JyRO

Guys -

First post here, great site. I currenly own an RX7 with a decently operating modified wankel. It was modified previous to my ownership and the previous owner didn't know what in the he11 he was doing. Its been abused. I'm trying to straighten it out at this time. These twin turbos aren't known for their longevity in the 1st place, so I'm doubting this one will last too very long.

The car is cool, handles great, is lightweight. I think it would be cooler to keep it rotary, but I would be h.p. and money ahead (because replacement engines don't seem to last too long either) to go ahead and do the swap. I've read from a lot of guys doing it that their weight distribution barely changed going to an LS1.

So, this brings me to the point of this post. I want to know where I can look to find totaled C6 Z06's. Its a shame to ask such a question, but I'd like for this RX7 to be a little special.

I would like to find a whole salvaged C6 Z06, doesn't matter the body damage as long as the engine and transmission are OK. If I can find it relatively soon, I will swap the engine before it manages to let go.

Can anybody give me some advice where I might start looking for crashed C6 Z06's? I'll be watching ebay, but so far, nothing. Thanks.

- JyRO

Racer X

It might be cheaper to buy a crate engine and a transmission than to buy a whole totaled car.

Although if the frame is damaged, maybe the frame can't be repaired at any cost. So it may go cheap.

JyRO

Hmmm, I thought it would be cheaper to buy the car, complete with everything I need (trans, electronics, etc). Then sell off what I could from the remaining car. I've thought about the crate engine route. Not sure which is less expensive, but I'm all ears!

- JyRO

Crushinator

There's a Corvette salvage yard in Bristol PA called www.contemporarycorvette.com Keep in touch with them. They may get something in eventually...

LTC Z06

This will be a cool swap, keep us informed; and Welcome!

Mr turbo rotary

Rotaries can last if they are modified correctly. There are plenty in my neck of the woods running around with 440 hp and 100,000 plus miles. One just dynoed 455 rwhp @ 16 psi. The car will be sprite at 2650 lbs. The stock twin turbos are good for 100,000 plus miles as well.

The engine should be built for higher hp levels but the cost is minimal over a stock engine 1500.00 more or so. Finding a C6 427 would be a fantastic swap but it will be expensive. Nobody is going to give you one cheap.

TTRotary

In addition to what Chris has said, there is a LOT more involved than just dropping in the motor. The LS engines weigh about 50lb more than the 13B (fully-dressed weight for both), so the weight is not the problem. What is complicated, is locating the engine correctly so you don't alter the steering rack and therefore geometry of the car. The Ls is dimensionally similar to the 20B 3-rotor, so you can use the Peter Farrell 3-rotor conversions as a guide: $25K minimum and the firewall has to be moved and a new subframe built. You also have the concern of significant torque (although the RX-7 trans and diffy are very tough) and its effect on the chassis. Finally, bear in mind that the LS7 is NOT a good platform for power adders, given the high compression, alloy pistons, and VERY THIN cast-in liners.

Chris's advice is good: focus on increasing the power of the 13B. There are some very neat single-turbo setups that provide great power with little lag. If you're going to spend $25K, do the 3-rotor at least. You're good for 650HP with that setup. Besides, the heart and soul of the RX-7 is the rotary engine.

JyRO

I agree that the rotary is its heart and soul. But this engine is a rebuilt unit that was abused by its previous owner. I have no confidence in it. I probably wouldn't do *too* much hp mods, to an LS7. I like the simplicity, and stealth of nitrous, but I have no idea how an LS7 would take to it. But that's own down the road.

Its just that, I would love to have the h.p. and torque the LS7 puts out, compared to the durability of V8's compared to rotarys. I'm sure rotary's can last long if properly cared for, but really, you can't argue about which one is more durable.

As for the transmission, I'm just in the beginning phases of this thinking, but I thought that generally when doing a V8 swap, the transmission (in the case its from a Corvette) went with the swap?

Nat04Z06 - Thanks for the link, I'll be watching.

- JyRO

TTRotary

A guy running a 100 shot of NOS on on his new Z06 cracked a cylinder sleeve (on this engine, that equals cracking the block) before he even left the starting line. This engine is good for headers, intake, and a bigger cam, and that's about it.

You cannot fit the Corvette trans + differential into the rea subframe of your FD. Look under a C5 or C6 Vette, then look at your differential. The GM unit is about 2X the size of the mazda's. You could shoehorn the trans up front with the bellhousing, but there goes your balance and you still can't get the diffy in there.

Check the archives on the RX-7 forums. You'll see several guys like Jim Labreck and others who tackled these swaps years ago, but with great difficulty (and these are guys who were expert techicians and had access to welding, fabrication etc.). At least they left a record of what was involved.

Just run your motor til it pops, then get a quality rebuild from Mazdatrix or Tri-point and go single turbo.

gonzalezfj

[QUOTE=Mr turbo rotary]Rotaries can last if they are modified correctly. There are plenty in my neck of the woods running around with 440 hp and 100,000 plus miles. One just dynoed 455 rwhp @ 16 psi. The car will be sprite at 2650 lbs. The stock twin turbos are good for 100,000 plus miles as well.

QUOTE]

From what I have seen rotaries don't last past 40,000 miles even when stock.

TTRotary

That is complete nonsense. I had four RX-7 turbos and kept all four well beyond 50K miles. Two of them were heavily modified and posted full compression numbers when I sold them.

There are many turbocharged RX-7s out there with high mileage (over 90K). Non-turbo ones are 200K engines with the right care.

cdk4219

I have two LS1 Rx7's, One FD and one FC TII. The FD is Procharged, and the TII stock LS1. After both of mine were done, Hinson Supercars made a kit for the swap. Jim Labreck never got his finished, more talk than do for him.

glass slipper

You might want to let Lingenfelter in on this well kept secret, they have unleashed an 800 HP twin turbo Z06 on the public (and it uses the stock block/crank w/2 yr warranty). Also, the iron sleeves can be replaced in the aluminum block, so no worries there.

Try stuffing that LPE TT LS7 in an RX7, now that would be a blast! Should be easy, after all, I've heard you can put a hemi in a roller skate.

TTRotary

Factory has clearly indicated LS7 CANNOT be re-sleeved, because there is not enough material to re-mill the bore. Also, if the liner splits, it will also split the AL surface behind it.

As for Lingenfelter, it is guaranteed because the $46K price tag includes 2 spare motors

Seriously, that's damned impressive, but I doubt there is much life there unless compression is reduced. Quick math says that is 8-10psi, which is at 11.0:1 CR, even with highly efficient intercooling.

boblackhardtop

346ci w/ H&C should be more than enough power at less than 1/2 the price. It's pretty close to the power of a stock Z anyway except for the TQ. Then again the car only weigh 2700lbs or so, 400+ft/lbs should be more than adequate.

mas280

I am running a ls2 402 in my 1993 rx7 and I love it. The car runs 10's@143mph. Here is a video of me racing a very fast 996tt that makes more than 900awhp. The ls1-rx7's are not the fastest cars out there but they do move good with the ls motors.

http://videos.streetfire.net/Player...6A-6BE091791677

2MCHPWR

The info you are giving out about the LS1/LS7 swap is wrong. The steering issue is fixing with Hinson Supercars bumpsteer kit ($115). Firewall doesn't have to be touched at all. Rx7 trans are not used for these swaps; t56 is used. Modified Engine Sub-frame $735.00 from hinson.

Again more bad info. You can fit the F-body t56 in the swap. It is required. You use the stock rx7 diff though and its very strong especially with better diff (I have kaaz) and better axles (I use 300M axles). You also said it messes up the balance and again you are so wrong. I weighed my ls1 rx7 on corner scales and also did it with a stock red R1 rx7. my weight distribution is better (50.5% front/49.5% rear) and the swap gained 15 lbs. Its not apples to apples comparison though because my battery is moved to behind passenger seat, and I don't have ABS, PS or AC. But it does show that a smart conversion improves weight distribution over a STOCK rx7.
Left Front lbs. 684 -- 718
Right Front lbs. 695 -- 718
Total Front lbs. 1379 -- 1436
Left Rear lbs. 705 -- 660
Right Rear lbs. 645 -- 618
Total Rear lbs. 1350 -- 1278
TOTAL Weight 2729 -- 2714
% over Front 0.505 -- 0.53
% over Rear 0.495 -- 0.47


Not trying to be a dick; just trying to stop the spreading of false info. This swap is very easy to do and hinson sells the entire kit with everything you need to do it in your own garage.

Here is video of the cross weight comparions: http://207.127.219.37/video/AX.wmv
Here is video of my first time taking the finished car to pocono road course with stock old suspension (lots of body roll): http://207.127.219.37/video/poclong_0002.wmv

Good luck with your ls7 swap but I think the price for the motor is too expensive right now and you can get similar performance from modding a ls1 or ls6.

LS1LT1

Nice info 2MCHPWR.

TTRotary

I very much doubt that. Peter Farrell spent a LONG time trying to solve this problem without resorting to cutting sheet metal, and reluctantly determined there was no other way to make the car handle acceptably. Given he is a world champoin road racer and you are not, I think I'll believe him when he says that is the only acceptable way to do this.


So, you are telling us that the T56 fits in the rear of the car? Or are you telling us you put it where I said (in the tranny tunnel) and it did not affect balance. Either way, how about some pics of the underside of your car, so we can see how this all works.

BTW, the T56 is not "required". There are several conversions with the mazda transmission.

.

These came stock on the car. Why on earth would you remove ABS?

Most be some garage you have, with a lift, engine lift, welders etc. Send us a pic of that too so we can all drool. What was your total outlay for the conversion?

2MCHPWR

all the pics and links to hinson are on my website. just click on my sig. there are over 100 LS1 RX7's across the country. www.torquecentral.com is the main internet meeting place for us.
Sport compact car magazine included one in their annual supercar tests and it pulled 1.13 lateral g's on Michelin pilot sports:

http://207.127.219.37/scc.htm

I don't know why Farrell wouldn't market such a simple fix. maybe because he makes a big part of his profits from supporting rotaries and he doesn't want to branch out into motor transplants that deal with piston power.

I bought my car already assembled. previous owner's intent was drag race only so he had Hinson remove the ABS in an effort to save weight. I autocross so I am re-installing the ABS system in the following weeks. weight savings is also the reason he removed AC and PS; I don't need either of them so they will remain off the car.

t56 attaches to motor in tranny tunnel. I showed you the weight distribution by chart and by video. so obviously it doesn't mess up weight distribution.

I'm trying to enlighten you but if you still are resistant to listen to these facts, you are a typical rotard