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Question I have a 05 and bought it with the harmonic balancer wobbling, replaced the HB and no wobble. Drove it for a couple weeks and the HB bolt backed out, and belt came off and the HB was torn up. Put a new HB on and now it wobbles again, any ideas on what to do. Both Harmonic balancers were Dorman, not sure if I need to get an OEM one or what.
Hi there,
When you installed the first one, did you torque the bolt properly? Meaning, that bolt is a torque to yield. You must first torque the bolt to the correct foot pound spec, and then continue to tighten the bolt to the spec of degrees of additional turn. There is a certain degree of ":stretch" that must be achieved to insure proper installation. I installed a Dayco fluid balancer from Rock Auto Parts and have had no problems ever. If you buy a stock balancer, it is still subject to the same failure and the design. To my knowledge GM has never corrected that issue. I'm not sure but I think you also need to use Locktite thread locker on that bolt as well. I know a failed repair sucks, but it's better to know why it failed. If you did not follow the correct torque specs, or reused the original bolt, that is your likely source of the failure. Good luck and don't give up!
Hi there,
When you installed the first one, did you torque the bolt properly? Meaning, that bolt is a torque to yield. You must first torque the bolt to the correct foot pound spec, and then continue to tighten the bolt to the spec of degrees of additional turn. There is a certain degree of ":stretch" that must be achieved to insure proper installation. I installed a Dayco fluid balancer from Rock Auto Parts and have had no problems ever. If you buy a stock balancer, it is still subject to the same failure and the design. To my knowledge GM has never corrected that issue. I'm not sure but I think you also need to use Locktite thread locker on that bolt as well. I know a failed repair sucks, but it's better to know why it failed. If you did not follow the correct torque specs, or reused the original bolt, that is your likely source of the failure. Good luck and don't give up!
Mike F.
Hello, so I bought the car a few weeks go with the HB wobbling and squeaking, then replaced it with a new dorman HB and Bolt, used a impact to put bolt on, but it didnt wobble after that, then drove it for a couple weeks and then bolt backed out and belt came off, towed to my shop and took the HB off and it was tore up, rubber squeezed out and inner bore torn up, Left a little melted metal around crank shaft snout, cleaned that off the best i could with sand paper, then installed a new dorman HB and Bolt then torqued that one to spec and added blue loc tite, now it wobbles but bolt hasnt backed off any. so could the issue be that i impacted the first HB on there, and now the crank shaft snout is a little bit messed up?
I would never use a Dorman HB, they are worse than stock. You CAN NOT reuse the bolt. It's a "torque to yield" bolt that has to be replaced each time. You can't properly tighten it with an impact wrench. The wobble you have now is probably because the crank snout is buggered.
Nowhere in the GM installation instructions does it mention an impact gun. There’s a very specific 2 pass procedure to install the balancer. The new torque to yield bolt gets used only on the second pass. There are variations on what you need to remove or drop in order to have enough room to do the job, but the guts of the procedure are in the middle of the attached document.
Although it's not the official method, using a strong impact (Milwaukee Hi-Torque) and some red loctite has never failed many on this job.
With what the OP is saying, seems like it just did!
You could argue that he didn't use the Milwaukee Hi-Torque Impact gun you reference. I can argue (like others) that the official replacement procedure does NOT say that using an impact gun (ANY impact gun) is an acceptable alternative. I can also argue that by not following the proper procedures, the OP has very likely created additional problems for themselves.
With what the OP is saying, seems like it just did!
You could argue that he didn't use the Milwaukee Hi-Torque Impact gun you reference. I can argue (like others) that the official replacement procedure does NOT say that using an impact gun (ANY impact gun) is an acceptable alternative. I can also argue that by not following the proper procedures, the OP has very likely created additional problems for themselves.
He also didn't use any loctite. Then he used blue loctite the second time. Using a strong impact and RED loctite is tried and true, albeit against official procedure.
With what the OP is saying, seems like it just did!
You could argue that he didn't use the Milwaukee Hi-Torque Impact gun you reference. I can argue (like others) that the official replacement procedure does NOT say that using an impact gun (ANY impact gun) is an acceptable alternative. I can also argue that by not following the proper procedures, the OP has very likely created additional problems for themselves.
The goal of the TSB is to ensure a reliable interference fit and controlled clamp load. That’s a mechanical objective — not just an arbitrary torque number. And it assumes that you’re using an OEM balancer. Now I understand why you wouldn’t want to use an OEM balancer. The problem with using an aftermarket balancer is that if the material properties or fit dimensions are different, then the specifics of the procedure might not apply. After having researched issues that some owners had with their C6s, I added in a Powerbond HB to an order from Summit so that I would have a ready replacement just in case. It did not come with install directions. Do any of the aftermarket balancers come with install instructions?