
You're doing it right with a clean, reversible install instead of hacking up the harness.
The connector is part of Aptiv's Metri-Pack 280 product line. The housing p/n is 12176836 (grey), 12176446 (black), or 12176445 (cream). The terminal p/n will depend on your desired wire gauge, coating material, etc. Mouser has all of it.
You can find knockoffs on Amazon and elsewhere with a Google search for "automobile cigarette lighter wiring harness connector". They're usually more expensive than the real deal.
For simple connections like this you can also make your own pigtail with generic female spade connectors. Just make sure it's not going to contact anything and short circuit.
For your intended usage I don't see the point of keeping the connector(s). The connector normally allows for the removal of the shifter/dash bezel but this will no longer be connected to it. Cut off the connector and solder your new wires on.
You're doing it right with a clean, reversible install instead of hacking up the harness.
The connector is part of Aptiv's Metri-Pack 280 product line. The housing p/n is 12176836 (grey), 12176446 (black), or 12176445 (cream). The terminal p/n will depend on your desired wire gauge, coating material, etc. Mouser has all of it.
You can find knockoffs on Amazon and elsewhere with a Google search for "automobile cigarette lighter wiring harness connector". They're usually more expensive than the real deal.
This is the part I need from the Mouser website, 13897598. Looks like I got the gender mixed up. I am not real keen on electronics so I don't know what pins are needed to go inside the connector. The wires will crimp to the pins but don't know how to search for the pins. Your help would be appreciated.
This is the part I need from the Mouser website, 13897598. Looks like I got the gender mixed up. I am not real keen on electronics so I don't know what pins are needed to go inside the connector. The wires will crimp to the pins but don't know how to search for the pins. Your help would be appreciated.
If you click on the product series name "Metri-Pack 280", you can search all the parts in that product line. Look for male terminals available in quantity 1. Find one that accepts wires in your size range.
For example, part no. 12020116-L might work. According to the data sheet, it works with wires with a cross section between 1 mm² and 2 mm² (17 AWG to 14 AWG). If you're using wires in that range, you strip the insulation from the end, lay the wire in the terminal, crimp the conductor wings to the bare conductors, crimp the insulation wings to the insulation, and then insert the crimped terminal into the housing.
You won't have the thousand-dollar Aptiv special crimping tool, so you will need to use a generic tool (such as those made by Hozan or IWISS). This will require some trial-and-error, so buy 10 or 20 extra terminals. Making good crimps with an unsanctioned tool takes experimentation / practice.
If you're only doing this once and you have no interest in doing anything like it again, you may want to just buy the pre-made pigtail and make a wire splice to that.
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