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A few minutes of hard driving and then 20 minutes of stop and go driving. That's a more real world test of what most of these cars will go through. It's easier to keep 'em cool at speed as long as you're not hammering on them constantly. Not too many of us have a place where we can safely use all of the power for an extended run.
Last edited by old motorhead; Jul 27, 2009 at 09:21 AM.
A few minutes of hard driving and then 20 minutes of stop and go driving. That's a more real word test of what most of these cars will go through. It's easier to keep 'em cool at speed as long as you're not hammering on them constantly. Not too many of us have a place where we can safely use all of the power for an extended run.
I agree. WOT and stop and go is a bad combination in 100 degree plus with humidity in the 90 percent range.
A few minutes of hard driving and then 20 minutes of stop and go driving. That's a more real world test of what most of these cars will go through. It's easier to keep 'em cool at speed as long as you're not hammering on them constantly. Not too many of us have a place where we can safely use all of the power for an extended run.
Yes for the cooling system, however 20min SOLID driving will put a lot more stress on the engine and the blower. also it WILL generate more heat then 30seconds on the gas then 20min stop and start!
also Road course work will often heat soak blowers to HELL!
Yes for the cooling system, however 20min SOLID driving will put a lot more stress on the engine and the blower. also it WILL generate more heat then 30seconds on the gas then 20min stop and start!
also Road course work will often heat soak blowers to HELL!
Chris.
I agree...
Hard driving in the streets, especially at high-speeds which give the engine plenty of air flow, doesn't come close to 20-30minutes on a road course behind a good driver.
Hard driving in the streets, especially at high-speeds which give the engine plenty of air flow, doesn't come close to 20-30minutes on a road course behind a good driver.
Thanks AVB. By the way what temps did you PTK twin turboed 408 C5 run at at the road course?
Thanks AVB. By the way what temps did you PTK twin turboed 408 C5 run at at the road course?
Chris.
How you doin Chris...
With lots of additional cooling mods and when I wasn't burning a plug wire here and there , I could run back to back sessions even when track temps were above 100 degrees. It should be ALOT easier to to keep things cool with this or any other FI unit, when compared to a topmount like PTK.
With FI you'll have more power than you could ever use on the road course so pick up an alkycontrol kit and shoot water (yes, water not alcohol) to minimize rising air temps and heat soak. The water may keep you from that last 20 hp but if you've got 650rwhp (assuming since I don't know) who cares.
I say, take it to a local track with a really good driver. Post lap times and oil and water temps 2/3rds into the session and right after. The lap times will tell us how if it was being run hard
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by AVB
How you doin Chris...
With lots of additional cooling mods and when I wasn't burning a plug wire here and there , I could run back to back sessions even when track temps were above 100 degrees. It should be ALOT easier to to keep things cool with this or any other FI unit, when compared to a topmount like PTK.
With FI you'll have more power than you could ever use on the road course so pick up an alkycontrol kit and shoot water (yes, water not alcohol) to minimize rising air temps and heat soak. The water may keep you from that last 20 hp but if you've got 650rwhp (assuming since I don't know) who cares.
AVB
Actually you can GAIN HP with water injection...
Back in World War 2 supercharged bomber planes used just that to give the engine the extra horsepower it needed for takeoff... It cools down the intake charge and supresses detonation.