Id like to install a 100hp shot of nitrous in my C6 but I've never used it before and find conflicting opinions.

What is safer on the stock block, wet or dry?
I like the install looks of the wet better, looks more professional using the injection 90mm throttle body plates. But dont know if I should be sticking to a dry or not.

Again whats the best way to inject nitrous.. with a progressive controller or 2 stages?!?

and lastly, is there any bottle that will fit in the C6 rear cubby holes? Be it standing up, sideways or at an angle? That seems to be the only spot I can find to install it. I have a subwoofer box that takes up the part directly behind the seat and need the rest of the room for the top and to keep it daily driver friendly. Is it possible to daisy chain multiple smaller tanks ect???

Any help would be appriciated.

 

This is the biggest argued area in the nitrous world. Both wet or dry serve there purpos and both have there pros and cons.

I personally have used both and feel that either one can be just as safe as the next one when done correctly.

With a dry system you will need computer tunning to adjust airfuel and will need to upgrade injectors in the future as moding the car.

With Wet you will adjust airfuel with changeing the fuel jet. No computer tunning needed unless removing timming. Also the injectors will not need to be upgraded unless you add a cam and heads that over work the injectors NA.

With Wet the bottle pressure is more critical than with a dry system.
YOu can put together a dry system for less money than a wet system as long as you do not have to pay for injectors or computer tunning.

This is just my opion based off my experiences. Im sure there will be other opnions. I personaly prefer a wet system do to the easability. I have never had any problem on the many many many systems I have ran and installed. WEt or dry.
Dave

 

These should fit: Smallest NOS

But to actually answer one of your questions. I have seen 2 small 2lb bottles daisy chained together into a single solanoid into a fogger on a motorcycle. The idea was he would pull both bottles, fill them at the same time and claimed his pressure was more constant as the bottles ran low. I have no experience to back up HIS claim.

Size on the NOS brand 2lb bottle is:
Capacity: 2 lb.
Length: 10-1/4''
Diameter: 4-3/8''

10-1/4'' sounds close for the rear compartments.

 

2 lb bottles are only worth about 1 pass at the track though.

For a 100 shot, you won't need a progressive or dual-stage. Those are for 'big-boy' sized shots (over 200 hp). I'd run a wet system. I've had several of both types, and found the wet systems easier to tune and remain consistent.

If you want a stealth looking sleeper setup though, a dry kit is much easier to hide, haha.

Tony

 

Not worried about stealth the planned cam and current exhaust setup took that option away from me a long time ago So no need for a progressive or a dual stage hunh? Ok, can anyone then reccomend a good wet kit for the C6?

Also any more ideas on the N02 tanks?

 

for 100 shot or less...dry is much safer. The computer will adjust the AF coming in thru MAF. You dont risk a chance of one of the solenoid stucking. In a dry setup, if the solenoid fail..nothing happen.

 

In the "for what it's worth department"...

I installed the NOS Sniper System on my "vehicle" in February this year. The kit comes with three sets of jets (100HP, 125HP and 150HP). I started with the 100HP jets to ease into it.

I was VERY disappointed with the "hit" I felt with the 100HP jets. I made sure everything was operating ok and went through several bottles, then switched to 175HP jets. I ordered these jets becasuse I felt that an additional 50HP shot wouldn't give me much more.

The first time I hit it with the 175 jets I was hooked! My vehicle is not a Corvette, so don't take this as an endorsement to put 175HP on your vette. I'm just reporting that on my vehicle, my perception is that 100HP is a disappointment.

By the way... my "vehicle" is a motorcycle with a 502CI/502HP Big Block Chevy engine. 677HP on two wheels with 1300 lbs. I hope the acceleration on my 2007 Velocity Yellow Z06, which has a TPW of July 10th, doesn't pale in comparison too much!!!

WB

 

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=525267

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=530006

 

ok wildbill... you win craziest bastard on the corvette forum award.

and soldsyclone are those good on ls2's?

 

Dave,

APS....where you never have to refill a bottle again

 

I have the NX 1pc maf kit and use it for a 150wet shot. I was thinking I would only go with a 100shot but sure glad i got the wet kit as you can ajust up to 200 with not much problems.

I would go with 100 wet just so you can have the capacity to jump up to a 150 or 175 later. I also recomend a progressive controller so when you do a 150shot you can spay in 1st gear and jump to a larger shot with lots of options

Progressive on a 100 shot is not really needed but the 150shot helped me out and was well worth the money. If you got the cash go with the NX maxamier II for your nitrous controller, I really love mine and the support has been great from both NX and FJO.

One downside to the wet kit is that the fuel silonoids have had some issues with the new gas and ethonal, just something you have to watch out for. Even thou I have had a piston swell up on me recently I would still rather a wet kit

 

Hey sditch,

I saw the NX MAF kit on thier website. Did you install it yourself or have someone else do it for you. I was a tad leery of taking a hacksaw to my MAF.

What do you mean you had a piston swell up on you, this isnt something I'm familiar with. Wouldn't a dry kit be safer?

Thanks for everyones help

 

Tony's Corvette Shop in Maryland did the install and did a great job. Cutting the MAF sensor was very easy with a hack saw with a good blade. When I say the Piston swelled up I'm talking about the piston in the fuel silonoid. My spray was getting alittle lean and it turned out that the fuel silonoid piston was swelled up causing reduced flow of fuel though the nitrous silonoid. It be have been caused by a batch of bad gas or the ethonal.

 

This looks like a good deal and you can not go wrong with NX!

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/LS1NXL.htm

Cajun

 

Here's our plate kit,

and a link,
Nitrous Direct PRO Plate kit
and the PRO Dry kit:
Nitrous Direct PRO Dry Kit[/
And from our new site the MAF kit,
Nitrous Direct new web site
Let me know if ya need any help choosing wet or dry. I like dry and it's much less prone to problems by far.
Robert

Edit: in my web site in the links section is a write up on wet vs dry, it's called "The Colonel's Tech Files". Great for insight. Yes, we are seeing problems from swollen plungers on wet kits from the ethonal.

 

If using no more then a 100 shot then a dry system is the most safe as to something in the kit failing where if using a wet system can cause too much fuel into intake and then causing intake or engine parts to fail

You are lucky to get maybe 6 good runs with 10 lbs of N2O so if you use smaller tanks to fit in cubby holes then expect induced hassle of having to yank tank(s) and going to get them refilled which is not cheap ($4-5) lb and in most cases you have to leave your tank and wait 1 to 2 days and then have to go back to shop to pick refilled tank up

Being N2O in the tank is in a liquid state the tank must be placed in a certain position or you'll have problems as the N2O volume is reduced in tank.
Where people may think N2O is cheap overall it is not. You also need a tank heater which means the tank and area it rests on could be around 150 degrees and in many states it is illegal to have N2O hooked up while on public roads and if you drag race it requires you install a pressure relief system so if tank was to blow it must vent directly through a vent system and not into the car itself

You could buy a cheaper kit and if you like using N20 then buy/add other options. Cheaper kits comes with a micro switch that mounts by gas pedal allowing N2O only to come on a WOT.

Best safe case is not to rely on a wet design but have the ECM tuned for N20 and if it looks like engine runs too lean is to swap to bit larger injectors that are adjusted correctly by the ECM tune rather then spraying raw fuel into intake manifold as wet kits do.

As to solenoid problems such as seals or plunger swelling is from cheap designs yet charging big dollars for these kits and that the solenoid can draw about 15 amps when on and if there is no N20 in system to cool internals of solenoid then it overheats and damages those cheap rubber parts.

 

Robert