Abs/ traction light on after installing new calipers
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Abs/ traction light on after installing new calipers
so I put my new calipers on today after having them off the car for a month. I just had rubber gloves over the lines. The master cylinder was empty. I bleed the brake RR-LF-LR-RF. I then took the car for drive to go break in the new brake pads. My warning lights were on the whole time. So I come back home and bleed again this time with ignition on car off. I got a couple bubbles out of front brakes. I then bleed them again with the car running. I got a little more from front brakes. My warning lights are still on. I put 50oz through the system. I did this the old fashion way with a helper. I’m really getting irritated with this car. I also noticed my thermostat housing is leaking. I installed a new thermostat not to long ago.
#3
Team Owner
Check the sensors, make sure they are all plugged in and not damaged.
#7
1/4 mile/AutoX
should use a Tech 2 or at least a pressure bleeder ?????
#9
1/4 mile/AutoX
#13
Moderator
Don't these cars have inner and outer pistons? If so the sequence is RR outer, RR inner, LR outer, LR inner, RF outer RF inner, LF outer, LF inner. You probably have air in the system.
Last edited by MasterDave; 12-13-2017 at 06:04 PM.
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
bleed the inner first then outer then inner then outer every time I did each brake. As of right now everything seems good. I do plan on doing stainless lines. Not sure why I didn’t this time smh
#15
Race Director
If you really don't need the SS lines you may save yourself some foul language for when you really need it. If you do change them out, one trick to minimize fluid loss and potential air in the ECBM is to block the brake pedal to the floor and plug the hard line (oversized tooth pick or similar wood skewer) until you are ready to connect the new line.
I have always bled the furthest away first so RR outer, RR inner etc with no problems.
#16
Drifting
Thread Starter
Several forum members have had problems installing SS lines. GM over tightens the flair nut hard lines and that distorts the threads. which then result in the lines weeping. I had two of the lines not completely seal using the normal amount of force to tighten. When I used much more force to tighten than I ever have on brake lines they stayed tight and weep free. When I replaced my front calipers with Wilwood calipers I had to change out the SS lines and had no issues that 2nd time.
If you really don't need the SS lines you may save yourself some foul language for when you really need it. If you do change them out, one trick to minimize fluid loss and potential air in the ECBM is to block the brake pedal to the floor and plug the hard line (oversized tooth pick or similar wood skewer) until you are ready to connect the new line.
I have always bled the furthest away first so RR outer, RR inner etc with no problems.
If you really don't need the SS lines you may save yourself some foul language for when you really need it. If you do change them out, one trick to minimize fluid loss and potential air in the ECBM is to block the brake pedal to the floor and plug the hard line (oversized tooth pick or similar wood skewer) until you are ready to connect the new line.
I have always bled the furthest away first so RR outer, RR inner etc with no problems.
Thanks Dave... I actually don’t really need new lines just something to waste money on. Maybe I’ll just leave them alone then.
#17
Moderator