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Abs/ traction light on after installing new calipers

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Old 12-10-2017, 09:09 PM
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Jayfabs
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Default Abs/ traction light on after installing new calipers

so I put my new calipers on today after having them off the car for a month. I just had rubber gloves over the lines. The master cylinder was empty. I bleed the brake RR-LF-LR-RF. I then took the car for drive to go break in the new brake pads. My warning lights were on the whole time. So I come back home and bleed again this time with ignition on car off. I got a couple bubbles out of front brakes. I then bleed them again with the car running. I got a little more from front brakes. My warning lights are still on. I put 50oz through the system. I did this the old fashion way with a helper. I’m really getting irritated with this car. I also noticed my thermostat housing is leaking. I installed a new thermostat not to long ago.
Old 12-11-2017, 12:51 PM
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Ttt
Old 12-11-2017, 12:54 PM
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Unreal
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Check the sensors, make sure they are all plugged in and not damaged.
Old 12-11-2017, 01:06 PM
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Most likely a sensor.. I accidentally pulled a wire out of one of the front ABS sensors. Make sure everything is plugged in right.
Old 12-11-2017, 03:54 PM
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I’ll check them again. There was one I removed .I reinstalled though. So maybe something I missed
Old 12-11-2017, 04:56 PM
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I suggest getting some spray contact cleaner and spraying the connection before reconnecting.
Old 12-11-2017, 05:30 PM
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should use a Tech 2 or at least a pressure bleeder ?????
Old 12-11-2017, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Pounder
should use a Tech 2 or at least a pressure bleeder ?????
I thought there was a certain procedure needed to properly bleed the brakes. Not sure that would cause the ABS light to illuminate, tho.
Old 12-11-2017, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jayyyw
I thought there was a certain procedure needed to properly bleed the brakes. Not sure that would cause the ABS light to illuminate, tho.
it's hard to get the air out of the EBCM !!!!!
Old 12-11-2017, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Pounder
it's hard to get the air out of the EBCM !!!!!
If I ever have to replace ABS unit, I'd much rather delete the whole thing.
Old 12-11-2017, 07:33 PM
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Jayfabs
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Ok the connector that I thought I had properly put back was not in all the way. Problem fixed.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jayfabs:
jayyyw (12-11-2017), Pounder (12-11-2017)
Old 12-11-2017, 09:02 PM
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I love it when the fix is easy!
Old 12-13-2017, 06:04 PM
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Don't these cars have inner and outer pistons? If so the sequence is RR outer, RR inner, LR outer, LR inner, RF outer RF inner, LF outer, LF inner. You probably have air in the system.

Last edited by MasterDave; 12-13-2017 at 06:04 PM.
Old 12-13-2017, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MasterDave
Don't these cars have inner and outer pistons? If so the sequence is RR outer, RR inner, LR outer, LR inner, RF outer RF inner, LF outer, LF inner. You probably have air in the system.
bleed the inner first then outer then inner then outer every time I did each brake. As of right now everything seems good. I do plan on doing stainless lines. Not sure why I didn’t this time smh
Old 12-13-2017, 08:05 PM
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AzDave47
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Originally Posted by Jayfabs
bleed the inner first then outer then inner then outer every time I did each brake. As of right now everything seems good. I do plan on doing stainless lines. Not sure why I didn’t this time smh
Several forum members have had problems installing SS lines. GM over tightens the flair nut hard lines and that distorts the threads. which then result in the lines weeping. I had two of the lines not completely seal using the normal amount of force to tighten. When I used much more force to tighten than I ever have on brake lines they stayed tight and weep free. When I replaced my front calipers with Wilwood calipers I had to change out the SS lines and had no issues that 2nd time.

If you really don't need the SS lines you may save yourself some foul language for when you really need it. If you do change them out, one trick to minimize fluid loss and potential air in the ECBM is to block the brake pedal to the floor and plug the hard line (oversized tooth pick or similar wood skewer) until you are ready to connect the new line.

I have always bled the furthest away first so RR outer, RR inner etc with no problems.
Old 12-13-2017, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by AzDave47
Several forum members have had problems installing SS lines. GM over tightens the flair nut hard lines and that distorts the threads. which then result in the lines weeping. I had two of the lines not completely seal using the normal amount of force to tighten. When I used much more force to tighten than I ever have on brake lines they stayed tight and weep free. When I replaced my front calipers with Wilwood calipers I had to change out the SS lines and had no issues that 2nd time.

If you really don't need the SS lines you may save yourself some foul language for when you really need it. If you do change them out, one trick to minimize fluid loss and potential air in the ECBM is to block the brake pedal to the floor and plug the hard line (oversized tooth pick or similar wood skewer) until you are ready to connect the new line.

I have always bled the furthest away first so RR outer, RR inner etc with no problems.
Thanks Dave... I actually don’t really need new lines just something to waste money on. Maybe I’ll just leave them alone then.
Old 12-13-2017, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jayfabs
Thanks Dave... I actually don’t really need new lines just something to waste money on. Maybe I’ll just leave them alone then.
If it ain't broke.....work on it till it is.
Old 12-13-2017, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MasterDave
If it ain't broke.....work on it till it is.
omg that’s awesome I hate it when I have that problem.

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