New 427 Vert owner
10-31-2017, 12:13 PM
#42
Drifting
Apples and oranges, the 1.8 rockers and the high lift cam is completely different from your 2002 GMC with .490 lift and 1.7 rockers, and one Titanium rod costs as much as all 8 of those in the GMC cast rods. Parts that make you go faster typically are not a durable.
The main thing is the LS7 rods were fine until around 2012 when they changed manufactures from what I am told. The "new" rod tolerances were too tight on some motors. Also, they said they went with a new bearing that was lead free to meet European standards.
All that said it seems at least 25% + had a problem with the rods. Now that you have 7k miles you should be fine but you should still have the oil checked and pay attention to the Ti in the oil, shouldn't be above 2 PPM.
The main thing is the LS7 rods were fine until around 2012 when they changed manufactures from what I am told. The "new" rod tolerances were too tight on some motors. Also, they said they went with a new bearing that was lead free to meet European standards.
All that said it seems at least 25% + had a problem with the rods. Now that you have 7k miles you should be fine but you should still have the oil checked and pay attention to the Ti in the oil, shouldn't be above 2 PPM.
Hib at the Corvette Action Center reported that his GM replacement cylinder heads for his personal 2012 Z06 were out of spec when he received them from GM. My recent experience with my heads from my 2012 Z06 made in 03/12 with 6,500 miles on them were six guides out of GM spec across both heads, all but one was the intake.
As for the Ti connecting rod issue, I thought this stemmed from the switch to a new main bearing material? What I was never able to narrow down was when did GM fix this? i.e. did they go back to the previous main bearking material and or did any of these bearings make their way into 2014/15 Z/28's? Have not heard of very many LS7 powered Z/28 failures, but I know the valve guides in the heads were not immune.
11-02-2017, 04:17 PM
#43
Hi Bee Jay,
Most replacement engines under warranty seem to be 2013 which engine codes usually start like this: 10H1613.
Ask ifor a different LS7 millennium or you'll be back to where you started after 5,000 miles on your new engine.
Do you have yet any details regarding your engine failure? Sounds like another connection rod issue considering the low mileage. When was your oil last changed?
-L
Most replacement engines under warranty seem to be 2013 which engine codes usually start like this: 10H1613.
Ask ifor a different LS7 millennium or you'll be back to where you started after 5,000 miles on your new engine.
Do you have yet any details regarding your engine failure? Sounds like another connection rod issue considering the low mileage. When was your oil last changed?
-L
11-03-2017, 01:46 AM
#45
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Yes, as expected, the rod bearings failed. I'll be getting a new engine. I'm at SEMA, so I talked to a Chevy engine tech. As most of you know, to be able to sell the 427 Convertible in Europe, they had to switch to lead free bearings. Fortunately, the replacement blocks are Z28 long blocks with the leaded bearings. He recommended the Mobil 1 0w50 track oil and the DELCO filter. I should be back on the road in a week.
11-03-2017, 04:41 PM
#46
Le Mans Master
Good news on the replacement engine, BUT, you still have the concern about the heads. They WILL need to be inspected in (at a minimum) 7,000 miles.
if found out if spec by then, you'll need to pull them and have them reworked - you could just have them replaced with another stock set of heads, but all you are accomplishing with that methodology is resetting the clock - you aren't really fixing anything.
Better to have them reworked by shop like a AHP, even if you have to kick in some of your own cash if you aren't close to them. I'm here in Georgia as well, and I had multiple warranties (the factory and a GMPP plan from previous owner) yet I still came out of pocket to fix these myself. It's just the nature of these beasts. It could be worse, you could own a Porsche or Ferrari.
if found out if spec by then, you'll need to pull them and have them reworked - you could just have them replaced with another stock set of heads, but all you are accomplishing with that methodology is resetting the clock - you aren't really fixing anything.
Better to have them reworked by shop like a AHP, even if you have to kick in some of your own cash if you aren't close to them. I'm here in Georgia as well, and I had multiple warranties (the factory and a GMPP plan from previous owner) yet I still came out of pocket to fix these myself. It's just the nature of these beasts. It could be worse, you could own a Porsche or Ferrari.
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American Heritage (11-06-2017)
11-03-2017, 05:06 PM
#47
Safety Car
Yes, as expected, the rod bearings failed. I'll be getting a new engine. I'm at SEMA, so I talked to a Chevy engine tech. As most of you know, to be able to sell the 427 Convertible in Europe, they had to switch to lead free bearings. Fortunately, the replacement blocks are Z28 long blocks with the leaded bearings. He recommended the Mobil 1 0w50 track oil and the DELCO filter. I should be back on the road in a week.
Last edited by vertC6; 11-03-2017 at 05:35 PM.
11-03-2017, 07:40 PM
#48
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Good news on the replacement engine, BUT, you still have the concern about the heads. They WILL need to be inspected in (at a minimum) 7,000 miles.
if found out if spec by then, you'll need to pull them and have them reworked - you could just have them replaced with another stock set of heads, but all you are accomplishing with that methodology is resetting the clock - you aren't really fixing anything.
Better to have them reworked by shop like a AHP, even if you have to kick in some of your own cash if you aren't close to them. I'm here in Georgia as well, and I had multiple warranties (the factory and a GMPP plan from previous owner) yet I still came out of pocket to fix these myself. It's just the nature of these beasts. It could be worse, you could own a Porsche or Ferrari.
if found out if spec by then, you'll need to pull them and have them reworked - you could just have them replaced with another stock set of heads, but all you are accomplishing with that methodology is resetting the clock - you aren't really fixing anything.
Better to have them reworked by shop like a AHP, even if you have to kick in some of your own cash if you aren't close to them. I'm here in Georgia as well, and I had multiple warranties (the factory and a GMPP plan from previous owner) yet I still came out of pocket to fix these myself. It's just the nature of these beasts. It could be worse, you could own a Porsche or Ferrari.
11-03-2017, 09:08 PM
#49
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GM tech says use the 0w50 track oil. You say it's too thick for this engine. What makes you say that? I live in Cali where the temp is usually very mild. A mild frost and everyone freaks.
11-04-2017, 01:37 AM
#50
Team Owner
11-04-2017, 07:31 AM
#52
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Another vote for M1's 0w40.
BTW... Mobil 1 doesn't make a 0w 50. They have a 5w50 and a 15w50. Either you or the "GM tech" is wrong. If it's the tech then I wouldn't believe anything else they say. This GM bulletin you mentioned seems fishy anyways. If GM's lips are moving then they're lying.
BTW... Mobil 1 doesn't make a 0w 50. They have a 5w50 and a 15w50. Either you or the "GM tech" is wrong. If it's the tech then I wouldn't believe anything else they say. This GM bulletin you mentioned seems fishy anyways. If GM's lips are moving then they're lying.
11-04-2017, 09:44 AM
#53
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Another vote for M1's 0w40.
BTW... Mobil 1 doesn't make a 0w 50. They have a 5w50 and a 15w50. Either you or the "GM tech" is wrong. If it's the tech then I wouldn't believe anything else they say. This GM bulletin you mentioned seems fishy anyways. If GM's lips are moving then they're lying.
BTW... Mobil 1 doesn't make a 0w 50. They have a 5w50 and a 15w50. Either you or the "GM tech" is wrong. If it's the tech then I wouldn't believe anything else they say. This GM bulletin you mentioned seems fishy anyways. If GM's lips are moving then they're lying.
11-04-2017, 10:42 AM
#55
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Bottle of Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50 low-friction racing oil
Mobil 1 Racing™ 0W-50m
A wide-viscosity grade, low-friction racing oil for increased bearing protection when running at higher oil temperatures.Mobil 1 Racing™ 0W-50
A wide-viscosity grade, low-friction racing oil for increased bearing protection when running at higher oil temperatures.
Read more | Where to buy
Mobil 1 Racing™ 0W-50m
A wide-viscosity grade, low-friction racing oil for increased bearing protection when running at higher oil temperatures.Mobil 1 Racing™ 0W-50
A wide-viscosity grade, low-friction racing oil for increased bearing protection when running at higher oil temperatures.
Read more | Where to buy
11-06-2017, 02:49 PM
#56
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A while back porsche was having bottom end issues on some of their new cars, they ended up recalling a bunch and fixing them if memory serves me correctly. Would be nice if GM could do the same.
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
11-07-2017, 09:41 AM
#57
Safety Car
If you have a spare 30 minutes and want to learn all you need to know about oil read this blog. Check out number two on his list it’s a 0W 20
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
Last edited by vertC6; 11-07-2017 at 09:53 AM.
11-12-2017, 11:28 PM
#58
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I saw the torn down engine this weekend. The 5 and 6 titanium rod caps had turned a completely different color, they got so hot.
So the replacement motor will be a Z28 LS7 with the good leaded bearings and the valve guide fix. What did GM do to the Z28 LS7 to fix the valve guide issues? I get the car back this week, and yes, I bought the $5k 5 year extended warranty. A warranty new engine does not get a 3k mile warranty. That would be warranty on warranty. Now if I bought and paid for the replacement motor, I would get 3k miles. So, free motor, no free warranty. Pay for the motor, free warranty on the engine. The extended warranty I bought is GM bumper to bumper, though the bumpers are not covered. A lot is not covered.
Bee Jay
So the replacement motor will be a Z28 LS7 with the good leaded bearings and the valve guide fix. What did GM do to the Z28 LS7 to fix the valve guide issues? I get the car back this week, and yes, I bought the $5k 5 year extended warranty. A warranty new engine does not get a 3k mile warranty. That would be warranty on warranty. Now if I bought and paid for the replacement motor, I would get 3k miles. So, free motor, no free warranty. Pay for the motor, free warranty on the engine. The extended warranty I bought is GM bumper to bumper, though the bumpers are not covered. A lot is not covered.
Bee Jay
Last edited by Bee Jay; 11-12-2017 at 11:32 PM.
11-13-2017, 01:12 AM
#59
Team Owner
I saw the torn down engine this weekend. The 5 and 6 titanium rod caps had turned a completely different color, they got so hot.
So the replacement motor will be a Z28 LS7 with the good leaded bearings and the valve guide fix. What did GM do to the Z28 LS7 to fix the valve guide issues? I get the car back this week, and yes, I bought the $5k 5 year extended warranty. A warranty new engine does not get a 3k mile warranty. That would be warranty on warranty. Now if I bought and paid for the replacement motor, I would get 3k miles. So, free motor, no free warranty. Pay for the motor, free warranty on the engine. The extended warranty I bought is GM bumper to bumper, though the bumpers are not covered. A lot is not covered.
Bee Jay
So the replacement motor will be a Z28 LS7 with the good leaded bearings and the valve guide fix. What did GM do to the Z28 LS7 to fix the valve guide issues? I get the car back this week, and yes, I bought the $5k 5 year extended warranty. A warranty new engine does not get a 3k mile warranty. That would be warranty on warranty. Now if I bought and paid for the replacement motor, I would get 3k miles. So, free motor, no free warranty. Pay for the motor, free warranty on the engine. The extended warranty I bought is GM bumper to bumper, though the bumpers are not covered. A lot is not covered.
Bee Jay