Balancing complete kit
The PB1117SS has inner lip one side, C clip on the other side, to retain the inner hub to outer pulley, so you don't end up with wobble again.
On the ATI, outer pulley is bolted directly to inner hub, then harmonic ring goes with the two for the ride.
And is not really a harmonic balancer like on the old cars that help to balance the motor, but just a device to help to such up the different harmonics, since crank is balanced from the start on the LS motors: so harmonic dampener really in the end.
As for kit, new seal for crank case cover its going to go through, RTV to seal the slot in the new HB, new ARP bolt with red loctite (272), and don't forget to the get the HB install kit, so you don't try to use the bolt to draw the new HB on the crank snout, and strip the threads in the crank from it not grabbing enough threads.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/eM8AA...KiK/s-l960.jpg
Hence bolt is threaded all the way into the crank threads to use all of it threads in the channel, then nut is tightened to draw crank onto snout.
If you want to make your own, then all thread or long bolt that is M16 x 2.0, nut, and then thrush bearing and a few washers.
Rockauto may be your source for the other parts as shipping cost may be ok with a large order. Never seen all the parts in one kit. You can borrow a Chrysler puller, torque wrench and balancer installer from a parts store. May have to buy a flywheel locking tool.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
All the parts in Dayco, less pin kit, plus the two LS tools on Amazon is about 500 bucks.
Deduct $60 from that if you don't need AC belt and tensioner. And another $40 if you get a C2501 instead of PB1117SS.
Your budget-happy repair, if tensioners/idler are ok, would be PB1117N, bolt, belt, seal, two LS tools..... about $150.
Here is a write-up I did on mine with some install tips. Ignore the water pump and PS pump replacements I did.
Last edited by C6ToGo; Aug 14, 2025 at 04:21 PM.
The PB1117SS has inner lip one side, C clip on the other side, to retain the inner hub to outer pulley, so you don't end up with wobble again.
On the ATI, outer pulley is bolted directly to inner hub, then harmonic ring goes with the two for the ride.
And is not really a harmonic balancer like on the old cars that help to balance the motor, but just a device to help to such up the different harmonics, since crank is balanced from the start on the LS motors: so harmonic dampener really in the end.
As for kit, new seal for crank case cover its going to go through, RTV to seal the slot in the new HB, new ARP bolt with red loctite (272), and don't forget to the get the HB install kit, so you don't try to use the bolt to draw the new HB on the crank snout, and strip the threads in the crank from it not grabbing enough threads.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/eM8AA...KiK/s-l960.jpg
Hence bolt is threaded all the way into the crank threads to use all of it threads in the channel, then nut is tightened to draw crank onto snout.
If you want to make your own, then all thread or long bolt that is M16 x 2.0, nut, and then thrush bearing and a few washers.
All the parts in Dayco, less pin kit, plus the two LS tools on Amazon is about 500 bucks.
Deduct $60 from that if you don't need AC belt and tensioner. And another $40 if you get a C2501 instead of PB1117SS.
Your budget-happy repair, if tensioners/idler are ok, would be PB1117N, bolt, belt, seal, two LS tools..... about $150.
Here is a write-up I did on mine with some install tips. Ignore the water pump and PS pump replacements I did.
There are easier ways to replace the balancer.
No need to move the steering rack.
I did it myself twice now, followed the way this guy is doing it.
Harmonic balancer the easy way
This is the way. Moving the steering rack when it's unnecessary makes zero sense to me.
There are easier ways to replace the balancer.
No need to move the steering rack.
I did it myself twice now, followed the way this guy is doing it.
Harmonic balancer the easy way
Looks like he replaced the HB with a stock one. I would definitely upgrade to either the Summit or ATI balancer. A better quality than OEM was.
Pinning not necessary BUT if you ever want to supercharge it, having it pinned will save you so much more labor. So better to pin it when you have access to it.
Why does he use a screwjack on the rear of the car? What is he lifting on and for what purpose?
Powerbond describes it like this: "PowerBond Premium replacement harmonic balancers offer high-quality for the professional engine rebuilder or shade tree mechanic. Featuring a spheroidal graphite iron casting which is considered near-steel strength material, they use both inserted and pressure-bonded rubber that produces rubber strength that is stronger than competitive balancers."
His reply in the YouTube comments says he used the jack in the rear to stabilize the car on the lift. If you have seen any videos of C6s flipping off a lift when the mechanic lightens the load in the front, you will know why.
There are easier ways to replace the balancer.
No need to move the steering rack.
I did it myself twice now, followed the way this guy is doing it.
Harmonic balancer the easy way




















