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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
Those chambers look fantastic. No potential detonation points and smooth transitions everywhere. That goofy nub by the plug hole on the oem castings is gone. I've often wondered if it serves a purpose, but if Tony gets rid of it, it must not be needed. Time to get out the die grinder I think......
Those chambers look fantastic. No potential detonation points and smooth transitions everywhere. That goofy nub by the plug hole on the oem castings is gone. I've often wondered if it serves a purpose, but if Tony gets rid of it, it must not be needed. Time to get out the die grinder I think......
Cleaning block today. I started with using acetone and blue shop rags but rags were falling apart and some small pieces were falling into coolant passages so I swapped to micro fiber towels. Then I used 320 wet sand paper with WD40 and a sanding block. I did a cross hatch sanding pattern. Here are some pics let me know if everything looks good. I also cleaned off pistons and check my piston to deck height. It looks like I'm .02-.04 out of the hole.
Awesome build. Will you have before and after track numbers (1/4 mile)? I have an LS7 in my firebird with cathedral heads (TFS 235) and keep wondering if the LS7 style heads would be significantly better.
Awesome build. Will you have before and after track numbers (1/4 mile)? I have an LS7 in my firebird with cathedral heads (TFS 235) and keep wondering if the LS7 style heads would be significantly better.
Thanks. Unfortunately I do not have any track times. I've never even been on a track. Hopefully soon I will start. Talk to Tony Mamo about your car he is one of the best.
Thanks Brandon! I originally was just getting heads from Tony and some how over a month the list just grew. I was going to use stock lifters.
Yeah my list grew as well to once I picked up my heads from Tony. Your build list is awesome and now that I reflect on my build I wish I would have started with Tony's recommendations verses ending my build with them. Post up your build results once you get that bad boy finished.
Yeah my list grew as well to once I picked up my heads from Tony. Your build list is awesome and now that I reflect on my build I wish I would have started with Tony's recommendations verses ending my build with them. Post up your build results once you get that bad boy finished.
Tony is very convincing. Plus some of the results are amazing. I'll post update dates as I go. I'm still learning on this one and hoping for guidance as this build goes incase I missed something. I rather do it all the way the first time.
Cleaning block today. I started with using acetone and blue shop rags but rags were falling apart and some small pieces were falling into coolant passages so I swapped to micro fiber towels. Then I used 320 wet sand paper with WD40 and a sanding block. I did a cross hatch sanding pattern. Here are some pics let me know if everything looks good. I also cleaned off pistons and check my piston to deck height. It looks like I'm .02-.04 out of the hole.
I cringe whenever I hear about abrasives getting anywhere near an assembled short block...... I know some do what you did without any issues, but I still don’t like it. I’d wipe the cylinders with some oil, then rotate the crank a few times. Clean off the residue, then spray some motor cleaner around the piston tops and repeat. Just a precautionary measure to make sure any grit from the paper is gathered up and removed. Also make sure to run a thread cleaning tap down the head bolt holes, then blow them all out with compressed air. A nozzle with a long attachment that will reach the bottom of the holes works well. Just wrap a rag around the nozzle to catch all crap. It’s very important to get the holes clean and completely dry.
I cringe whenever I hear about abrasives getting anywhere near an assembled short block...... I know some do what you did without any issues, but I still don’t like it. I’d wipe the cylinders with some oil, then rotate the crank a few times. Clean off the residue, then spray some motor cleaner around the piston tops and repeat. Just a precautionary measure to make sure any grit from the paper is gathered up and removed. Also make sure to run a thread cleaning tap down the head bolt holes, then blow them all out with compressed air. A nozzle with a long attachment that will reach the bottom of the holes works well. Just wrap a rag around the nozzle to catch all crap. It’s very important to get the holes clean and completely dry.
I sprayed everything down with WD and cleaned real well with new micro fiber towels. Also cycled the pistons will I was checking the piston height. I also used a good shop vac to suck everything up. Even sucked out coolant fluid. Before I put my heads on I will chase head threads and make sure 100% clean/dry. Thanks for the heads up. Was it you who used the comp cams degree wheel in car?
I have used a degree wheel with the engine in the car, but probably not the guy you are thinking of. I don't believe I've ever spoke to that procedure. Do you need help with that?
I have used a degree wheel with the engine in the car, but probably not the guy you are thinking of. I don't believe I've ever spoke to that procedure. Do you need help with that?
I saw it in someone's thread. I was thinking of buying the kit and just wanted some reviews on it.
I think the Comp kit is probably the best one going, but I'd opt for the 16" wheel. I friggin hate those little wheels. I like how the Comp kit comes with a crank adapter. Nothing more frustrating than having a wheel that moves on you after you find TDC / 0. For a mag base, Noga is the best, but you have to bolt a steel plate down to use them, so the dial mounts that have metric threads do come in handy on LS short blocks. The Comp kits come with the threaded dial holders.
I think the Comp kit is probably the best one going, but I'd opt for the 16" wheel. I friggin hate those little wheels. I like how the Comp kit comes with a crank adapter. Nothing more frustrating than having a wheel that moves on you after you find TDC / 0. For a mag base, Noga is the best, but you have to bolt a steel plate down to use them, so the dial mounts that have metric threads do come in handy on LS short blocks. The Comp kits come with the threaded dial holders.
Ok so today I removed the balancer. I opted to slide power steering rack over. That was not messy at all. I put gloves over lines and rag on rack. The next hurdle was removing oil pump. I tried to remove with out loosing oil pan bolts but it didn't want to come off and I didn't want to rip gasket so I loosed oil pan bolts maybe an 1/8". It slid right off after that no problem. I then removed my cam. Here are some pics of my cam bearing. Let me know what you guys think.
04-13-2017, 08:26 PM
