PeterM

4GS7

Ur cam chi is weak.

359/359 1.5/1.5 90-14.

Makes eleventymillion hp and idles great............at 4k.

0Louis @ LG Motorsports

Searching the OPs threads, he took it to Virginia Speed, and the car made 570 rwhp. thats a lot of power, so the cam must be large(r) on the spectrum, which will buck below 1400-1600. Its the nature of the beast.

Good tuning is key, and Ed, the calibrator there is pretty good. He is one of the better guys to tune these cars for sure

satans csex

What are your cam SPECS?! Do you have a cam card you can read out to me. Simple to answer your question if I had the specs. If its the TUNE,CAM,Or JUST SOMETHING ELSE.

andreas g.

Food for thought. On any other LS type motor doing a cam only is not ever going to be an issue in terms of valve failure, because all the valves are solid one piece. On the other hand; the 06 and up Z06's ( I've had two and 08 and presently an 09). These for some reason have a two piece hollow stem sodium filled exhaust valve. Now, with the stock spring pressures of 90 lbs on the seat, and given the mild cam ramps, there shouldn't ever be a problem ( some stockers have failed).
Now you add an agressive cam profile for increased performance. The cam ramps are viturally vertical snaping the valve open and closed. Your spring pressures with any type of performance cam will be in the 130-140 lbs of closed seat pressure. When that two piece exhaust valve falls of the cam lobe in the closing event, it comes to an abrupt stop on the seat, and where the valve is pressed fitted together it's trying to seperate it. Like I said a one piece valve is not a problem, but the two piece valve is a time bomb. Some guys on the forum say they have thousand of miles on the cam only motors; and the next drive down the street could be there last for a while. Next week my 09 Z06 is going in for a mild street cam change, and even though there's nothing wrong with the heads there comming off to R&R the exhaust valves with one piece stainless steel units. Also some porting while there off. I don't want to spend the extra $, but it gives me some piece of mind. I've also R&R'ed the rockers with CHE units to eliminate the bearing issue all together. As to your question, if you've got big stick live with it. It's may be a paint shaker, and tunning will help, but in the world of big cams you can't have your cake and eat it too. I know; I've had in your face cams in stroker LS motors, and that's what you get. Good luck!

0Slowhawk

If the most powerfull cam could drive like stock there would be no reason to ever buy the smaller cams.If it made 570rwhp like posted above I would agree it won't be happy going through a parking lot under 1600rpm. Ed is a very good tuner.

I've had a few people come in with cars bucking like crazy and even stalling.They would say the cars run great.Drivabilty and the quality is an opinion of each driver.Some never notice the buck or just drive around it and tell everyone they drive like stock.Another person feels one glitch and freaks out.

Sounds like you might of want all the power but it probly wasn't explained that with the high power you need to change your driving style.

edcmat-l1

^^^Thanks Louis, Don.

Yep, I tuned the car. And yes, the driveability is not perfect. Yes it does have a big azz cam.

It was brought back today, and after a tweak of the idle misfire table, to turn the light back out (I hate to max them) I took it for a ride, and I gotta say, for the cam that's in it, it drives damn good. I can get it down as low as 1300 in second and it drove pretty good.

Yes I did spend about 3 days tuning, letting it sit, going back for cold start, etc, and driving again. Anyone that thinks you can tune one of these things in a couple/three hours hasn't spent any time tuning them. It takes a bunch of work just to make them start up right.

'06 Quicksilver Z06

Hope you get some of your drivability back.

lfsglass

How big is the big azz cam?

Gannet

By everything I've ever read, you're in good hands with Ed. If the cam is still too grumpy for you in parking lots one thing you could consider (other than dropping to a smaller cam) is going to 3.90 or 4.10 rear gears. That can help low-speed driveability on a car like that quite a bit.

But really, I would just explain to Ed what you like and don't like and take his advice. A -good- tuner, on the spot, is worth 10,000 forum posts.

Vette5.5

There's only so much can be expected of a tune to smooth out low rpm performance of a high overlap cam profile. GM went through a rather rigorous development cycle to keep these cars acceptable in an international market with Ferrari's and such. Lot's of development work yielded a rather lame 120 LSA cam grind paired to a top line 360 CFM intake head flow to keep everyone happy. The rumpity idle quality of a 60's muscle car might be cool to some, but really not acceptable in today's modern product's.

Vito.A

The stock Z06 cam is actually designed for EPA emissions. Performance, driveability, and avoiding warranty service are secondary parameters.

DSteck

Pretty much. A lot of people don't understand how much work actually goes in to getting everything correct, and typically get pissed at the cost of tuning and the time it takes to complete correctly. So many people just don't understand...

0EG@EnglandGreen

And 570rwhp is a B-I-G cam.

DSOM Z06

The good captain (The OP) must be OK since he has been MIA since he posted this. Anyway I'm looking for 600+RWHP from my new setup with stock-like driveability & manners.......Vette Doctors get your tuning fork out and get cracking baby!!!!!!!

BIGBOS

I've read about the two piece valve potentially being a problem, but it seems the majoirty (knock on wood) who run mid/large cams haven't had any issues with these failing.