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Old Aug 13, 2025 | 03:58 PM
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Default Balancing complete kit

So my LS2 is in need of a new harmonic balancer, which I'm going to do myself. What is the best place to get a complete kit, balancer, bolt, seal, tensioner pulley, idler pulley and belts. What is recommended, and is the summit C2501 good enough to replace the stock one,or do I need a ATI harmonic balancer , trying to keep my costs down and still do it better than the OEM one
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Old Aug 13, 2025 | 04:02 PM
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Summit is probably good enough. That said, I put an ATI on mine and when I did my Cousins he opted for a Fluid-damper. Have to admit I think the Fluid-damper is a slick design. Would never need rebuilt.
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Old Aug 13, 2025 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Orion2011
Summit is probably good enough. That said, I put an ATI on mine and when I did my Cousins he opted for a Fluid-damper. Have to admit I think the Fluid-damper is a slick design. Would never need rebuilt.
I think the summit is a solid one piece design that can't fail either . I would think the fluid damper would actually be the best at dampening, which is the whole reason for them in the first place. I have to watch my budget and I just saw that C and S Corvettes sell the complete kit to replace all the pulley's and belts and everything else I need to do the job . I believe it's 839.00 and that includes shipping , and they use the summit balancer. I do appreciate your help with this, going to price everything and see what works for my wallet, LoL
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Old Aug 13, 2025 | 10:05 PM
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PB1117SS if not going to super charger, and ati and pinned if you are going super charger,

The PB1117SS has inner lip one side, C clip on the other side, to retain the inner hub to outer pulley, so you don't end up with wobble again.

On the ATI, outer pulley is bolted directly to inner hub, then harmonic ring goes with the two for the ride.

And is not really a harmonic balancer like on the old cars that help to balance the motor, but just a device to help to such up the different harmonics, since crank is balanced from the start on the LS motors: so harmonic dampener really in the end.

As for kit, new seal for crank case cover its going to go through, RTV to seal the slot in the new HB, new ARP bolt with red loctite (272), and don't forget to the get the HB install kit, so you don't try to use the bolt to draw the new HB on the crank snout, and strip the threads in the crank from it not grabbing enough threads.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/eM8AA...KiK/s-l960.jpg
Hence bolt is threaded all the way into the crank threads to use all of it threads in the channel, then nut is tightened to draw crank onto snout.

If you want to make your own, then all thread or long bolt that is M16 x 2.0, nut, and then thrush bearing and a few washers.
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael Zepp
trying to keep my costs down and still do it better than the OEM one
Consider the OE type Powerbond replacement.....PB1117N ($87 on Rockauto). I researched it on LS Camaro forums (not much talk on CF about it back then) before installing one 8 years, 50k miles ago. No issues.

Rockauto may be your source for the other parts as shipping cost may be ok with a large order. Never seen all the parts in one kit. You can borrow a Chrysler puller, torque wrench and balancer installer from a parts store. May have to buy a flywheel locking tool.
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 07:05 AM
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I saw that same complete kit on C&S Corvettes site. Not sure if the value is there but it sure is convenient and he uses good quality parts so basically a one click and done.
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by vinny R
I saw that same complete kit on C&S Corvettes site. Not sure if the value is there but it sure is convenient and he uses good quality parts so basically a one click and done.
Yup he just did this video the other day explaining everything for a balancer replacement. Good video.

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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 11:03 AM
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I bought a C2501 from Summit and did the job myself using the lower the front cradle/raise the engine method. It wasn't bad. Good luck!
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Old Aug 14, 2025 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by vinny R
I saw that same complete kit on C&S Corvettes site. Not sure if the value is there but it sure is convenient and he uses good quality parts so basically a one click and done.
A little bit of a premium for convenience. Instead of working, I looked up the parts in Rockauto.

All the parts in Dayco, less pin kit, plus the two LS tools on Amazon is about 500 bucks.

Deduct $60 from that if you don't need AC belt and tensioner. And another $40 if you get a C2501 instead of PB1117SS.

Your budget-happy repair, if tensioners/idler are ok, would be PB1117N, bolt, belt, seal, two LS tools..... about $150.

Here is a write-up I did on mine with some install tips. Ignore the water pump and PS pump replacements I did.







Last edited by C6ToGo; Aug 14, 2025 at 04:21 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2025 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
PB1117SS if not going to super charger, and ati and pinned if you are going super charger,

The PB1117SS has inner lip one side, C clip on the other side, to retain the inner hub to outer pulley, so you don't end up with wobble again.

On the ATI, outer pulley is bolted directly to inner hub, then harmonic ring goes with the two for the ride.

And is not really a harmonic balancer like on the old cars that help to balance the motor, but just a device to help to such up the different harmonics, since crank is balanced from the start on the LS motors: so harmonic dampener really in the end.

As for kit, new seal for crank case cover its going to go through, RTV to seal the slot in the new HB, new ARP bolt with red loctite (272), and don't forget to the get the HB install kit, so you don't try to use the bolt to draw the new HB on the crank snout, and strip the threads in the crank from it not grabbing enough threads.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/eM8AA...KiK/s-l960.jpg
Hence bolt is threaded all the way into the crank threads to use all of it threads in the channel, then nut is tightened to draw crank onto snout.

If you want to make your own, then all thread or long bolt that is M16 x 2.0, nut, and then thrush bearing and a few washers.
Appreciate it, truly good info that I will be using
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Old Aug 15, 2025 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by C6ToGo
A little bit of a premium for convenience. Instead of working, I looked up the parts in Rockauto.

All the parts in Dayco, less pin kit, plus the two LS tools on Amazon is about 500 bucks.

Deduct $60 from that if you don't need AC belt and tensioner. And another $40 if you get a C2501 instead of PB1117SS.

Your budget-happy repair, if tensioners/idler are ok, would be PB1117N, bolt, belt, seal, two LS tools..... about $150.

Here is a write-up I did on mine with some install tips. Ignore the water pump and PS pump replacements I did.
That was a great detailed writing, and I understand that a lot of people don't want to do that job , but I'm 62 and retired, I have quick jacks and the tools needed and between what you wrote and Google videos , I am going for it,. I don't have to remove PS or water pump, but just about everything else you have done and I was thinking about 3 to 4 days , depending on how much of a problem I run into. I can do a bunch of different things on my car and I do , just to save the money. If I get into a jam, my son in-law is in charge of working on the ospreys for the Marine corps, so while he's very busy with family and everything, I can always count on him to help me out. Thanks again, gotta love this forum!!
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Old Aug 18, 2025 | 01:37 PM
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That writeup is one way.

There are easier ways to replace the balancer.
No need to move the steering rack.

I did it myself twice now, followed the way this guy is doing it.
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Old Aug 18, 2025 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Zepp
I think the summit is a solid one piece design that can't fail either . I would think the fluid damper would actually be the best at dampening, which is the whole reason for them in the first place. I have to watch my budget and I just saw that C and S Corvettes sell the complete kit to replace all the pulley's and belts and everything else I need to do the job . I believe it's 839.00 and that includes shipping , and they use the summit balancer. I do appreciate your help with this, going to price everything and see what works for my wallet, LoL
I have used fluid dampers on nascar MODIFIEDS engines and drag cars for years with 0 problems
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Old Aug 18, 2025 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Zepp
Appreciate it, truly good info that I will be using

No worries, and pass on the PB1117N, since it just a copy of the oem in every way, and will be the same problems as the oem in given amount of time as well.
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Old Aug 18, 2025 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by oussie
That writeup is one way.

There are easier ways to replace the balancer.
No need to move the steering rack.

I did it myself twice now, followed the way this guy is doing it.
Harmonic balancer the easy way

This is the way. Moving the steering rack when it's unnecessary makes zero sense to me.
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Old Aug 19, 2025 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by oussie
That writeup is one way.

There are easier ways to replace the balancer.
No need to move the steering rack.

I did it myself twice now, followed the way this guy is doing it.
Harmonic balancer the easy way
Great video!

Looks like he replaced the HB with a stock one. I would definitely upgrade to either the Summit or ATI balancer. A better quality than OEM was.

Pinning not necessary BUT if you ever want to supercharge it, having it pinned will save you so much more labor. So better to pin it when you have access to it.

Why does he use a screwjack on the rear of the car? What is he lifting on and for what purpose?
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Old Aug 19, 2025 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Pettrix

Looks like he replaced the HB with a stock one.

Why does he use a screwjack on the rear of the car? What is he lifting on and for what purpose?
At 4:56 in his vid, you can see the HB box. It is a Dayco Powerbond balancer, the PB1117N improved OE style balancer. Not recommended on this forum but I used one after researching it. 8 years / 50k miles ago.

Powerbond describes it like this: "PowerBond Premium replacement harmonic balancers offer high-quality for the professional engine rebuilder or shade tree mechanic. Featuring a spheroidal graphite iron casting which is considered near-steel strength material, they use both inserted and pressure-bonded rubber that produces rubber strength that is stronger than competitive balancers."

His reply in the YouTube comments says he used the jack in the rear to stabilize the car on the lift. If you have seen any videos of C6s flipping off a lift when the mechanic lightens the load in the front, you will know why.
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Old Aug 19, 2025 | 02:10 PM
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I set a screw jack under the rear of the engine so it wouldn't so it would not come down as I lowered the cradle (motor mounts now unbolted). Then I used the screw jack to raise the engine a couple inches. When the cradle is lowered and the engine is raised you have a nice straight shot at the balancer. That's why I set the jack there. I understand the unweighting I've had that issue before but I did this job on my 4 post lift. Just my 2 cents worth..
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Old Aug 20, 2025 | 11:23 AM
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HF sells a 2 ton tripod screw jack. Decent reviews.



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Old Aug 20, 2025 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by oussie
That writeup is one way.

There are easier ways to replace the balancer.
No need to move the steering rack.

I did it myself twice now, followed the way this guy is doing it.
Harmonic balancer the easy way
I saw that video , I presently have mine up on quick jacks and I intend to go the easy way , LoL. After watching several videos I do believe it's easier to drop the cradle and raise the engine so I can get to the balancer. I appreciate you all for helping me figure out the best way to get the job done
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