Lets make this simple, YOU HAVE TO SEE IT TO BELEIVE IT.

Yes I drove my tuners Z06 which has it installed and to give you an idea of how it worked:

1st test, we turned everything off, got the car off the line at full throttle, the car SPUN the entire 1st, and halfway through 2nd, and left a CLOUD of smoke behind us. Its worthy to mention that his tires are TOAST, they are bald and since we just came out of the shop in an industrial area, the tires were full of sand, and so was the road.

2nd test, traction on 5% slip, the car goes STRAIGHT, it accelerates as though an extremely pro driver was piloting it, infact I can confidently say that even the most skilled drivers cannot do what this unit did.

We were going full throttle on the curves, and the car was planted on the ground, again with the crap tires!!!

Im getting mines installed in a few days time, we have to check first if the unit would work fine on a boosted application without causing any leaning/richening out issues.

I am still wondering how come no one got that installeD? Other than the fact that its a pain in the *** to get installed, whats the reason?

Ill try to get a video soon.

 

Most folks that are serious about traction control (read: the 1,000+ RWHP guys) "Get Dots".

However, some folks use the solution you mentioned but it's very pricey and most folks don't need it. I know of maybe one or two folks on this forum that use it. I know there is also a guy on the Viper forums (he used to frequent here also) that uses the racelogic solution.

 

Ed, as for me, im getting tires, an aggressive alignment, coilovers, boost-by-gear, and the traction control. The car should be planted!!

Its a street car too so, drag radials is not something I want to use.

 

I'm not sure why you don't want drag radials if this is a street car as you say it is?

I run M&H Racemasters (a Big Drag Radial) when I'm looking to lay the smack down and they work 98% as good as a true slick.

Traction control is really unnecessary when you can control boost by gear - but hey, it's your money to throw away.

 

I've heard great things about the racelogic traction control, but of the two C6s I saw getting them installed on this forum, neither one finished the install for some reason.
What I would like to know is why can I reprogram the advanced computer controlled TC system that already exists in my car to do the same thing?

 

Different sensors, different algorithms and different processor to handle all that data.

As advanced as OEM TC is on our cars, the Racelogic stuff is light years ahead. However, I stand by my original assertion - with gear-based boost control it is totally unnecessary.

 

Im working on a plug and play harness for The C6s. Its taking a bit more time than I anticipated, but it will be a NICE system for ALL cars.

As for Boost by gear being better? Not at all. You cannot account for different CoF of different surfaces, RAIN, tire temp, etc.

Racelogic is definately the way to go

 

Louis,

I just can't agree that the thousands on thousands you will spend for the Racelogic solution is a good value when you have gear-based boost control.

Have you tried gear based boost control on your TT C6Z? (The AMS-1000 is great for this as is the EBoost2).

Sure, if we're talking about racing in the snow, rain, gravel, etc... Sure... But let's be realistic here.

In a drag race situation (As this is by the OP's own admission), boost by gear is terribly effective.

However, I bet this would be something nice to have for something like the Texas Mile event!

 

Yes, we did use Boost by gear, and trying to put the car on the threshold of traction, consistently, never happened.

 

I respectfully disagree. Bear with me:
First of all gear based boost is not an option for a centrifugally supercharged car like most of the FI setups on this forum. I looked into venting the supercharger output in the lower gears; that is do-able, but it would be very difficult to tune for and a bit of a moot point since you spend power to spin the blower and then just vent that air away. With turbos gear based boost is certainly an option but you can only go as low as your wastegate, and even at the 5-6PSI a very light wastgate spring will net you, you'll still make too much power and roast the tires. But that's not what I wanted to discuss... I want to take exception to what you said about the Racelogic TC being light years ahead of the factory TC:

The racelogic system works by cutting fuelling to each cylinder. It has the ability to decrease you engine's output by: 1/8th, 1/4rth, 3/8ths, 1/2. That's it; you get 4 increments each one one cylinder apart. The reason it works well is simply because it gives you the ability to tune it so well to your particular car/engine/tire configuration, but it is very crude as far as the spacing because all it has the hability to do is cut off individual cylinders.
In contrast, the factory traction control has full command over Throttle And ignition timing. Once it detects wheespin by comparing the wheel speed of the rear tires as it relates to the front wheelspeed (it uses the ABS sensors for that) it will first begin to pull ignition timing, making your engine lose a little bit of power. If wheelspin continues past a certain maximum timing threshold it will then start to close the throttle plate. In theory this gives the TC system INFINITE control over how much power your engine makes, and makes it infinitely adaptable to road conditions, unlike the racelogic which is pre-set for a particular road and then proceeds to pull power in 4 or so discrete individual steps (I am not sure if it can deactivate more than 4 cylinders).

So, again, I ask: Why can't I retune my traction control to accomodate the added power? There must be tables controlling it; if I could just recalibrate the tables so that the control became more agressive with its throttle modulation, maybe even set different tables for different gears, I would be able to stomp it to the floor and hold it there; the TC would back off the throttle for me and just open it gradually as traction became available.
The only two reasons I can think of as to why this does not work are:

1- No one has figured out how to recalibrate the TC.
2- The computer controlling traction control has too slow of a clock speed to be able to keep up with what is happening in the car during traction loss.

But I can dream, can't I? I knew I should have finished my double major in ME and EE; maybe then I would be able to reprogram the damn thing mysef!

 

Ok guys, I dont know much about programming the stock TC system, however the racelogic system is one heck of a gadget, let me tell you why.

Boost by gear is only good for a straight line, and still when boost kicks in suddenly the tires can spin, you might have programmed the car to NOT spin on a warm day, where the tires were warm and clean, and the asphalt was good etc... However take into consideration what happens when you suddenly downshift to 2nd at 4000rpm and mash the throttle, youll spin whether you have boost-by-gear of not. Now of course I was the one NAGGINg from the beginning about the boost by gear stuff, but in conjunction with the racelogic unit and a few other goodies should make it one hell of a ride.

Second point is, this thing works like a dream on the corners, it does an even better job at the corners, I swear to god we did three turns on a roundabout and my tuner did not let his foot off the throttle, I freaked the crap out, but the car stayed planted, with the **** tires he had!!!

To someone that spent soo much money on his car like me, it makes so much sense to have this, infact trust me EVERY Z should have this, I know its expensive but I can justify the cost, after experiencing it first hand today.

Also, you get launch control with the unit, you set the desired RPM level, hit full throttle, let the clutch out and it does its job!!

Also, there is a NO-LIFT-SHIFT function and MUCH MORE.

As a response to the post above, the stock TC system is designed for SAFETy not for going faster, the racelogic unit does both a 1000% times better, ill get a video then you guys will know why I am praising it so much =)

Again, according to my plans, a good set of tires, aggressive alignment, trick coilover adjustment , boost-by-gear and the racelogic unit should make my 1100HP vette more drivable than a 550rwhp vette =)

 

exactly, im sure it helped but once the car spins it spins, once you loose traction it doesnt matter anymore whether your pushing 600rwhp of 1000rwhp because you lost traction and to gain it back again youll need to lift or spin your way through. I could see the RPM gauge flying to the redline on the standing mile vids.

My idea is to program the boost-by-gear switch to give just enough boost to kick the rear out, and then let the traction system handle the rest, so on a better paved road, on a warmer day when my tires and clean and warm, the car could accelerate without the help of the traction control, and on a rainy day I can still mash the throttle without freaking the crap out.

Again, it shines on the twisties

 

That's why I said I would like to reprogram it... For going faster

Nah, don't get me wrong, I think the RaceLogic unit is fantastic... The above was just me wondering as to why we need to spend so much money to get that in a car that already has provisions for advanced computer controlled electronic traction control...

Out of curiosity, how much does the unit cost?

 

Not true...
you'll see soon enough...

 

I know that's not entirely true

 

XxMFxX,
Nice to hear your feedback.
That was the feedback I recieved from the Viper guys.

Got to get back to my installation.
I made an injector jumper harness as well so cutting is needed to OEM harness.





Power labs . I'ts about $1799.00

 

Very nice!

 

Perry,

installation is a pain in the butt, along with tuning that thing, you're one of the few people that WILL get it done and perfect it

However, do you think there would be any issues cutting the fuel from the injectors on a boosted application and say at full boost? Say what happens to the fuel mixture?

My tuner is thinking of a possibility of connecting this to the spark plugs instead of the injectors on boosted applications so that when the traction kicks in, electricity is cut, not fuel, causing a SLIGHT richening of the fuel mixture which should not be a problem?

However, I then remember that those turbo cars use fuel-cut dont they? I dont know if im making sense, I just want to make sure nothing goes wrong

 

If you cut fuel nothing happens; it is the LEANING of fuel that can damage engines. our rev limiter is a fuel cut.
If you connect it to the spark plugs your will completely destroy your entire car by injecting 50,000 volts into the wiring. I assume your tuner meant connecting it to the ignition coils. I think this will cause the most horrendous electrical interference problems ever seen in a non German car, but that aside, cutting spark will cause copious amounts of raw fuel to go into your exhaust; if you have cats you can kiss them goodbye. If you don't, you will have rolling thundering fireballs from your exhaust every time the TC kicks in... The kind of backfire that will split a mufler open at the welds... Not a very elegant solution IMO...

 

Powerlabs,

I don't really think you and I disagree on any points (After reading your first response <above>) other than you think it's necessary in addition to gear-based boost control in a drag racing application.

I don't think it's necessary. I've successfully repeated (with multiple TT car C6Z's) that gear-based boost control WORKS for drag racing. However, I can't speak to other areas like Road Racing or Auto-Crossing as I haven't tried a racelogic unit in that environment.

MFX - you mentioned two options that the Racelogic gives you - I'd like to mention to you that the 2-step option and the "no lift shift" option are available without by the racelogic unit... I run a lingenfelter 2 step in my cars and I never lift for a shift! I don't like losing boost between shifts!