[Z06] No Tach - Service Active Handling - Running Rough
#21
Team Owner
Make sure you pick up a battery tender if this car isn't your daily driver. These cars will drain a battery if it sits for prolonged periods (C5Z's were worse IMO), and weak batteries will cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. Keep us posted with your outcome.
#22
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Yah I have a starter on order I just need to get this low pig up in the air to change it. Any suggestions ?
Hot starts are a bitch I'm wondering if I can find a starter blanket
Hot starts are a bitch I'm wondering if I can find a starter blanket
#23
Team Owner
DEI Starter Heat Shield Wraps...but unless it has long tube headers, the heat really shouldn't be an issue.
Last edited by MTPZ06; 10-16-2017 at 09:44 PM.
#24
I am currently in the EXACT same boat. Ill find out today if the battery did the job and if I'm going to replace the starter too with the DEI heat wrap.
#26
Pro
Same thing with my '06 34k miles on Second engine. Problem existed on original motor as well. I purchased an MSD High Power Starter, new batteries and still persists.
It's ONLY when heat soaked. Slow dragging start.....then about 30% of time will go into weird limp mode seems like. RPM tach will not work 100% of time when this happens.
It's ONLY when heat soaked. Slow dragging start.....then about 30% of time will go into weird limp mode seems like. RPM tach will not work 100% of time when this happens.
#28
Drifting
I went through this in the 70's with a hot rodded 454 LS5 I had. Tried everything just like you guys, new starters guaranteed to fix it, heat shields, batteries, bigger batteries....... If you went somewhere in the summer in it you had to plan to stay at least 30 minutes before trying to start the car. Made 7 Eleven stops worthless unless someone was with you to stay with the running car. I did finally find a solution, got married and gave the car to my new wife.....she still hates that car
But seriously, I would try new battery cables next.
Steve
But seriously, I would try new battery cables next.
Steve
#29
Melting Slicks
I would check the cable up by the engine fuse box too. Mine got loose over time. Pull off cover on fuse box and you will see cable lug right there.
#30
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Update :
Same same on hot day. Drove it today and on my lunch I ran errands And third time it did the slow start barely start limp mode.
New battery is installed.
Next on the list is tracing the cables and installing the starter. I hope this fixes it. I might buy a heat shield for it as this sucks driving this pig like this in limp mode. How is this not mentioned more or is there only small percentage of cars affected?
Thanks
Same same on hot day. Drove it today and on my lunch I ran errands And third time it did the slow start barely start limp mode.
New battery is installed.
Next on the list is tracing the cables and installing the starter. I hope this fixes it. I might buy a heat shield for it as this sucks driving this pig like this in limp mode. How is this not mentioned more or is there only small percentage of cars affected?
Thanks
#31
Pro
Brand new high torque starter MSD Dynaforce......still in exact same boat. When cool starts up like a champ. After a good heat soak, slow start, No RPM Tach, No power steering, then stuck in some weird limp mode. Cannot rev above 4K without hesitation and rough running.
let it cool down and starts right back up like a champ. New battery and brand new Dynaforce $300 starter.
let it cool down and starts right back up like a champ. New battery and brand new Dynaforce $300 starter.
#32
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Virginia Beach, VA & Port Charlotte, FL (snowbird)
Posts: 4,407
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I hate to see it here when people just start throwing parts at a car without doing the proper troubleshooting first. In this situation the correct voltage checks probably would have revealed the REAL problem.
I would have...
1) Cut 2 10' lengths of #16 or so stranded wire.
2) Connected one wire to the positive terminal of the battery.
3) Connected the other wire to the main battery terminal on the starter.
4) Hook a multimeter to the other ends of both wires, meter on the proper DC voltage
5) Have a friend crank car (when hot to duplicate problem) and read voltage.
Any voltage drop between battery and starter will be reflected in the meter reading. For instance, If the battery reads 12 volts and you read 2 volts on the meter then you're getting only 10 volts to the starter.
On the other hand, if the battery is up to snuff and you read zero volts on the meter while cranking then I'd look to internal engine problems (engine rotating assembly binding). If that's the case you're chasing the rabbit down the wrong hole and most likely an engine tear-down is in order. You can PM me for more info if you like...
I would have...
1) Cut 2 10' lengths of #16 or so stranded wire.
2) Connected one wire to the positive terminal of the battery.
3) Connected the other wire to the main battery terminal on the starter.
4) Hook a multimeter to the other ends of both wires, meter on the proper DC voltage
5) Have a friend crank car (when hot to duplicate problem) and read voltage.
Any voltage drop between battery and starter will be reflected in the meter reading. For instance, If the battery reads 12 volts and you read 2 volts on the meter then you're getting only 10 volts to the starter.
On the other hand, if the battery is up to snuff and you read zero volts on the meter while cranking then I'd look to internal engine problems (engine rotating assembly binding). If that's the case you're chasing the rabbit down the wrong hole and most likely an engine tear-down is in order. You can PM me for more info if you like...
#33
Brand new high torque starter MSD Dynaforce......still in exact same boat. When cool starts up like a champ. After a good heat soak, slow start, No RPM Tach, No power steering, then stuck in some weird limp mode. Cannot rev above 4K without hesitation and rough running.
let it cool down and starts right back up like a champ. New battery and brand new Dynaforce $300 starter.
let it cool down and starts right back up like a champ. New battery and brand new Dynaforce $300 starter.
#34
Le Mans Master
check your grounds, and even add an extra ground to a clean connection point(no paint/rustproofing)
#35
Pro
Will report back when this is resolved.
#36
I hate to see it here when people just start throwing parts at a car without doing the proper troubleshooting first. In this situation the correct voltage checks probably would have revealed the REAL problem.
I would have...
1) Cut 2 10' lengths of #16 or so stranded wire.
2) Connected one wire to the positive terminal of the battery.
3) Connected the other wire to the main battery terminal on the starter.
4) Hook a multimeter to the other ends of both wires, meter on the proper DC voltage
5) Have a friend crank car (when hot to duplicate problem) and read voltage.
Any voltage drop between battery and starter will be reflected in the meter reading. For instance, If the battery reads 12 volts and you read 2 volts on the meter then you're getting only 10 volts to the starter.
On the other hand, if the battery is up to snuff and you read zero volts on the meter while cranking then I'd look to internal engine problems (engine rotating assembly binding). If that's the case you're chasing the rabbit down the wrong hole and most likely an engine tear-down is in order. You can PM me for more info if you like...
I would have...
1) Cut 2 10' lengths of #16 or so stranded wire.
2) Connected one wire to the positive terminal of the battery.
3) Connected the other wire to the main battery terminal on the starter.
4) Hook a multimeter to the other ends of both wires, meter on the proper DC voltage
5) Have a friend crank car (when hot to duplicate problem) and read voltage.
Any voltage drop between battery and starter will be reflected in the meter reading. For instance, If the battery reads 12 volts and you read 2 volts on the meter then you're getting only 10 volts to the starter.
On the other hand, if the battery is up to snuff and you read zero volts on the meter while cranking then I'd look to internal engine problems (engine rotating assembly binding). If that's the case you're chasing the rabbit down the wrong hole and most likely an engine tear-down is in order. You can PM me for more info if you like...
#37
Pro
No Clear Cut Solution yet ?? I’ve yet to see a thread detailing successful resolution. I’m still waiting to get mine to shop. It’s getting worse seems like an every day issue now. But if she cools off for an hour Bamn......starts right back up w RPM Tach working and drives perfect.
#38
Rt53vette
Update :
Same same on hot day. Drove it today and on my lunch I ran errands And third time it did the sloand installing the starter. I hope this fixes it. I might buy a heat shield for it as this sucks driving this pig like this in limp mode. How is this not mentioned more or is there only small percentage of cars affected?
Same same on hot day. Drove it today and on my lunch I ran errands And third time it did the sloand installing the starter. I hope this fixes it. I might buy a heat shield for it as this sucks driving this pig like this in limp mode. How is this not mentioned more or is there only small percentage of cars affected?
Thanks
#39
Pro
Darn, I just dropped mine at the dealer and took an Uber home, because the Tach was dead. Wish I had checked here first, but the car was also doing some limp mode stuff on the 1-2 shift, the steering wheel was hard to turn. The whole thing just gave me the creeps, and I am one month from an inspection due anyway.
Oh.. my battery is brand new, but has gone completely flat already once, due to lack of use. The Autozone guys recharged it for free once. Since then I have tried to drive once a week, just to keep it exercised.
Oh.. my battery is brand new, but has gone completely flat already once, due to lack of use. The Autozone guys recharged it for free once. Since then I have tried to drive once a week, just to keep it exercised.