Controller? what is that? I know it controls something but what is it? is it a must? BTW.. I'm buying a used Nitrous kit (TNT maybe) so I think all the stuff comes with it and I don't have a Z like you guys it's a C6 :|
a friend of mine told me this "If you're doing a Nitrous with the stock pistons (100 Shot), then say b'bye to your beloved motor"
to be honest.. I didn't install the mods I mentioned yet! I have them sitting on the shelf right now so a tune is required anyway.

my big concern is the motor, don't get me wrong two years owning the Vette with only 31,000 KM is a great milage at least that what I think also your tuners are WAY better than ours! I'm not saying they suck! but they're OK and they've tuned many many cars with Nitorus.

Greetings

 

Here's another one! (So sorry guys for being such a stupid Corvette owner.. AGAIN )
100 Shot = 100 RWHP right? please say yes!

 

k so before i saw people bashing me because i was saying that a wet kit is a way to go and that its safe not even to do a tune. 2 things.......1. im not gonna debate which one is better because of course this will start a 15 page long thread on several opinions and 2. I had a 20 year mechanic from GM that only works on corvettes tell me this a long with one of the best tuners in the south. Maybe they are insane, but as of now ill take both of their words of yours . if u have a dry kit with a high shot then it obviously needs to get tuned to make sure the fuel will be consistent when ur spraying. if you have a wet kit then ur already feeding fuel with nitrous at the same time so granted you dont abuse of the nitrous shot a tune is not necessary as much as it would be with a dry kit. i have used both dry and wet and yes although dry is a bit safer(in some aspects), wet deff. feels a lot stronger. Tuning anything is always a better idea, but it all depends on your circumstances. If you dont have a good shop, if ur broke, if your only doing a small shot etc. would be reasons not to tune. Here in Miami(where the person who started this thread lives) I would not trust any of these ghetto little sneaky shops to do a tune with my nitrous kit. They dont know **** from shinola! Basically ill let you know what i have, to not cause a debate and just put in whats working for me soo far. I have a TNT kit(LOVE IT) with a 150 wet shot(AMAZING Power!) I use a micro switch(good ol fashion and gets the job done) and for safety purposes i use a MSD controller(activates my nitrous at 3000rpm and shuts off at 6400rpm.) I also have tr6 spark plugs(.30-.35 gap). My car is a daily driver and i spray maybe once a week. never had a problem and hasnt been tuned although once i get my cams installed next week the car will get some tuning done.(HorsePowerSales.)

 

TNT kit comes complete with everything you need. There is one for sale on the forums that even comes with the msd controller(highly recomend). Its a great deal so you should jump on it before someone else gets lucky. 100 shot is safe all day long. you can have the car stock and spray 100 shot with out a problem. Yes to some extent 100shot is 100hp. dont feel bad about asking questions, even the "smartest" guy on these forums had to ask them at some point!

 

Love your explanation a lot bro! specially on the dry-wet shots. all thing you said wrote down even the MSD controller!
I can't thank you enough GenuineSurprize :o thanks a lot my good friend.

 

I use the digital controller that Nitro Dave sells. For the price it has tons of features. It's pretty trick for being so cheap. You can set the on/off RPM's, multi-gear lockout, auto TPS sensing and it will control two kits independantly. Did I mention it was cheap too?

I've seen people burn holes in pistons in N/A cars. Anything is possible if you're dumb enough.

Some companies rate them at the flywheel, some rate them at the crank. Here's a good calculator that will get you in the ballpark.

The fuel side is only part of the equation. Regardless of wet or dry, the fuel/air and timing have to be addressed.

I'm not sure why you're thinking this, or where you came up with this. Fuel/air ratio is just as important, regardless of wet or dry kit and BOTH can have issues. A lean condition can result from a 'noid failure, wiring failure, clogged jet, etc.. Watch the timing AND the fuel/air ratio, either one will kill the engine.

The hp is determined by the nitrous jet, not the fuel side. A 100hp shot makes ~the same horsepower, regardless if you are using the injectors or a jet for the additional fuel and maintain the same fuel/air ratio.

It can be done, just don't cry when you spray it and it blows up.

A C6 with a micro switch on the pedal? Just don't leave the traction control on because your pedal will be to the floor and the ECM will close the throttle blade. The MSD window switch doesn't know the throttle blade is closed, so the kit will stay activated. Just a warning.

How many cams are you installing?

 

Thats exactly why I took my microswitch out and used the window switch with TPS. It's easy enough to just turn the traction control off when you are going to spray, but I didnt want to risk forgetting to do it.

 

Thanks!

 

its so pleasing to know that u have all the time in the world to disect my thoughts sentence by sentence and just say the opposite. i appreciate the attention.i wish i can do the same but im busy making money.....
anyways i wasnt aware of the microswitch situation. ill prob have that replaced when i go get my "cam"done.

 

 

if you are really going to hook up the spray i strongly recommend you pull timing from your tune just to be safe. when i used to spray a 100 i pulled 4-5 degrees

 

my noob question is with a fjo mini controler (progressive kit)rpm shutoff (3200-6400)and gear lock out can one run a 200shot on a cam only LS2 motor on race gas? with a tune ofcourse. and would a boost a pump be needed to accomodate the high shot, thanks for your input

 

super4x4duty: What are your thoughts on the HSW interface? You mentioned you can tune a dry shot AND still not negatively affect your N/A tune to much.. could elaborate on that a bit further?

Also, I was looking at the nitrous outlet window switch and that thing is pretty slick. nice features and at a good price.

So, besides the bottle warmer, window switch, interface (if needed)... I should as well include a nitrous filter. What about a fuel safety switch? It sounds safety orientated... but is it really necessary with the above parts already installed?


Genuinesurprise: Cool hanging with ya and your lil'bro last night, the fudd's was pretty crazy huh?! Usually, SSP hangs out every other thursday, so you are more than welcome to show up at anytime... but as a reminder, the head guys don't like racing or goofing off.

Anyways, monday night there is a meet... let me know if your gonna head out.

A.

 

I haven't tried it, but it looks neat. I'm just leery of giving a device control over my MAF signal with information from a wideband to determine my fuel/air ratio.

Two reasons.

The MAF versus timing tables are not static. What I mean by that is when the HSW interface raises/drops MAF signal, the timing table is directly affected. If the car goes pig rich and the HSW drops the signal too low, it will get into my more aggressive timing map. It might be a non-issue with some tunes, it might be an issue with another.

Secondly, I see wideband O2 sensors and controllers stop working from time to time. I'm not sure how the HSW would react to it and honestly, I don't want to find out.

Those are just two quick reasons why I personally wouldn't use the HSW on my car...other than the fact that my fuel/air ratio is very steady as it is. Don't let that discourage you though. I just don't like to rely on too many electronic pieces. But by all means, if it works, it works!

Sure.

The MAF vs. Timing table can be set to use less timing once you get past X amount of flow. What that means is when you make a motor pull you only move X amount of air. When you hit the bottle and more air (nitrous) is moving past the sensor you use X+Y amount of air and that moves you further up in the table, which you can adjust for less timing. It's nice because you won't need to have an external device pulling timing.

The fuel/air ratio can also be adjusted by the MAF table so that it gets richer, or leaner once you get past X amount of flow.

Basically you tune the car for max N/A power, then tune the higher end of the table for the dry nitrous hit. You get the best of both worlds and it doesn't take any external electronics. Genius!

I realize I didn't do a great job of explaining it. Look up RobertT56. He's written all kinds of articles that explain it way better than I ever could.

In my past experiences, I've seen a high failure rate with the fuel pressure safety switches. Personally, I don't use them, but a properly working fuel pressure safety switch can save an engine.

Don't forget a cooler set of spark plugs. I ran TR6's with zero issues. With the fogger setup I'll be trying a set of 8's and race fuel, then going from there.

Regardless which way you go, good luck.

 

thank you very much!!

I feel, that my only true issue, is that I have never run nitrous (in my personal car) and I'm possibly more nervous of hurting the motor by messing up than actually finding a kit and making it work.

I know that I want 150-shot. And with the tuning strategy you disclosed, I feel that dry is going to be the way to go. My only concern at this point is finding an adequate tuner, in my area, that has had experience with such an approach, since I don't want a fat/lazy N/A tune, and execute it well enough to make it nitrous-virgin proof!

Again, thanks mang!

Another ??, well, not really.... So It would be plainly obvious to have the nitrous hit before the maf, therefore the plate kit would be necessary on a dry setup. How far infront of the MAF should i plumb the nozzles to ensure a adequate mixture? Also, I have seen some run twin nozzles and some run single nozzles, any advantages running either one?

A.


Oh, you taking, anytime soon, some vacation time in miami florida? Interested in making some extra vaca. money for the wife's shopping by tuning my car?

 

my noob question is with a fjo mini controler (progressive kit)rpm shutoff (3200-6400)and gear lock out can one run a 200shot on a cam only LS2 motor on race gas? with a tune ofcourse. and would a boost a pump be needed to accomodate the high shot, thanks for your input

 

Two ??'s

1. Since i'm still on a 100% stock c6 z06 fuel system, will I need injectors when using dry and a jetted at 150hp? I cannot honestly remember what the stock injectors are rated at, but some folks are going about 600rwhp and I haven't heard mentioned of an injector swap until they start going into the 600rwhp+

2. Again, @ a 150hp shot, how much timing should I pull to keep it reliable and avoid knock? I saw a rule of thumb figure (2/50hp) but I wanted to make sure. Also, my car is tuned already, thus, do I need to view my current timing to know how much to pull? I figured i'm going to anyways as I will be looking for knock when tuning.

 

No problem. Let's keep a tech theme going and everyone should be alright.

This is what I based my initial judgment on, taken directly from the HSW website:

The Interface makes Air to Fuel adjustments using your Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor.

If it alters the signal, it can directly affect the timing, without using the IAT table to do it.

Example....



Altering the MAF signal will also change the fuel/air in more than one way by skewing your fueling map.



I read it on LS1Tech a while back. It's not in the description on your website, so I don't know what happened there. Maybe it ended up not being an option.

As you can see above, that statement isn't entirely true when talking about a C6. Also, some guys nearly zero the IAT table, which would make the timing function almost useless.



Parameters?

It's awesome that people are still coming up with new electronics and are thinking outside the box.

 

That's a good thing. If you're cautious you will be less likely to do something to damage the engine.

With a 100 shot on a C6Z06 you will be having traction issues. Try it and see how the car responds. It might actually be slower with a 150hp shot if it doesn't hook as well.

I was spraying a cheap-O brass NOS 45* nozzle just above the air filter in my Vararam. Even using a long line from the 'noid to the nozzle, the hit was still very hard. Passengers didn't believe it was a dry kit because everyone talks about how soft they hit. I actually wanted it a little softer to keep from overpowering the tires.

Vacation? What's that?

Can it be done without sending the rotating assembly into orbit? Probably. The tune-up on the kit has to be right. If you don't know how to tune for a bigger kit, get help. Think cold plugs, low timing and a good fuel/air ratio.

I never ran over a 125hp dry shot. On the dyno it made ~620RWHP. No issues with my car.

That's all part of tuning a nitrous car. You have to take it all into account before you start spraying. Timing. Fuel quality. Nitrous HP setting. Fuel/air ratio. Etc. Etc. There aren't any magic numbers, only guidelines to follow. Tuning is everything.

 

figured as much...thanks bud