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I am considering adding a power adder to my C6 A6. I am interested in the experiences all of you with TT or SC -roots & centri- are having with traction. Are there particular speeds, RPM ranges, Torque and HP levels or combinations of the above that are associated with the loss of traction? How long does the traction issue last? Have any of you had success using boost controllers to manage the issue? It seems wider tires have limited benefit on the street.
With a Maggie (roots) SC on an otherwise stock C6 and manual tranny... 1st gear gets obliterated at any speed, any rpm. Second gear at any speed, at any rpm can be made to spin at will. Third gear will provide a little wiggling, but otherwise you can generally obtain traction somewhere in 3rd. IF the weather is cold or if you are on stock tires however... 3rd can be made to spin up to the top of the gear. All bets are you generally plant by 4th gear.
Others will weigh in I'm sure - but I'd expect all the other F/I applications to be about the same. Depending upon the application and output, some could be worse in terms of gaining traction. A few I believe are getting into the boost controllers... but otherwise "traction" and "supercharged/turbocharged" generally go together like water and oil.
Last edited by SSJCreeper; Jun 6, 2007 at 06:52 PM.
"traction" and "supercharged/turbocharged" generally go together like water and oil.
it's an oxymoron. The thing is not wider rubber but better rubber. There are some intersting options down the line, Yokohama is making a tire for the Callaway C16, the Nitto Invo and Michelin is coming out with rubber for the new Viper.
I do not think the horse is dead. I thought the focus of my questions was on how boost controllers & tired could help manage traction issues. A boost controller that controls boost by gear by RPM can, I believe, be quite effective in maximizing performance by keeping the tires hooked. I was interested in factual information such as I loose traction at this speed and rpm and I am making X TQ and Y HP at that point using Z method of power enhancemnt.
Traction? We don't need no stinkin' traction . Really, my car hooks much better since installing Michlin PS2's. The GY EMT's were junk under 70 mph or so. Made for a lot of fun, and some exciting rides.
So at what point does the traction starts to become an issue, i mean rwhp wise for say better rubber? hoosiers/PS2s?
500?
600?
700?
and what else could be done besides rubber and loosening of that right foot?
It's definitely an issue at 500rwhp. I would say by the time you're in the 700 range, you might as well be on an ice-rink. Your two suggestions are about the best bet. Bigger, better rubber and loosening the right foot.
It's definitely an issue at 500rwhp. I would say by the time you're in the 700 range, you might as well be on an ice-rink. Your two suggestions are about the best bet. Bigger, better rubber and loosening the right foot.
So basically once I am beyond that point of power the only thing it helps in is bragging rights and rolling start probably above usual highway speed limit
So Z06 is almost there as with tune and very minor mods it touches 500 rwhp
So basically once I am beyond that point of power the only thing it helps in is bragging rights and rolling start probably above usual highway speed limit
So Z06 is almost there as with tune and very minor mods it touches 500 rwhp
You got it brother. From a dig, those 700 ponies are damn near useless. Rolling 70mph bursts are where the high horse cars show their true potential, otherwise... anything below that is nothing more than a blantant display of tire melting power. Even with "only" 500rwhp, you can consider 1st and 2nd gear totally useless in terms of traction. Third is a mixed bag. Fourth gear is where you finally plant.
You got it brother. From a dig, those 700 ponies are damn near useless. Rolling 70mph bursts are where the high horse cars show their true potential, otherwise... anything below that is nothing more than a blantant display of tire melting power. Even with "only" 500rwhp, you can consider 1st and 2nd gear totally useless in terms of traction. Third is a mixed bag. Fourth gear is where you finally plant.
If so then how does higher HP cars, espeically same cars with higher HP end up giving better drag times, is it just because of the rubber? I know sometimes they dont, but you see vettes in 10s, 9s etc..
Even with the addition of 335/30/20 PS2s on the rear, 1st gear is still pretty much useless for me. I do have significantly better traction from 2nd gear and up with the addition of wider and better better quality rubber.
So basically once I am beyond that point of power the only thing it helps in is bragging rights and rolling start probably above usual highway speed limit
So Z06 is almost there as with tune and very minor mods it touches 500 rwhp
Bragging rights? No, not really, think about the C6R's and how much power they have. Think power to weight, those cars weigh about 2,400 lbs and are restricted to just 590 hp (but a huge 640 lb ft of torque) and they keep the power on the ground. It's all about being smooth.
You need the right rubber and propper right foot control. It is more difficult but loads more fun. The days of smashing the throttle in the lower gears are pretty much over when you have that much power. You have to roll on the throttle and be smooth. It just forces you to be better at it. My 03 make 730+, it just takes a lot of focus and control.
I am considering adding a power adder to my C6 A6. I am interested in the experiences all of you with TT or SC -roots & centri- are having with traction. Are there particular speeds, RPM ranges, Torque and HP levels or combinations of the above that are associated with the loss of traction? How long does the traction issue last? Have any of you had success using boost controllers to manage the issue? It seems wider tires have limited benefit on the street.