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[Z06] Katech Titanium/Molybdenum direct replacement LS7 exhaust valves

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Old 12-09-2012, 09:22 PM
  #101  
LeftLane Z06
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Originally Posted by tim414
Can't blame anyone/company for watching where their bread comes and gets buttered as well...lol

Add; there are many who want this product....hell, if I were building mine at the moment I would jump on these.
Too bad GM not offering any kind of fix/part!!!
No bread...no butter!
Old 12-10-2012, 12:17 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Wass
Jason made it very clear in his first post, "Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying we think there's anything wrong with the factory LS7 exhaust valves for the application, but sometimes you've got to give the people what they want."

I've been reading all of these valve threads on the forum, and many of us do not want to use the factory exhaust valves in a rebuild (I have not decided yet). These are an alternative to SS valves, and I think it is a smart business move on his part to offer them to whoever may be interested.
Old 12-10-2012, 06:18 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by Wass
Jason made it very clear in his first post, "Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying we think there's anything wrong with the factory LS7 exhaust valves for the application, but sometimes you've got to give the people what they want."

I've been reading all of these valve threads on the forum, and many of us do not want to use the factory exhaust valves in a rebuild (I have not decided yet). These are an alternative to SS valves, and I think it is a smart business move on his part to offer them to whoever may be interested.
There is nothing wrong with addressing an existing market demand.
Old 12-10-2012, 08:24 AM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by JetBlue427
so these are compatible with both stock guides and bronze guides? and how come you cant source the factory powdered metal guides for repair?
They need to use bronze guides.

We can get stock guides from LPE.


Originally Posted by 08VRZ06
Jason

Will these have the hardened steel tips or run with lash caps like the factory intakes???

Mark
Yes they will have steel tips. Our Ti/Mo intake valves have steel tips also to eliminate the lash cap.

Originally Posted by Michael_D
OE seats Jason, or would you suggest Moldstar 90? Do you know what EGT's these will tollerate?
OE seats will be fine. 1600F. They are fine for NA/SC application but turbo should get Inconel.

Originally Posted by MarkC
Jason, can you make these values available to WCCH? Also, the solid S/S values require new springs. If we can use the old (OEM) springs because thes TI values a 6 g liter than OEM we will save another $300 or so. Count me in. I was planning to pull my heads in January. Thanks for this great solution.

Mark
Yes, judging by the response of this thread I think it's obvious that we should produce them, so WCCH can source them or you can order from us and drop ship to them.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:54 AM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by vertC6
When I spoke with Phil Martin he said as long as you micro polish the face, PVD-CN coating on the face of the valve, and then micro polished the valve again it would work fine as long as you did not run juice or FI. RW Tech on speed talk confirmed that with me.
We tried polishing also. We saw improvement, but it was not to the standard that we were looking for.

Originally Posted by Mark200X
Jason,

If I rebuild my heads vs bone stock replacements (warranty) then my preference would be a replacement non-soduim lightweight exhaust valve as you outlined in your OP. So, mark me down as interested.

I would echo JetBlue427's question on OEM guide compatibility (as I prefer to go that route).

I presume there is no fatigue or heat issue in using these in normally aspirated street use for, say, 50K miles?
Answered in a previous post - bronze guides only.

These are basically the same as the OEM intake valve, CrN coated Ti, but with molybdenum stems, so the longevity should be the same as stock.

Originally Posted by LT5 John
Jason,
I am going with Brodix heads from WCCH. Can the Ti exh valves be sent to Richard to install in a set of Brodix heads??...
I don't know a lot about the Brodix product, but as long as the valve sizes are the same I don't see why not.

Originally Posted by Unreal
What is the service life like for a Ti exhaust valve on a street car? I hope these work out great but people maybe too excited if this is basically a "race" only part.
A long time. 10,000 miles of C5-R racing with the same combination. That translates to hundreds of thousands of street miles in my eyes.

Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Have you Spintron tested these ?

Does running a LIGHTER valve have any potential affects on the valve train balance ?


DH
Not yet but we would like to. Our engineers were comfortable with this race program dropping 8g without a re-test, but it is something that we would like to do.

Originally Posted by tjwong
How does Ti hold up in supercharged and turbo applications? They would be the trick setup in a NA application but not so sure about a turbo or SC application.
Originally Posted by vertC6
You don't want to use them in any N02 or FI setup.
Supercharged would be fine but not turbo. 1600F is the bogey for EGT limit.

Originally Posted by forg0tmypen
The irony here is that OP (Jason) says you don't even need them. Knowing this forum, that might be the best way to market them
Funny guy.

Originally Posted by EViL427
This is precisely where the Ferrea Super Alloy valves shine. They are designed for the high temperatures. That's what Ragin' Racin' used in my car.

Jason, curious, but I see a lot of talk about how SS valves are not necessarily the be-all, end-all solution because of extra weight, but I see very little discussion about the Super Alloy valves, which are not SS. Thoughts on those and how they would compare with your solution? I am a fan of Katech and would have possibly considered these had they been available.

Thanks.
Super Alloy or other brand name known as Inconel, are heavy. We needed to run them in a twin turbo LS7 application before so we spin tested them. There was actually an article on it here: http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...e/viewall.html

We found that the exhaust valve went out of control at 6900RPM so we dialed back the camshaft lobe aggressiveness until we got it under control.

Originally Posted by RFE-57
Jason,

Are these new valves solid? And what intake valves would you pair with them?
THX
B
Yes, solid. We would use our Ti/Mo intake valve already in stock.

Originally Posted by zman62
There will always be spectators and players. The players did not want to be a victim so they went with the ss set up. They work well. Are they heavier? yes. However with a heavier spring there is no floating and the motor revs just as before. Some of us have torn them down after the install to double check and gather data. All is good.

I am sure the Katech valve is great as well. Due to the weight savings no need to go with a heavier spring. As time goes on there will continue to be a new fix. The one thing you dont want to do is sit and wait. If you do there is a good chance you will end up being a spectator/victim.
You don't know this for sure without spin testing. They could be floating when the power is dropping off at redline and you don't know. Or they could be floating a couple hundred RPM over redline. We look for at least 800RPM safety margin between redline and valvetrain limit.

Originally Posted by forg0tmypen
Jason will be back Monday to answer all questions. Most forget this is his job...hobby as well but a job no less. Let the man enjoy his weekend.
Thanks buddy

Originally Posted by jbs02somws6
Sorry, but the fact that Katech is even mentioning that they are prepping to mass produce these new light-weight exhaust valves for our ls7's is proof, IMO, that the stock valves are the culprit aka garbage relating to the stock valve failures, guides out-of-spec, bla bla bla. They of course can't just come out and say that after years of denying it, but come on, where there's smoke usually a fire lies (valves breaking).

Also, after years of Katech saying stock ex valves were not the problem and saying how they were perfectly fine to use in conjunction with bronze guides, why now is Katech offer these new ex valves??? Is it realllllllly doing a favor to all us Z owners (a light-weight $$$ alternative)?? Or is it making a profit off of fear and paranoia while confusing the fu#k out of us by swerving on this whole ordeal???

Just my first gut reaction to this thread....
Your argument is refuted by a single fact. We are still using factory exhaust valves in our packages (and warrantying it). This is simply a proposed option for those who desire it.

Saying we're trying to profit off fear and paranoia is a bit of a stretch. I'm just saying we have these valves, are you interested. Not the sky is falling and you must buy these valves or your engine will blow up. Big difference there.

Originally Posted by FNBADAZ06
I think your gut reaction is wrong in this case, but it's MHO.

The very first sentence in the thread say it all very clearly....

"We made these Ti/Mo exhaust valves for a race program and we could make more if you guys are interested."

I think you'd agree that their 24 hour endurance program requires a different mindset when it comes to durability and performance.
To offer something from their racing program as an alternative to those who live in fear of the OEM two-piece valve, IMHO, does not in any way suggest to me that they are backing away from their feeling that the OEM valve is fine for street duty.

THe vendor bashing here is getting out of hand. No one....EVEN KATECH, is saying that you must purchase these valves. They are simply offering an alternative for those who are weight concious of their valve train and want to use a single piece valve for their engine.

People who wish to use stainless steel valves, knock yourself out.
Why come in Jason's thread and bash Katech for offering parts to the consumer ?

Well put.
Old 12-10-2012, 09:21 AM
  #106  
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You don't know this for sure without spin testing. They could be floating when the power is dropping off at redline and you don't know. Or they could be floating a couple hundred RPM over redline. We look for at least 800RPM safety margin between redline and valvetrain limit.
QUOTE...

Has it been confirmed that with a stronger spring that valves are floating?
Old 12-10-2012, 09:33 AM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by zman62
You don't know this for sure without spin testing. They could be floating when the power is dropping off at redline and you don't know. Or they could be floating a couple hundred RPM over redline. We look for at least 800RPM safety margin between redline and valvetrain limit.
QUOTE...

Has it been confirmed that with a stronger spring that valves are floating?
It needs to be tested. One variable change though means it has to be tested again. If you change the camshaft it needs to be tested again. It's not just float I'm concerned with, it's bounce. A heavier valve may not float with a heavier spring, but when it closes it can bounce which beats up the seats and the rest of the valvetrain.
Old 12-10-2012, 09:41 AM
  #108  
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While I think it's great to have alternatives, I think a lot of people are going to balk at the price.

$2400.00 just for valves, is going to deter a lot of people.
Old 12-10-2012, 09:53 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by '06 Quicksilver Z06
While I think it's great to have alternatives, I think a lot of people are going to balk at the price.

$2400.00 just for valves, is going to deter a lot of people.
$2400 if you decided to replace the intake valves too.

As other's have said, with the Ti exhaust valves, you can use the OEM beehive springs with a moderate cam selection (such as the Katech Torquer) which will offset a percentage of the cost. Me personally, I have the Katech sourced PSI 1511 beehives which will compliment the Katech Torquer first gen 110 cam I've been sitting on for two years.

Waiting for a light weight alternative for the exhaust valve to appear on the market has worked in my favor, IMHO.
Old 12-10-2012, 10:08 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by '06 Quicksilver Z06
While I think it's great to have alternatives, I think a lot of people are going to balk at the price.

$2400.00 just for valves, is going to deter a lot of people.
Sure, it may. This isn't for everybody. Let's rewind a little though. Back in the early 2000s people were buying C5-R heads which were extremely expensive. Today we have a production LS7 head that was designed off the C5-R port, with Ti/Mo intake and exhaust valves and bronze guides like the C5-R, and accepts factory rocker arms. We're pretty close to the content of C5-R heads at a fraction of the price.
Old 12-10-2012, 10:09 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by FNBADAZ06
$2400 if you decided to replace the intake valves too.

As other's have said, with the Ti exhaust valves, you can use the OEM beehive springs with a moderate cam selection (such as the Katech Torquer) which will offset a percentage of the cost. Me personally, I have the Katech sourced PSI 1511 beehives which will compliment the Katech Torquer first gen 110 cam I've been sitting on for two years.

Waiting for a light weight alternative for the exhaust valve to appear on the market has worked in my favor, IMHO.
I think you mean OEM-style beehive springs? Stock springs will not work with the Torquer. You do need the PSI1511.
Old 12-10-2012, 10:16 AM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Katech_Jason
I think you mean OEM-style beehive springs? Stock springs will not work with the Torquer. You do need the PSI1511.
yes, thanks for the correction.
Old 12-10-2012, 10:23 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by '06 Quicksilver Z06
While I think it's great to have alternatives, I think a lot of people are going to balk at the price.

$2400.00 just for valves, is going to deter a lot of people.
Stock intake valves with stock guides from LPE would likely be a more reasonable 'fix' than combining the stock intake valve (that NEEDS to be polished) with a guide it's not designed to use.

Then, the ti exhaust valves only add an incremental cost of around $900 to the fix using bronze guides...not cheap but heck when you've got it all apart and IF you're parinoid of the stock exhaust valves, sure seems like a pretty reasonable alternative 'fix'.

Cheers, Paul.
Old 12-10-2012, 12:41 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Katech_Jason
Yes, judging by the response of this thread I think it's obvious that we should produce them, so WCCH can source them or you can order from us and drop ship to them.
Thanks for the information Jason. What is the general availability time line for a set of these valves? Days, Weeks, Months?
Old 12-10-2012, 12:45 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by SmokinZ
Thanks for the information Jason. What is the general availability time line for a set of these valves? Days, Weeks, Months?
4-5 weeks/batch. With the holidays coming up that will be extended though.
Old 12-10-2012, 01:17 PM
  #116  
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If I understand correctly the factory intake valves are Titanium and the Molybdenum is recommended for the softer bronze guide.

If you were to stay with the OEM PM guides is it possible to offer a Titanium exh. valve without the coating? If so would the heat from being on the ehaust side be a problem?
Old 12-10-2012, 01:34 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by 93Polo
If you were to stay with the OEM PM guides is it possible to offer a Titanium exh. valve without the coating? If so would the heat from being on the ehaust side be a problem?


I would like to know the same. If I try to get a set of LS7 heads with the factory guides, what coating on the Ti valves would be desirable? Is there a finish level to the Ti stem that would also be advisable for the PM factory guides?

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Old 12-10-2012, 01:46 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by 93Polo
If I understand correctly the factory intake valves are Titanium and the Molybdenum is recommended for the softer bronze guide.

If you were to stay with the OEM PM guides is it possible to offer a Titanium exh. valve without the coating? If so would the heat from being on the ehaust side be a problem?
Originally Posted by WhiteDiamond


I would like to know the same. If I try to get a set of LS7 heads with the factory guides, what coating on the Ti valves would be desirable? Is there a finish level to the Ti stem that would also be advisable for the PM factory guides?
I suppose that could be done. They would still have the chrome nitride coating, but eliminate the backcut on the stem and molybdenum coating. Removing that step would reduce cost.
Old 12-10-2012, 03:04 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by Wass
Jason made it very clear in his first post, "Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying we think there's anything wrong with the factory LS7 exhaust valves for the application, but sometimes you've got to give the people what they want."

I've been reading all of these valve threads on the forum, and many of us do not want to use the factory exhaust valves in a rebuild (I have not decided yet). These are an alternative to SS valves, and I think it is a smart business move on his part to offer them to whoever may be interested.
Bingo!!!!!! 100% Smart business decision all the way around..And offering a peace of mind remedy for anyone who feels there is a need to beef up there valvetrain. IM so thankfull i met jason on this forum last january! I was getting sick reading about this valve issue last christmas and feeling bad about my purchase of my 2009 Z06.. I thought i had bought a lemon!!!!! Now its christmas time again and i have the best christmas present ever for myself. (after the love of my children and jesus christ loves me ) I have # 56 Katech sitting in my garage and she is the most beautifull automobile iv ever owned, period..And my heads are stock! Iv been assured they are good and not to worry. Bravo to you Jason for trying to give the people what they want
Old 12-11-2012, 01:07 PM
  #120  
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What about leaving the intake side stock and replacing the exhaust guides w/bronze and katech ti valves.


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