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I've read a few threads where some people are just shorting the leads from the adjustment together. I've read some who say don't do this as it will cause fuel pump failure faster. I'm not quite sure how the BAP actually works. It's got the dial, which i assume controls voltage, and then it's got a boost reference control. So here's what I'm not sure about. Is the boost reference just an "on/off" or does it actually vary voltage based on boost, if so how do you set this up with the lean/rich dial.
Would be very interested to know how you guys are setting these up.
MSD bap here.
I set it with a bicycle pump to no more than 14.8v at any time, even under boost.
Seems to work fine.
Works out to about a 10% increase over stock voltage, which hopefully won't kill the pump too quickly.
The KB is also activated by boost but I was under the assumption voltage to the BAP increased as rpm's increased once boost is achieved.
I know it can't be RPM regulated as there is no connection to let it know what the RPM is. It just has the vacuum connection and 12+ connection. I just wasn't sure if it continually varried the voltage based on boost, or if it just turned on to the set voltage once you were under boost.
Thanks for all the info guys. Now I just gotta figure out how to tune this thing!
Last edited by Atomic-Vette; May 24, 2009 at 07:23 PM.
That works for a minute.Then your fuse box will burn up and leave you 434.00 lighter in the pocket.It is triggered by the vacume switch which I put in the brake booster vacume line.
My installer was told to cut the RCA, connect the two leads together & go from there. Reason for not leaving the rca controller was that if it comes loose in boost, you will go lean & cook something.
That works for a minute.Then your fuse box will burn up and leave you 434.00 lighter in the pocket.It is triggered by the vacume switch which I put in the brake booster vacume line.
were you using it with the RaceTronix wiring harness? I would think this should avoid burning up the factory wiring.
Just out of curiosity, I assume the MSD has a manual controller but do you have it set at the max setting?
If I remember correctly I have it set about half way to max out at about 16v. It can be adjusted up to 22v which I think would be to much for the fuel pump.
I used compressed air with a regulator to vary the air pressure while measuring the output with a meter to adjust the settings.
If I remember correctly I have it set about half way to max out at about 16v. It can be adjusted up to 22v which I think would be to much for the fuel pump.
I used compressed air with a regulator to vary the air pressure while measuring the output with a meter to adjust the settings.
After a little research I've found these are a little more sophisticated than than I was giving them credit for. I agree 22 volts would probably be way to much for stock pump. My KB maxes out at 17.5.
FYI, my tuner strongly advised against using any device that will increase voltage to the fuel pump. He sighted burnt fuse boxes, wires and fuel pumps. We did install the RaceTronics wire harness that takes current directly off the alternator to the pump, to avoid the risk of the current varying due to loads on the battery. My ProCharged car makes 550 rwhp and has a strong A/F graph. I've never had any issue with this set-up. My tuner believes that the stock pump is good for 600 rwhp. After that, a new dedicated fuel system is a good idea.
My personal opinion is I don't like them... I don't like the idea of all those items in the fuel system that can fail. I had IPS Motorsports make me a custom fuel system that could handle my HP requirements without the BAP.
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