Here is the plan together with the cool dudes from Champion (supporting vendor) here in Toronto:

LS2 stock bottom end,
D1SC 8 rib
Innovator's west oversized 8 rib upgrade pulley.
(8lb pulley on head unit and a couple extra lbs with the balancer}.
1 3/4 LG headers, magnaflows
317 heads (lower the compression)
LS7 head gaskets (slightly thicker thna others)
ARP head studs, arp cam bolts, balancer bolts.
Upgrade oil pump
boostapump
Methanol injection
Harland Sharp (pedestal rockers)
Manley double spring setup, tit retainers
ECS 346 blower can
160 thermostat
Stock LS2 TB & intake.

At this point it looks like Arun@champion is gonna do the tune......
safety will be a priority....

Any guesses as to how much WHP we can make?
Man, what an adrenaline rush putting together a high powered build....relatively speaking.
Hoping for plenty of early torque.


chris

 

The D1SC is a big blower, so the power potential is definitely there... What is holding you back is your bottom end. That setup can make high 700s at the wheels, but wether you or your tuner want to chance that on a stock bottom is a different story.
As far as plenty of early torque... You are dropping compression and putting a cam in it; if you wanted low end torque you'd be better off with a smaller blower and stock compression.
My 2 cents worth...

 

Not too late for me to put the LS2 heads on instead of the 317's. I do want that early jam. That's one reason why I did not step up the size of headers to 1 7/8's. Just worried about crap gas.
Was thinking I would only make 550 to 600 WHP. It is a baby blower cam.
Methanol will be another safety factor.....again relatively speaking.
Sincere thanx for the advise....car is apart already and kinda have made my bed.


chris

 

The header thing is a complete MYTH. I bought into it against my better judgement and education, and I spent over 2 thousand dollars doing a documented back to back comparison between 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" headers (click link for the actual thread). If anything, the larger primaries actually showed a slight torque gain in the sub 3500rpm region, although all those results are right around the limits of the accuracy of a dyno.
Nothing will cost you more low end torque and engine responsiveness than dropping the compression. The ONLY reason to drop compression in an engine is if you are unable to run as much boost as you want to meet your power goals at the stock compression level: dropping compression allows more boost to be run which makes it possible to make more power, at the trade off of reduced fuel consumption, reduced low end torque, and reduced responsiveness. Since you have a stock bottom end, you will not be able to benefit from the potential to make more power, but you WILL see the trade offs.
Same thing with the cam... Cams work by shifting where peak volumetric efficiency occurs in an engine. I.E. They trade low end torque for more torque at the top where it translates into power gains. On a stock bottom end you can make as much or more power than is safe for the engine with the stock cam, so you really don't need a blower cam.
Your build has all the elements of a high peak hp race motor, except for the botom end... I would either forge the bottom end and go for the high peak HP the other stuff you got will be good for, or I would reconsider some of those choices in light of your real goals...

 

Been a old school middle aged big block drag racer for years. Smaller primaries always brought torque in earlier. These LS motors are new to me....incredible.
You have persuaded me to go to the thinner gasket than what we ordered, compression will be about 10:1 vs the 9:5 with the thicker head gasket. Too late for the heads....in the shop.....and the bottom end....well I hope it will last for a couple years. It will be a super safe tune. Let us pray.
Will post results in about a week.
Thanx Sam.

 

Jutskin,

With a relaxed tune (and meth) 700 RWHP will last you for many years!

 

I am guessing 650-700 with the right tune and 12-14# boost. Stick with the larger blower - you may even want to go with a F1 for the marginal cost. It will not be as efficient on paper, but I do not think you will notice a difference, plus you will have room to grow if you needs change. If you are in the market for heads, I am selling my HKE prepped LS2 heads - ready to go with Patriot Extreme springs and Ti retainers - $600 These are the heads on my car that made 905 at the wheels.

 

Car is work in progress and a change would screw efficiences at Rob's shop. Not cool. We made plans. His place is busy...easy to understand why.
Car will make plenty of power for a stock LS2 bottom end, ...no real need for heads?
If this thread was a few weeks earlier we would have had a deal for your heads. Spending coin too rebuilding the 317's with high end manley components....... I coulda saved some major coin. Thanx anyway.

chris

 

Chris,

John's heads would enable you to make more power at a lower boost level. This translates to less stress on your bottom-end which means a longer life. You may or may not know this but I just wanted you to understand the benefits of going with something like what he offered.

 

I getcha. thanx.
Just kinda late in the build process to change.......but.....never say never.

 

I can't speak to the LS2 or LS3, but on the LS7, the 1 3/4" primary headers made more mid-range torque than the 1 7/8" primary headers, but the big primaries made more top end power.

 

Thanks. I hope that is my case scenario..... Mid range is good.....and regularly useable.
So many variables to make a build work well and your chosen parts working effectively together.

 

So what your saying is basically if I was going to go with lets say a ECS kit or A&A kit to make 650-700rwhp, you wouldn't forge the bottom end because its a waste of $$$. Is it worth it to if you plan on taking her to the strip once a month or so??

Thanks in advance

 

I think the simple answer to your question is that it's only "worth" forging IF you 1) want a lot more power than 750 RWHP, and 2) if your motor happens to pop before you get there!

If you're going to be happy with 700 RWHP, then forget about forging the bottom end.

Your car is going to be absolutely ungodly just as it will be delivered!

 

Ed LOL. Well lets say that 700rwhp for the street and 100shot for the strip to get well into the 9's and kicked out of PBIR

Then I might want to forge with the juice

Funny thing Ive heard this somewhere before but i can't remeber who it was from, run meth and race gas and then spray it. Thats what i was planning on doing

 

Z06 Beast,

There is a forging in your immediate future (that's a LOT of stress on the OEM bottom-end)!

BTW, with 700 RWHP you shouldn't need an additional 100 shot to get into the 9's.

 

Yea i was planning on it. I might just go with a big H/C pakcage (Like RattG)forge the bottom and hit it with a 300 shot and see if what I could do with that.

Problem for me is that im on a budget, and i know my personality, after like 6 months im going to probablly want more power. I hear 600-620rwhp is max on LS7 NA motor. So thats why Im leaning towards the SC route.

Alot of pro's and cons with each. H/C NA with N20 is Drive ability and bad gas mileage(But i love that mean rumble from a big cam). SC is cost and over heating can be a problem down here in South Florida.

Also I would go SC all the way if there was a tire out there that is worth a crap from a dead stop WOT with 700+rwhp.

I have no idea how you can drive yours with 1000+

Thanks for the help pal

 

Z06,

My pleasure!

Hey, I will tell you - you have a solid plan...

The BEST car I've ever owned was my Heads/Cam/Header/Heads/Tune/Nitrous C6Z with a drag radial on it.

The car had the nasty "old school" cam hitting a lick, without the nitrous would walk away from a 600cc bike, on the nitrous would pull away from a 'busa on the highway, would still get 25 MPG and was just as reliable as it was from the factory.

The only advice I can give you is this: Go with a wet shot. 175 MAX (on the stock bottom end) and make sure your fuel pressure doesn't drop with a shot of nitrous as big as 175. That will be right on the edge of what a stock fuel system can keep up with! Also, make sure you keep your timing reasonably low!! You will put down 750-760 RWHP and about 850 lbs-ft of torque if you spray at 2500 RPM.

I have several 1,000+ RWHP rides and I'm here to tell you - this was my FAVORITE car of all time! It was such a lethal combination and SO simple (and cheap to do...)... Good luck!

 

Chris it was nice to meet you today! Combo looks perfect-this is the car Rob was discussing with me-use the LS2's head gaskets' with the 317 heads-the thickness is the same. You don't want a thin head gasket with FI-the "swirl effect" is out the window when your blown!

650 RWHP is about as far as your fuel system will take you-after that it's just a bandaid with meth. Those 20's of yours are gonna cry all day, everyday with the 20's-beleive me!

Your gonna wanna put a blower on the Chevelle after this!

 

Almost the same setup as mine, but a better headunit in your setup... the car will make up to ~ 875rwhp provided the fuel system sees an upgrade... I'm up in Buffalo, and spending time in Ontario as well... Be here a few more weeks working, man this April weather has been crazy!!!
Arun will take good care of you... just follow his lead...