[Z06] --Important read-- Engine Oil Tech
10-23-2012, 01:04 PM
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
--Important read-- Engine Oil Tech
This is something that everyone needs to read, if you are racing your car or just taking it to car shows your engine oil is the life blood that keeps your car running.
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
The more aggressive your setup, or the harder you drive your car, the oil you use becomes even more important.
Over the last 10 years, We have recorded approximately 10 failed lifters from customers in the US with our cam kits. We sell on average 150-200 cam kits per year, and more cams by themselves. 6 of these have been in the last 12 months.
Doing testing and research with oil companies, Comp Cams, and also with some of our partners in the turbo production the newer 'EPA approved' oils are reducing the anti wear additive packages more so every year and are increasing the amount of detergents in the oil. While this might sound good to keep the inside of your engine clean it is not helping on keeping the oil protecting like it should.
That is why it is more important now more so than ever for those of you tracking your car, installing bigger cams, turbo's and superchargers that you run an oil that will hold up and protect your investment.
With any of our cam kits we highly suggest the use of a quality oil with a high content of Zinc and Phosphorus. For those racing the car, a racing oil should be used. Do keep in mind most racing oils are 100% detergent free and will need to be changed frequently.
Some oils to use would be RedLine, Amsoil, Joe Gibb, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 series.
Further Reading...
http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/trainingcenter/tech/streetoils.htm
http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
Last edited by Anthony @ LGMotorsports; 10-23-2012 at 01:20 PM.
10-26-2012, 01:39 PM
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Another tech article released by Joe Gibb today.
http://lgmotorsports.com/gallery/alb...tech_sheet.pdf
http://lgmotorsports.com/gallery/alb...tech_sheet.pdf
10-26-2012, 02:38 PM
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St. Jude Donor '12
So, in the future they will take over the maintenence (and beefing or rebuilding) my LS7 when warranty is done.
Anthony, there is another thread topic "pinging" where your spark plug post was mentioned. Might want to peek at it.
Last edited by tim414; 10-26-2012 at 02:42 PM.
10-26-2012, 04:58 PM
#8
Safety Car
what about the whole "GM approved oil" and warranty? Not sure how tight they are about it, just thinking out loud.
oh and do you guys (Lou et al) have a specific ppm recommendation for ZDDP/phosphor amount? I know the new "gas mileage" oils are very low (500-600) where the standard M1 5W30 is 800/800.
oh and do you guys (Lou et al) have a specific ppm recommendation for ZDDP/phosphor amount? I know the new "gas mileage" oils are very low (500-600) where the standard M1 5W30 is 800/800.
10-26-2012, 05:27 PM
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Something tells me if you are running a cam and supporting modifications, you would not be concerned about the GM warranty on the engine any longer.
The GM approved oil is approved by GM for stock vehicle's and in accordance to the EPA's regulation for emissions and such. So I would take the notion to say that that recomendation would not have the modifiers' best interests in wear protection in mind.
The GM approved oil is approved by GM for stock vehicle's and in accordance to the EPA's regulation for emissions and such. So I would take the notion to say that that recomendation would not have the modifiers' best interests in wear protection in mind.
10-26-2012, 07:37 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
I do not know if I am man enough
I only have 90 hp per cylinder. What about adding like a Comp Cams additive that has extra zinc and phosphorus to the Mobil 1 getting you to that 1,300 ppm number?
10-26-2012, 07:40 PM
#13
Race Director
10-26-2012, 11:12 PM
#14
Safety Car
this was directed towards this comment. You may not be modified at all and driving it harder, therefore, it would be in ones best interest to use a better oil...hence why I asked...
Would love to see the ppm number that would be said to be "appropriate".
11-05-2012, 06:25 PM
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Let's look a bit more in depth on why these 'micro brew' oils are so much better than say a normal Mobile 1.
Within the U.S. right now you may think you only have the choice of conventional and synthetic engine oils to choose from. While that is partially true the base stock that the oil is produced from can also radically change the properties of the oil itself, synthetic or not.
Within the Synthetic oils you have three classifications, Group 3, Group 4, and Group 5 oils. Group 3 oils are re-refined petroleum products and are the least expensive until recently they could not be classified as synthetic. Group 4 oils are PAO oils (Poly-Alpha-Olefine) and they are a synthesized petroleum product that has better protection against heat, oxidation, and better flow at low temperatures. The draw back to this oil is they need plenty of oil pressure to provide an effective protection film on the parts they protect. Both Group 3 and Group 4 oils are mineral based.
Lastly we have the Group 5 oils, which are Ester based (diester, polyoesters, and complex esters) which are vegetable and animal based
Red Line and Motul engine oils are currently the only two engine oils you can obtain that start from a Synthetic Ester base. This Ester base forms and electro-chemical bond with your engine components so there is an even less chance of metal to metal contact on cold start up or low oil pressure conditions. This bond is something that the Group 3 and Group 4 oils do not have because of their base material make up even if they have a higher level of ZDDP additives. The other big benefit of an Ester based oil is that they have very little in the way of deposits if they do burn under extreme conditions so there is no build up inside hot engine parts, and this is especially important for those running turbos on their cars.
Further reading on Esters
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...94#Post1252272
Within the U.S. right now you may think you only have the choice of conventional and synthetic engine oils to choose from. While that is partially true the base stock that the oil is produced from can also radically change the properties of the oil itself, synthetic or not.
Within the Synthetic oils you have three classifications, Group 3, Group 4, and Group 5 oils. Group 3 oils are re-refined petroleum products and are the least expensive until recently they could not be classified as synthetic. Group 4 oils are PAO oils (Poly-Alpha-Olefine) and they are a synthesized petroleum product that has better protection against heat, oxidation, and better flow at low temperatures. The draw back to this oil is they need plenty of oil pressure to provide an effective protection film on the parts they protect. Both Group 3 and Group 4 oils are mineral based.
Lastly we have the Group 5 oils, which are Ester based (diester, polyoesters, and complex esters) which are vegetable and animal based
Red Line and Motul engine oils are currently the only two engine oils you can obtain that start from a Synthetic Ester base. This Ester base forms and electro-chemical bond with your engine components so there is an even less chance of metal to metal contact on cold start up or low oil pressure conditions. This bond is something that the Group 3 and Group 4 oils do not have because of their base material make up even if they have a higher level of ZDDP additives. The other big benefit of an Ester based oil is that they have very little in the way of deposits if they do burn under extreme conditions so there is no build up inside hot engine parts, and this is especially important for those running turbos on their cars.
Further reading on Esters
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...94#Post1252272
11-05-2012, 06:44 PM
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
what about the whole "GM approved oil" and warranty? Not sure how tight they are about it, just thinking out loud.
oh and do you guys (Lou et al) have a specific ppm recommendation for ZDDP/phosphor amount? I know the new "gas mileage" oils are very low (500-600) where the standard M1 5W30 is 800/800.
oh and do you guys (Lou et al) have a specific ppm recommendation for ZDDP/phosphor amount? I know the new "gas mileage" oils are very low (500-600) where the standard M1 5W30 is 800/800.
See the post below, while the ZDDP is important there is more to oils than just that.