Procharger tensioner problem
#1
Procharger tensioner problem
I cant take the squealing anymore. I have changed the tensioner 3 times and the belt countless times now and still seem to have the same problem again and again. it seems to be that every time i change the belt we think the problem is solved . for the fist 50 miles or so the noise is gone and the belt appears to be riding down the center of the tensioner pulley. after that the noise starts to come back and the belt starts to ride towards the front and rubs on the lip of the pulley. the shop that had changed the last tensioner assembly said that they did not see any problem with the pulley alignment. I have recently received a new tensioner w/ the new plastic pulley from procharger but i am hesitant to install it because i am afraid that i am going to eventually throw the belt if it rides to the front of the pulley. it seems that if i put pressure behind the tensioner while the car is running the belt seems to run back to the middle of the belt which leads me to believe that the tensioner needs to somehow be shimmed or it is just a bad unit.
any help or advise would be greatly appreciated. thanks
any help or advise would be greatly appreciated. thanks
#3
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Sep 2005
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My 6 rib set-up was the same way as the belt would ride towards the front and the edge of the belt would get a bit worn and eventually it would be thrown or destroyed. I would have to check the belt before going out driving and worry when I got on it that it would be game over for me. I lost a few belts at top end to this alignment problem and I was told that it was because of the horsepower of my car and NOT the alignment. I was told it was dead on and it wasn't because when it was checked by Geoff at Next Level Performance with the laser aligning tool it was off. It looked dead on by eye but WITH the tool you could see where it needed to be aligned. I also upgraded to the 8 rib set-up and Andy's bracket and since then I haven't had a belt problem EVER.
#4
Race Director
After you change to the new tensioner put on a Gatorback belt. The stock belts always seem to squeal for some reason. I had to replace the original ATI belt and after ECS made some blower modifications they installed a NAPA belt and I had to replace it right away because of the squeal when cold. Both times after installing the Gatorback belt all noise was completely eliminated.
#5
I am using a gatorback belt now and it squeals. if i cant get the belt to stop running to the front of the pulley and rubbing on the lip i don't think it will matter what belt i use. by the way the squeal only happens when the car is under load. if at idle or clutch is pushed in while coming to a light or stop sign the noise goes away.
#6
Race Director
I am using a gatorback belt now and it squeals. if i cant get the belt to stop running to the front of the pulley and rubbing on the lip i don't think it will matter what belt i use. by the way the squeal only happens when the car is under load. if at idle or clutch is pushed in while coming to a light or stop sign the noise goes away.
#7
Melting Slicks
#8
Former Vendor
Member Since: Feb 2009
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I think you will find that the tensioner with the plastic pulley will help you out a bunch. I had a couple cars with the squeal issue and while waiting for the Procharger fix I went ahead and installed e plastic pulley I have used in the past on the tensioner along with a slightly longer belt and no more squeal.
I would also say you may want to use a new gatorback belt also when you do the tensioner.
If for some reason you end up getting the squeal noise back, then Andy's bracket upgrade will take care of it. It does make it tougher to change a belt with the A&A setup, but then again it should be a non issue with no more belt related problems.
Hope this helps.
Mike Norris
I would also say you may want to use a new gatorback belt also when you do the tensioner.
If for some reason you end up getting the squeal noise back, then Andy's bracket upgrade will take care of it. It does make it tougher to change a belt with the A&A setup, but then again it should be a non issue with no more belt related problems.
Hope this helps.
Mike Norris
#9
My 6 rib set-up was the same way as the belt would ride towards the front and the edge of the belt would get a bit worn and eventually it would be thrown or destroyed. I would have to check the belt before going out driving and worry when I got on it that it would be game over for me. I lost a few belts at top end to this alignment problem and I was told that it was because of the horsepower of my car and NOT the alignment. I was told it was dead on and it wasn't because when it was checked by Geoff at Next Level Performance with the laser aligning tool it was off. It looked dead on by eye but WITH the tool you could see where it needed to be aligned. I also upgraded to the 8 rib set-up and Andy's bracket and since then I haven't had a belt problem EVER.
#10
bro it’s literally been almost 10 years since the last reply to this thread. Holy revival.....
#11
Drifting
laser alignment will not do, because everything is flexing under load. use a non flanged blower pulley and adjust lower tensioner so its slightly off center. make a few passes and see if belt jumped a rib. if not drive against the rev limiter a couple of times. if belt jumps a rib, move blower pulley that way 1.5 ribs (5mm). adjust tensioner to center and try again.
Well, that was for an ecs paxton actually, but must be similar for procharger.
Well, that was for an ecs paxton actually, but must be similar for procharger.
Last edited by romandian; 11-01-2018 at 02:11 AM.
#12
Top causes for belt shredding/hop:
1) OEM harmonic balancer - is it wobbling at all? Is it backing off the crank snout toward the front of the car?
2) Pulley alignment. I recommend the Dayco laser alignment kit as it is cheaper than the Gates and does not need to be calibrated. Remember to check for all 3 versions of misalignment.
3) Flexing/misaligned tensioner. I ran into this problem with my procharger tensioner. Replaced the pulley and i-bolt and it only got worse. Switched to A&A bracket last week and SO FAR no problems.
4) belt too tight or too loose.
I'd check #1 first if you keep getting the squeaking.
1) OEM harmonic balancer - is it wobbling at all? Is it backing off the crank snout toward the front of the car?
2) Pulley alignment. I recommend the Dayco laser alignment kit as it is cheaper than the Gates and does not need to be calibrated. Remember to check for all 3 versions of misalignment.
3) Flexing/misaligned tensioner. I ran into this problem with my procharger tensioner. Replaced the pulley and i-bolt and it only got worse. Switched to A&A bracket last week and SO FAR no problems.
4) belt too tight or too loose.
I'd check #1 first if you keep getting the squeaking.
#13
Race Director
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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if all else fails an a&a bracket should fix it, all around it's just a much better design
Last edited by neutron82; 11-08-2018 at 08:56 PM.
#14
Melting Slicks
So I have no issues so far out of my procharger bracket. But when looking the notches on the bracket, Mine sitting turned off is In the middle not tightened to the bottom one... I also am running low boost, and a big pulley so maybe that's why?
#15
I’m not really understanding your question or problem. Pics would also help.
#16
Melting Slicks
On the procharger tensioner there is 2 notches on one side an a single on the belt side, and you supposed to have them lined up with one of the 2, mine is in the middle.
Last edited by mittens; 11-09-2018 at 03:17 PM.
#17
To my understanding (source: Procharger tech on the phone), it should be in the middle of those two notches, AFTER your belt is tightened down.
#18
Melting Slicks
Ok well mine is in the middle but I was reading another guys thread where he was having problems and he was saying it shoul dbe aligned with one of them (I don't remember which one).
Guess I will let her ride until I havbe a issue ha
Guess I will let her ride until I havbe a issue ha