[Z06] First pics 2007 Z06 Blew #7 valve.
#23
I would not let the hacker who laid parts all over my windshield live, let alone continue to work on my car. Is that plain old wool covering up your composite fenders?
Smack that fool and set him straight. This is not just another Chevy, it is a Corvette. If he can not understand that, move to someone that can. Warrantee or not. Pretty soon they will be dissassembling the front end to transplant the new block. If they do not care about the little things now, how will they be with the big things later?
Perhaps this is the same crappy, sloppy dirty dealer who did my rear axle last month. Joe Downey Chevrolet in Canton?
Smack that fool and set him straight. This is not just another Chevy, it is a Corvette. If he can not understand that, move to someone that can. Warrantee or not. Pretty soon they will be dissassembling the front end to transplant the new block. If they do not care about the little things now, how will they be with the big things later?
Perhaps this is the same crappy, sloppy dirty dealer who did my rear axle last month. Joe Downey Chevrolet in Canton?
#24
Safety Car
#25
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Didn't you allready have an '06 Z06 go bang?
And for all you ****ing winers about parts on the windshield... geeze... guess were I put most of my parts doing my valve spring swap... and guess what... it's fine.
And for all you ****ing winers about parts on the windshield... geeze... guess were I put most of my parts doing my valve spring swap... and guess what... it's fine.
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If ppl are going to start to track( road HPDEs) then things change slightly.
The LS6 needs to have an extra quart min for track days. a accu-sump with oil cooler is the best way to go. T1 cars have these.
On the LS2, C6 Z51, still needs an additonal quart of oil added. The oil cooler, trans cooler too, are good, but if someone still does lots of HPDEs larger coolers are needed, or just dont track mid June to mid Sept do to the heat out side. But that kills most of the season
the LS7 has the dry sump. Actully it is more of a damp sump. a single stage oil pick up. This is OK for moderate track use, however, on the high speed sweepers with High G-forces the oil is still pushed to the out side wall of the block. Possible, repeat possible oil starvation problems again. Unfortunitly it seems to be the #7 cyclinder that has the least oil flow no matter what. Farthest away from pick up ?? could be. Least or smallest Oil passages?? Dont think so as the LS2 and LS7 oil passages where redesigned from the the C5R block and evoloution of the LS6 blocks.
It seams it is the right hand high speed sweeping corners ( high G corners), pushing the oil to the left side of the block causing the #7, back rear of the block to loose oiling. It only takes a moment.
Most road course are clock wise directions.
I am not fully sure if this is the cause, but from reading many posts on differnt forums and talking to lots of mechanics and ppl who have lost an LSx block, it may be.
This is a problem but not a big problem in the overall skeem of things and very very few LSx motors have this problem.
Rember GM Performance Divison took a LS6 and spoun that motor at redline 6500+ rpms for several hundred hours without problems.
Would a 2 stage oil pick up for the LS7s dry sump help? Maybe.
Something else I think ppl should do, but are just reluctant to do or cheep, is change their oil and get the oil analysed.
I change my oil ever 500 miles, yes 500 not 5000. That is every TWO weekends on the track, plus I send oil samples to two diffent labs for analyses. I also use 15-w50 M1 ( thick oil) that can take high heat.
I mention to occational track guys to change the oil before your third track weekend. the drivng in betwwen does not hurt, but the high temps, high rpms and high G corners is a lot on the LSx and harder on the oil.
When I change my oil, accu-sump so it takes 10 1/2 quarts, I let it all drain out, remove filter, then lift the rear of the car slightly, a bit more comes out. Pour old oil into 5 qt M1 containers to measure the amount of oil that came out.
Then I pour a full quart though the block. the first 1/2 qt is a black as the old oil,( cleans out sludge) then it turns golden brown like new oil should look.
Put oil in the filter ( I use the AC Delco), put in the plug, fill with oil. Crank over the motor, let the oil circulate, then add what is needed.
Normally of the 10 1/2 qts 9 1/4 to 9 3/4 comes out. the last little big is in the lines and oil cooler. SO I put in what came out. put the wheels back on ( no lifr jack stands here) take it for a drive, check the oil levels add as needed, Record in the log book, what came out ane what went in.
Every other oil change I send two samples away. Lots can be learned from oil sampling.
HTH a bit
Happy Motoring
Tom
#29
Le Mans Master
Actually the parts are probably safer on the windshield than on the floor where they would most likely be kicked around and walked on!
#30
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Rember GM Performance Divison took a LS6 and spoun that motor at redline 6500+ rpms for several hundred hours without problems.
Something else I think ppl should do, but are just reluctant to do or cheep, is change their oil and get the oil analysed.
I change my oil ever 500 miles, yes 500 not 5000. That is every TWO weekends on the track, plus I send oil samples to two diffent labs for analyses. I also use 15-w50 M1 ( thick oil) that can take high heat.
Every other oil change I send two samples away. Lots can be learned from oil sampling.
HTH a bit
Happy Motoring
Tom
Something else I think ppl should do, but are just reluctant to do or cheep, is change their oil and get the oil analysed.
I change my oil ever 500 miles, yes 500 not 5000. That is every TWO weekends on the track, plus I send oil samples to two diffent labs for analyses. I also use 15-w50 M1 ( thick oil) that can take high heat.
Every other oil change I send two samples away. Lots can be learned from oil sampling.
HTH a bit
Happy Motoring
Tom
#31
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Dan I think it is quite rare that this happens to 'stock' non-track driven LS7s.
If ppl are going to start to track( road HPDEs) then things change slightly.
The LS6 needs to have an extra quart min for track days. a accu-sump with oil cooler is the best way to go. T1 cars have these.
On the LS2, C6 Z51, still needs an additonal quart of oil added. The oil cooler, trans cooler too, are good, but if someone still does lots of HPDEs larger coolers are needed, or just dont track mid June to mid Sept do to the heat out side. But that kills most of the season
the LS7 has the dry sump. Actully it is more of a damp sump. a single stage oil pick up. This is OK for moderate track use, however, on the high speed sweepers with High G-forces the oil is still pushed to the out side wall of the block. Possible, repeat possible oil starvation problems again. Unfortunitly it seems to be the #7 cyclinder that has the least oil flow no matter what. Farthest away from pick up ?? could be. Least or smallest Oil passages?? Dont think so as the LS2 and LS7 oil passages where redesigned from the the C5R block and evoloution of the LS6 blocks.
It seams it is the right hand high speed sweeping corners ( high G corners), pushing the oil to the left side of the block causing the #7, back rear of the block to loose oiling. It only takes a moment.
Most road course are clock wise directions.
I am not fully sure if this is the cause, but from reading many posts on differnt forums and talking to lots of mechanics and ppl who have lost an LSx block, it may be.
This is a problem but not a big problem in the overall skeem of things and very very few LSx motors have this problem.
Rember GM Performance Divison took a LS6 and spoun that motor at redline 6500+ rpms for several hundred hours without problems.
Would a 2 stage oil pick up for the LS7s dry sump help? Maybe.
Something else I think ppl should do, but are just reluctant to do or cheep, is change their oil and get the oil analysed.
I change my oil ever 500 miles, yes 500 not 5000. That is every TWO weekends on the track, plus I send oil samples to two diffent labs for analyses. I also use 15-w50 M1 ( thick oil) that can take high heat.
I mention to occational track guys to change the oil before your third track weekend. the drivng in betwwen does not hurt, but the high temps, high rpms and high G corners is a lot on the LSx and harder on the oil.
When I change my oil, accu-sump so it takes 10 1/2 quarts, I let it all drain out, remove filter, then lift the rear of the car slightly, a bit more comes out. Pour old oil into 5 qt M1 containers to measure the amount of oil that came out.
Then I pour a full quart though the block. the first 1/2 qt is a black as the old oil,( cleans out sludge) then it turns golden brown like new oil should look.
Put oil in the filter ( I use the AC Delco), put in the plug, fill with oil. Crank over the motor, let the oil circulate, then add what is needed.
Normally of the 10 1/2 qts 9 1/4 to 9 3/4 comes out. the last little big is in the lines and oil cooler. SO I put in what came out. put the wheels back on ( no lifr jack stands here) take it for a drive, check the oil levels add as needed, Record in the log book, what came out ane what went in.
Every other oil change I send two samples away. Lots can be learned from oil sampling.
HTH a bit
Happy Motoring
Tom
If ppl are going to start to track( road HPDEs) then things change slightly.
The LS6 needs to have an extra quart min for track days. a accu-sump with oil cooler is the best way to go. T1 cars have these.
On the LS2, C6 Z51, still needs an additonal quart of oil added. The oil cooler, trans cooler too, are good, but if someone still does lots of HPDEs larger coolers are needed, or just dont track mid June to mid Sept do to the heat out side. But that kills most of the season
the LS7 has the dry sump. Actully it is more of a damp sump. a single stage oil pick up. This is OK for moderate track use, however, on the high speed sweepers with High G-forces the oil is still pushed to the out side wall of the block. Possible, repeat possible oil starvation problems again. Unfortunitly it seems to be the #7 cyclinder that has the least oil flow no matter what. Farthest away from pick up ?? could be. Least or smallest Oil passages?? Dont think so as the LS2 and LS7 oil passages where redesigned from the the C5R block and evoloution of the LS6 blocks.
It seams it is the right hand high speed sweeping corners ( high G corners), pushing the oil to the left side of the block causing the #7, back rear of the block to loose oiling. It only takes a moment.
Most road course are clock wise directions.
I am not fully sure if this is the cause, but from reading many posts on differnt forums and talking to lots of mechanics and ppl who have lost an LSx block, it may be.
This is a problem but not a big problem in the overall skeem of things and very very few LSx motors have this problem.
Rember GM Performance Divison took a LS6 and spoun that motor at redline 6500+ rpms for several hundred hours without problems.
Would a 2 stage oil pick up for the LS7s dry sump help? Maybe.
Something else I think ppl should do, but are just reluctant to do or cheep, is change their oil and get the oil analysed.
I change my oil ever 500 miles, yes 500 not 5000. That is every TWO weekends on the track, plus I send oil samples to two diffent labs for analyses. I also use 15-w50 M1 ( thick oil) that can take high heat.
I mention to occational track guys to change the oil before your third track weekend. the drivng in betwwen does not hurt, but the high temps, high rpms and high G corners is a lot on the LSx and harder on the oil.
When I change my oil, accu-sump so it takes 10 1/2 quarts, I let it all drain out, remove filter, then lift the rear of the car slightly, a bit more comes out. Pour old oil into 5 qt M1 containers to measure the amount of oil that came out.
Then I pour a full quart though the block. the first 1/2 qt is a black as the old oil,( cleans out sludge) then it turns golden brown like new oil should look.
Put oil in the filter ( I use the AC Delco), put in the plug, fill with oil. Crank over the motor, let the oil circulate, then add what is needed.
Normally of the 10 1/2 qts 9 1/4 to 9 3/4 comes out. the last little big is in the lines and oil cooler. SO I put in what came out. put the wheels back on ( no lifr jack stands here) take it for a drive, check the oil levels add as needed, Record in the log book, what came out ane what went in.
Every other oil change I send two samples away. Lots can be learned from oil sampling.
HTH a bit
Happy Motoring
Tom
As always you are a wealth of knowledge and information. Your theory I will call it sure sounds reasonable.
I change my oil between track events. I have been using the specified 5w30. As mentioned many times on the forum I have seen 18 psi at idle after a session.
Would it be okay to run the 15w50 in the ls7 on the track with warm temperatures?
Also will it increase oil pressures at any time
Is there anything that can be done to prevent this possible problem and maintain a warranty?
The only thing that concerns me is where are these motors failing. It seems the Ls7's are breaking on the street.
Thanks again for you reply and appreciate your willingness to share with us.
Dan
#33
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Just normal ware and tear on the a high performance use engine.
The engine ware I see is what the average corvette engine sees in 3-4000 miles.
The engine will get pulled this Jan. New one going in. Some time in 2007, when I have the time I will take this one apart and look closer.
The LSx engines can take a lot of hard use and abuse. Changing the oil helps them it last. But with out clean oil and proper oiling / lubrication, no engine can last very long when running constant 3000+ rpms.
IMHO dont try to go as long as possible between oil changes.
#34
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St. Jude Donor '08
Where are they supposed to put your parts? Under the car. You have to know that while they are waiting on parts they will be working on other peoples cars too. I guess you figure them to put everything on their toolbox and shut down till YOUR car is done. Come on people, really think about what you are saying. It is not going to hurt your windshield. Unless you have the diamond studded covers. That is where I put mine when I am working on the car too. The bolts go on the grate. My rant is over...E
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2006 Z06.
694/584 RW hp/tq
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Katech RHS 434 Track Attack.
ARE 4 Stage Dry Sump
2" Headers/Burns Exhaust
QM 8.5" clutch
JRI coil overs, LG Spindles, Mono *****, Sways
LG Carbon Hood
Katech CF Decklid & roof
Forgeline GTD1 wheels
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LG GT2 wing/splitter
Lay down radiator
Full cage and more...
OTHER STUFF:
2023 C8 Z06
2024 2500 HD ZR2
2022 Chevy Blazer RS. Wifeys daily driver
2006 Z06.
694/584 RW hp/tq
2,9xx pounds
Katech RHS 434 Track Attack.
ARE 4 Stage Dry Sump
2" Headers/Burns Exhaust
QM 8.5" clutch
JRI coil overs, LG Spindles, Mono *****, Sways
LG Carbon Hood
Katech CF Decklid & roof
Forgeline GTD1 wheels
Sparco Seats
Carbon Ceramic Brakes
LG GT2 wing/splitter
Lay down radiator
Full cage and more...
OTHER STUFF:
2023 C8 Z06
2024 2500 HD ZR2
2022 Chevy Blazer RS. Wifeys daily driver
#35
+-1% of most every engine built has failures. The LS-7 revs higher and has 11:1 compression. I'm not surprised at all about the few rare issues.
#36
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new.
I change the oil and filter frequently. To me it is cheap insurance.
I have also changed the diff fluid twice. No problems there either.
#37
#38
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Just because ppl on the street are having some #7 failure does not mean they are not doing 'spirited' driving. I would not be suppreised that some high speed sweeping right handers cause oil starvation and the #7 went even on the street / country twisties.
Once a year oil change?? That is pure lazyness. More dammage is done by NOT driving the cars and letting them sit and seals dry out.
#39
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Dan I would run 10-w30 in the LS7 or get some Redline 40wt.
Just because ppl on the street are having some #7 failure does not mean they are not doing 'spirited' driving. I would not be suppreised that some high speed sweeping right handers cause oil starvation and the #7 went even on the street / country twisties.
Once a year oil change?? That is pure lazyness. More dammage is done by NOT driving the cars and letting them sit and seals dry out.
Just because ppl on the street are having some #7 failure does not mean they are not doing 'spirited' driving. I would not be suppreised that some high speed sweeping right handers cause oil starvation and the #7 went even on the street / country twisties.
Once a year oil change?? That is pure lazyness. More dammage is done by NOT driving the cars and letting them sit and seals dry out.
#40
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First picture of motor with blown #7 Valve.
Notice the picture of the intake port, at the bottom is the Valve it self stuck down in there, I am getting a new crate motor. GM want to send dealer a long block but he told them that I would not be satisified with that and they approve the crate motor not long block. I gues it is $18,000 for crate motor and $12,000 for long block.
Notice the picture of the intake port, at the bottom is the Valve it self stuck down in there, I am getting a new crate motor. GM want to send dealer a long block but he told them that I would not be satisified with that and they approve the crate motor not long block. I gues it is $18,000 for crate motor and $12,000 for long block.