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[Z06] AMAZING product for anyone installing aftermarklet fuel rails

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[Z06] AMAZING product for anyone installing aftermarklet fuel rails

 
Old 05-09-2010, 12:26 AM
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bowtiguy
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Default AMAZING product for anyone installing aftermarklet fuel rails

After Installing my Fast 102 LSXr intake last winter along with fast rails and 3/8 fuel line to -6AN adaptor here is what I found in regards to fitment.

1) The LS7 specific FAST fuel rails fit like a glove ( with stock injectors)

2) The Fast LSXr 102mm LS7 intake still rubbed on the center firewall bolt ( for a while) even after removing material from the back of the intake. But now that everything has worn off...... its just fine.

3) The 3/8" to -6AN fuel line adaptor was B*TCH to get on and never really sealed. I ALWAYS had some form of fuel vapor smell under the hood..directly by the adaptor.

After a full weekend with NASA @ PPIR, I go into the car on monday after work to have the adaptor TOTALLY fail and spew gas all over the drivers side of the engine compartment ..until the ECM cut off the fuel pump. If I was on track at the time....

I posted here on the forum for a "RELIABLE" alternative and several members chimed in...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...on-my-c6z.html


$15 dollars later ( with shipping) I got this great Stainless Steel piece from Swage lock




http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...t=SS-600-6-6AN
Here are some close ups...









very simple to install, Just insert hardline until it hits internal stop ( there is plenty of room before you hit the factory "ridge")





Tighten to 45 ft/lbs. Installed.....





Compared to the $35 FAST charges for their aluminum w/ plastic insert outsourced answer for converting a 3/8" hard line to -6AN.

All I can say is WOW!

1) its smaller than all other aftermarket choices
2) its simpler ( think copper tubing compression fitting W/O the ferel <SP?>)
3) IT WORKS!!!!

After about 45 minutes of driving and its still sealed and shows NO signs of leakage. I'll follow-up later and let everyone know if anything changes, but for now....I'm sold!

IMHO, EVERY aftermarket fuel system needs this piece. its cheap and it works!!!
Attached Images      

Last edited by bowtiguy; 05-09-2010 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 05-09-2010, 03:21 AM
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Great post thanks!
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Old 05-09-2010, 03:52 AM
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Default Swagelock

In my former life I sold swagelock and man it was expensive. Very high quality stuff but extremely reliable.
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Old 05-09-2010, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by captain454 View Post
Swagelok is THE ONLY way to go when it comes to connectors and fittings, especially for pressurized liquids. Absolutely no chance of a leak or failure when installed correctly.
Well....there is also Parker CPI fittings and if you don't like them there is also Parkers A Lok line which is an identical copy of the venerable Swagelok line. Any of the three would suffice in our applications. After 25+ years working in pulp and paper specializing in process controls, I was happy with any of the fore mentioned fittings, it basically boiled down to the mills preferrence or who ever had the best price during contract negotiations. And as you mentioned "installed correctly" is the key..... and yes there is a correct way to install them as simple as it may seem. Both Swagelok and Parker offer gauges that a tech can use to gauge how far the nut is tightened down. If it's not tight enough the ferrules won't grip properly and it will leak, if its too tight, the ferrules cut into the line and could break or leak.
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Old 05-09-2010, 12:46 PM
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Going to order 1 now,thanks for the link
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Old 05-09-2010, 01:24 PM
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I hand tightened mine with no guage. after driving the car I could still smell "a touch " of fuel vapor with my nose right on it. Specs from Swagelock are 45 ft lbs for SS couple of 3/8 line. I wonder if this changes based on the material the tubing it made out of ..steel or Aluminum.

I intend on buying a 5/8 open end wrench with 3/8" ratchet input and verify torque..

Unless some one has a better Idea...( just thinking out loud here)

I guess I could secure the back "tightening nut" with an open end wrench and torque the front section in place with the -6AN fuel line off too.

I should have thought about that earlier, but its not leaking..
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Old 05-09-2010, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bowtiguy View Post
I hand tightened mine with no guage. after driving the car I could still smell "a touch " of fuel vapor with my nose right on it. Specs from Swagelock are 45 ft lbs for SS couple of 3/8 line. I wonder if this changes based on the material the tubing it made out of ..steel or Aluminum.

I intend on buying a 5/8 open end wrench with 3/8" ratchet input and verify torque..

Unless some one has a better Idea...( just thinking out loud here)

I guess I could secure the back "tightening nut" with an open end wrench and torque the front section in place with the -6AN fuel line off too.

I should have thought about that earlier, but its not leaking..

That seems pretty high, I found their recommended tightening specs:
http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/we...N/MS-12-01.PDF

It is basically a quarter turn after finger tight, or for high pressure lines tighten enough so that the tube can't turn by hand then a quarter turn.
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Old 05-09-2010, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by captain454 View Post
That's right, the Parker "off brand" Swagelok stuff works just as well. It's the swagelok designs that are awesome, I meant to say. But yeah, they just work so well, I wish everything used them, my car, my house plumbing... eh... maybe that's overkill! I've been using SS tubing and swagelok for years now for assembling everything from CVD gas reactors and manifolds, liquid cooling systems, you name it... they never fail or leak.

As far as tightening, most of the stuff I've used just says to tighten down as hard as you can by hand, and then turn 90, 180 or whatever degrees to secure (depends on fitting size and material).
Funny thing you mentioned plumbing your house with Swagelok... One of my instrument techs on a project got caught stealing LOTS of fittings, tubing and Swagelok "cajun" hoses. The hoses he took were all 3/8 with tube ends on them to mate to the Swagelok tube fittings. Mind you these hoses are teflon lined and reinforced with stainless steel braid and made to withstand 1200 PSI and temps up to 450 deg F . Each hose was about $150 each at a length of only 24 inches!. This guy plumbed every sink and toilet in his house with this stuff, and his shop sink and shower! He also took over $2k worth of 1/2 fittings, and tubing, including TEEs, 90s and couplers, a 1/2 tee in swagelok is about 50 bux, with these fittings he plumbed all his main water lines and used 1/2 316 instrument tubing! Talk about overkill, he landed a felony conviction as well, that was well deserved and not overkill.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:43 PM
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6 hrs of track time later and no fuel leaks!


My tranny cooler line repair ( rubber tubing) failed after track time this weekend, so sage locks to -6an it is!
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Old 08-30-2010, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by tjwong View Post
Funny thing you mentioned plumbing your house with Swagelok... One of my instrument techs on a project got caught stealing LOTS of fittings, tubing and Swagelok "cajun" hoses. The hoses he took were all 3/8 with tube ends on them to mate to the Swagelok tube fittings. Mind you these hoses are teflon lined and reinforced with stainless steel braid and made to withstand 1200 PSI and temps up to 450 deg F . Each hose was about $150 each at a length of only 24 inches!. This guy plumbed every sink and toilet in his house with this stuff, and his shop sink and shower! He also took over $2k worth of 1/2 fittings, and tubing, including TEEs, 90s and couplers, a 1/2 tee in swagelok is about 50 bux, with these fittings he plumbed all his main water lines and used 1/2 316 instrument tubing! Talk about overkill, he landed a felony conviction as well, that was well deserved and not overkill.
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:02 PM
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This is great, where can I buy one?

Thanks!
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