I have about 1 and a half days invested in the installation so far. Got the MSD box in, oil pan return drilled, injectors installed, and ready to bolt the manifold/turbo assembly up to the heads (didn't have a second person to help today so had to call it a day, and haven't lengthened the clutch line). Everything has fit perfectly and haven't had to modify anything that wasn't mentioned in the instructions. Definately satisfied with the system and can't wait to finish it. The installation has been pretty easy thus far and I would recommend it to anybody who has access to a lift and some mechanical experience.

*Question to people who have installed the system - any tips or advice in lengthening the clutch line?

I'll post pics soon, going out of town for a week or so on business so I'll have to be patient

 

I cut it with a dremel tool and just tightened the fittings with couple of box end wrenches. The clutch bleeder is hard to find, it is on top of the bell housing, you can't see it, you have to feel for it, and put your wrench on it. The good news is that once your wrench is on it, you can open it, go inside the car, push the clutch to the floor and it will stay there, so it is a one man bleed job.

I've been working on mine for about a week and a half now, just nights and weekends. I have the turbos installed, and the oil and water lines hooked up, new injectors on, and I used a Kennebell booster pump, so its installed. I am working on the air ducting now.

Here are a couple of other observations about the instructions. First, and very important. be sure to do step 50 before 44, because if you wait to hook up that water inlet hose after you put the turbos in the car you'll be just as unhappy as me about having to hook that thing up, it took a lot of time and effort.

Also, when hoisting the turbos into the left side of the car, only put in the last stud in the back of the head beforehand, along with the gasket, once you have the manifold in place on that stud, you can install the other studs.

This one should be pretty obvious but step 53 is a duplicate of part of step 36, be sure to perform it before step 44 just like the water inlet hose. The oil drain hose would be a bear if you wait until the left side turbo is in the car. Fortunately I followed instructions and connected it as part of step 36

I'll post more as I think of them.

 

Thanks for the tips....hopefully I'll have some pics soon

 

just finished installing the C5 kit, same trick with the studs, the C6 has MUCH more room where the turbos reside

FASTBIRD93's Nassua Blue coupe

APS C5 twin turbo kit
Lingenfelter Walbro fuel pump
Mototron 60# fuel injectors
ECS/Julio Alkycontrol methanol injection
Comp 918 valvesprings(prevent v/t float)
Textralia clutch, updated '04 LS6 slave/master
Bilstein shocks
HUD upgrade
Autometer Nexus gages, FP, Boost, Wideband
tuning by Slowhawk(EFI Live)

FMIC's at the front corners


compressor discharge pipes along the frame rail




RHS turbo


oil pressure sensor relocated to distrubution block on RHS head, this is the supply line for both turbos


coolant hose to LHS turbo(stand clear when removing the block plug)


Comp 918 springs installed

 

Here is an update to my installation from my post above. I am currently stuck on step number 78. This is the routing of the turbo inlet hose up and over the cross member.

My car has Magna Ride (option F55) and the suspension travel sensor is right in the way of the inlet hose. I have been in contact with APS and I am still trying after a week to get the problem resolved. I've contacted a couple of their US dealers and one of them gave me a clue as to where he had to relocate the sensors on an F55 car they installed the kit on, so I'm using that clue to formulate a plan.

I hope to know better where I stand with it today. Bottom line is that the kit doesn't really work with an F55 car. You're on your own as far as trying to relocate your suspension travel sensors in the front. Hopefully APS will fine tune the kit to include a fix for it, but today you get to be your own engineer if you have an F55 car.

 

Have you thought about calling LAPD, they have installed a lot of APS on C6 and might give you some answers.

 

BJK

 

correct, F45/55 does not work with the APS kit, I recently found this out, not sure if you could relocate the box

 

Well I finally got my F55 suspension sensors relocated. I used the longer actuator rods from the rear sensors, and placed new ones on order. I had to fashion a bracket from aluminum and relocated them to the front inner lower a-arm just as Geoff from Next Level Performance had said. Here is a web page with pictures of my install including the sensor relocations.

http://www.webxselerator.com/corvett...tall/index.htm

I was also able to get my car started this evening even though it is running too rich to drive. Time to tow it to the tuner. Here is a picture of just the sensor relocation.

 

Nice job!

 

Brabus,

Where in the "hell" are your numbers now????

Heh heh!!! How's it coming???

 

Patience my friend. Car's at the exhaust shop right now; fabbing some 3" sect. pieces for the APS downpipes....and then the car goes back to LAPD for the alky install. The car does build TQ out of the gate; 600rwtq @ 3K rpm, 700rwtq @ 3.6K rpm.

How's it going with your "work in progress"??

 

Looks like a "clean" install!!

 

Shawn

 

Have a question for you. Does that sensor read rate or degree of deflection? I'm curious if moving it will disrupt how it reads the lower A-arm by changing how much it moves relative to how the short rod moved stock. I want the F55 option car & this right here gives me the

Matt

 

Last Fall, I installed a ProCharger on my C6, and ran into some issues that were not covered in the "instructions", and it made for a frustrating and drawn out experience. Some items that were not addressed were so simple, yet so time consuming, when they were not discussed beforehand. You'd think that your supplier could have asked which suspension was on the car. Six simple words! What would you have done if the bracket had not worked? I think some venders out there are so anxious to sell something, especially as expensive and complicated as a TT system, they could car less if it is designed to fit your particular car. Not the first time I've run into "issues". And, probably, not the last. Good luck. Looks like a professional install you've got going there.

 

Well Matt you're right that my modification may change the operation of the suspension, but not if I did my modification right. I measured the same distance from the joint on the front part of the A-Arm as the sensor actuator was mounted on the rear part of the A-Arm, so in theory the computer should be happy. I even measured where the sensor's travel was in relation to the mount and marked it with that yellow paint you see in the picture. I won't really know how well I did until I am able to drive it I guess. Wish me luck. Theory isn't always the same as practice.

 

Okay - I see what you did and agree that in theory that should cover it. you only lengthened it by the amount needed to reach a point equal-distance out from the bushings as the original location so it should return the same info to the ride computer... regardless of what it's reading the sensor is still moving as much as it was originally. I think that's a good plan of attack - looking forward to hearing if the computer agrees with you. I will keep the yellow dot trick in mind.