Is Boost-A-Pump needed???
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,509
Likes: 9
From: Norman OK
Is Boost-A-Pump needed???
OK guys, this is what happened. I was cleaning up some of the wiring under the hood. The positive wire was accidentaly left loose and was resting against the header on my way home. It melted to the header and shorted out. Car went crazy and everything quit.
I found the wire and fixed it. When I tried to start the car I had zero fuel pressure. I checked the BAP fuses and they were good. I replaced the relay in the racetronics harness, but still no power. I removed the racetronics harness and hooked up the fuel pump "as factory". Car started right up and gave me 59PSI.
I figure the BAP got fried internally. Is there any danger in running the A&A kit without the BAP??
Do I need to replace this right away, or can I take my time and drive the car some without it???
The car is making 630 RWHP. I am running 60lb injectors and 7PSI of boost.
The car also in thowing out a "Service Charging System" message on the DIC. I have not solved that issue yet either if any of you have an idea. I did pull the alternator and had the local auto shop bench test it. It passed their tests, but I am not 100% sure it is good. Any suggestions???
I found the wire and fixed it. When I tried to start the car I had zero fuel pressure. I checked the BAP fuses and they were good. I replaced the relay in the racetronics harness, but still no power. I removed the racetronics harness and hooked up the fuel pump "as factory". Car started right up and gave me 59PSI.
I figure the BAP got fried internally. Is there any danger in running the A&A kit without the BAP??
Do I need to replace this right away, or can I take my time and drive the car some without it???The car is making 630 RWHP. I am running 60lb injectors and 7PSI of boost.
The car also in thowing out a "Service Charging System" message on the DIC. I have not solved that issue yet either if any of you have an idea. I did pull the alternator and had the local auto shop bench test it. It passed their tests, but I am not 100% sure it is good. Any suggestions???
Last edited by sixsixvette; Mar 22, 2009 at 03:24 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 18,396
Likes: 169
I am running a ProCharger making 550rwhp, 60# injectors and I use the RaceTronics wiring harness that wires the alternator directly to the fuel pump(probably the same as your set up) but without the BAP. I have never had an issue with fuel pressure or lean conditions, so I think your okay to drive the car. I have the KB BAP, but did not install it on advice from by tuner. He has had too many fuel pumps burned out using it, so I passed on installing it. Good luck.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 22
From: Lehigh Valley Pennsylvania
Both Procharger and Vortech say you don't need it. But it comes with the A&A and ECS kits and they recommend it. I'm confused as well. Mine goes in next week, and will probably try the tune without it. Any signs of leaning out and I'll put it on.
Last edited by NormWild; Mar 22, 2009 at 06:29 PM.
Former Vendor
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Racer
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 256
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From: SoCal
I'd make sure it is in there. The last thing you need is the Alternator lowering the voltage while your at full boost and you get detonation that you don't even hear. I have the Vortech kit but have added a BAP for cheap insurance. I believe the C6Z06 Vortech kit is rated at 575whp so at that level I'm sure it is safe, however 630whp and 575whp are totally different and I would be caught dead running around on just the stock Fuel Pump at that HP level.
I'd get it fixed. A new BAP is much cheaper than new pistons
I'd get it fixed. A new BAP is much cheaper than new pistons
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 11
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
I'd make sure it is in there. The last thing you need is the Alternator lowering the voltage while your at full boost and you get detonation that you don't even hear. I have the Vortech kit but have added a BAP for cheap insurance. I believe the C6Z06 Vortech kit is rated at 575whp so at that level I'm sure it is safe, however 630whp and 575whp are totally different and I would be caught dead running around on just the stock Fuel Pump at that HP level.
I'd get it fixed. A new BAP is much cheaper than new pistons
I'd get it fixed. A new BAP is much cheaper than new pistons
At 600WHP my fuel pressure drops up top WITH the BAP. I too would never chance running without one; they are cheap anyways.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,622
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From: Dallas TX
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,509
Likes: 9
From: Norman OK
Well, everything has worked out. My electrical problem was a blown fusable link in the alternator power cable. Since the BAP was getting its power from the Alt pos terminal, the break in the fusable link caused the BAP to not work. I installed a new cable and I suspect I can now put my BAP back in-line with the fuel pump and all will be well. The BAP is most likely fine!!
I did notice on a test drive that under full throttle my fuel pressure dropped from 60 PSI to just under 50 PSI!
I do not think my pressure ever dropped more than 1 or 2 PSI when the BAP was installed and working. I think this is pretty good evidence that the BAP does its job!!
Thanks to everyone for the advice and help with my recent electrical issues!!
I did notice on a test drive that under full throttle my fuel pressure dropped from 60 PSI to just under 50 PSI!
I do not think my pressure ever dropped more than 1 or 2 PSI when the BAP was installed and working. I think this is pretty good evidence that the BAP does its job!!Thanks to everyone for the advice and help with my recent electrical issues!!
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
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From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
The car also in thowing out a "Service Charging System" message on the DIC. I have not solved that issue yet either if any of you have an idea. I did pull the alternator and had the local auto shop bench test it. It passed their tests, but I am not 100% sure it is good. Any suggestions???
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,509
Likes: 9
From: Norman OK
I used an ohm meter and a schematic. Ended up being the alternator power cable that runs to the starter. This is the cable that shorted to the header. On the end near the starter is a fusable link. Within its insulation (could not visually see anything wrong) the fusable link had opened, but was intermittently making contact with high resistance. $6.42 later, problem solved! No codes and no other issues so far!
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
I went old school on it!! I used an ohm meter and a schematic. Ended up being the alternator power cable that runs to the starter. This is the cable that shorted to the header. On the end near the starter is a fusable link. Within its insulation (could not visually see anything wrong) the fusable link had opened, but was intermittently making contact with high resistance. $6.42 later, problem solved! No codes and no other issues so far!
I used an ohm meter and a schematic. Ended up being the alternator power cable that runs to the starter. This is the cable that shorted to the header. On the end near the starter is a fusable link. Within its insulation (could not visually see anything wrong) the fusable link had opened, but was intermittently making contact with high resistance. $6.42 later, problem solved! No codes and no other issues so far! Electrical problems are such a be-otch. I'd rather deal with mechanical issues any day.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 11
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Wiring issues don't bother me as much because they are typically much CHEAPER to repair... When something mechanical breaks, you get to identify the problem and then buy a part to fix it.. With electrical issues a lot of times it is a short or a poor connection and even when something is burned out, those parts are cheap
Joke: All electronic components are actually made of compressed smoke. When the smoke leaks out, they stop working
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 6,149
Likes: 11
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
I did notice on a test drive that under full throttle my fuel pressure dropped from 60 PSI to just under 50 PSI! I do not think my pressure ever dropped more than 1 or 2 PSI when the BAP was installed and working. I think this is pretty good evidence that the BAP does its job!!
I do not think my pressure ever dropped more than 1 or 2 PSI when the BAP was installed and working. I think this is pretty good evidence that the BAP does its job!!
You will notice that the fuel system wants to maintain a steady 60PSI.
At exactly 4PSI the BAP comes on creating a transient spike that stabilizes soon after (notice it causes no issues with the air/fuel ratio). From there the fuel pressure gradually drops, DESPITE the BAP, to 55PSI at redline.
This is a problem though because at redline the car is also under 10PSI boost, so the *effective* fuel pressure is only 45PSI.
My fuel injector duty cycle there is around 85% with 60lbs/hr injectors.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,960
Likes: 21
From: West Norriton PA
St. Jude Donor '08
Yeah, I agree most electrical problems are cheaper to fix but they are not fun to figure out.
BTW, Nice Pic's
, I had similar problem with rear tail-light harness.
BTW, Nice Pic's
, I had similar problem with rear tail-light harness.
