Twin Turbo - Your inputs
#1
2nd Gear
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Twin Turbo - Your inputs
Hello Everyone, this is my first post on Corvette Forum. I just bought a 2006 z06 with a blown engine. I'm planning to rebuild the engine using an LSX block from GM Performance parts with all new insides and twin turbo it.
My goal is to hit 750 HP to the wheel, but I wanted to get some input - I have read many different opinions about how much power the block can handle, that's why I chose to use the LSX block BUT, I haven't been able to find anything about how much power the STOCK transmission and differential can handle. Any input? If they can't handle the power, what are your recommendations? I want this to be a daily driver. I'm planning on running drag radials
My goal is to hit 750 HP to the wheel, but I wanted to get some input - I have read many different opinions about how much power the block can handle, that's why I chose to use the LSX block BUT, I haven't been able to find anything about how much power the STOCK transmission and differential can handle. Any input? If they can't handle the power, what are your recommendations? I want this to be a daily driver. I'm planning on running drag radials
#2
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '08
For your goals of 750rw, I think you're wasting money on the LSx block. The stock block can take that power or if your wanting a little peace of mind, just have a set of forged rods and pistons in your current block and then choose a TT kit.
#3
Former Vendor
Call or PM me - I have several solutions including LS7, LSx and RHS based platforms.
Hello Everyone, this is my first post on Corvette Forum. I just bought a 2006 z06 with a blown engine. I'm planning to rebuild the engine using an LSX block from GM Performance parts with all new insides and twin turbo it.
My goal is to hit 750 HP to the wheel, but I wanted to get some input - I have read many different opinions about how much power the block can handle, that's why I chose to use the LSX block BUT, I haven't been able to find anything about how much power the STOCK transmission and differential can handle. Any input? If they can't handle the power, what are your recommendations? I want this to be a daily driver. I'm planning on running drag radials
My goal is to hit 750 HP to the wheel, but I wanted to get some input - I have read many different opinions about how much power the block can handle, that's why I chose to use the LSX block BUT, I haven't been able to find anything about how much power the STOCK transmission and differential can handle. Any input? If they can't handle the power, what are your recommendations? I want this to be a daily driver. I'm planning on running drag radials
#4
Melting Slicks
Sorry but I don't think its a wast of money. His motor is blown so some type of machining has to be done to the block. A LSX block is very cheap and supports 2000+hp. So he has room to grow in hp.
#5
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Thanks GIO - That's my thought. I understand the LS7 engine can handle a lot of power, but constant HIGH psi from twin turbos (8-15 PSI) and wanting to add more int future, I should build a solid foundation correct? As for the handling, I am building the car, so I can just beef up the suspension to handle it, I was thinking pfadt suspension. BUT my main concern is still the transmission and the differential. I dont think they can handle the power, what would you go with? do you guys have any suggestions?
#6
Former Vendor
Thanks GIO - That's my thought. I understand the LS7 engine can handle a lot of power, but constant HIGH psi from twin turbos (8-15 PSI) and wanting to add more int future, I should build a solid foundation correct? As for the handling, I am building the car, so I can just beef up the suspension to handle it, I was thinking pfadt suspension. BUT my main concern is still the transmission and the differential. I dont think they can handle the power, what would you go with? do you guys have any suggestions?
#7
Melting Slicks
#9
Drifting
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Depends on if you are planning on trying to get a number out of the car at the track or not. If your going to be gunning for some serious 60's and low ET's, it would be wise to build the transmission and differential with some of the more well known vendors on this forum. If not, wheelspin will save both from having too much abuse as there isn't going to be a street tire that will hook that much power.
#10
There's alot of guys running stock block and forged internals pushing 7-750 whp. I was running that # on an entire stock block. You say you want to DD it and your goal is 750ish. I think if you are palnning on ******* the hell out of it and eventually want more power then just forge the internals. How much are you willing to spend, are you wanting to do an heads and cam as well? Also it would depend on how a good deal you get from your engine builder too, if money is not an option go with an aftermarket block and 6 bolt your stock heads. Have you talked to a builder yet?
#11
Former Vendor
There's alot of guys running stock block and forged internals pushing 7-750 whp. I was running that # on an entire stock block. You say you want to DD it and your goal is 750ish. I think if you are palnning on ******* the hell out of it and eventually want more power then just forge the internals. How much are you willing to spend, are you wanting to do an heads and cam as well? Also it would depend on how a good deal you get from your engine builder too, if money is not an option go with an aftermarket block and 6 bolt your stock heads. Have you talked to a builder yet?
#12
Racer
And is also Iron and very heavy. Already adding twin turbo setup to the car which will add weight. He is better off with an aluminum block for anything in the 750rwhp range.
#13
Safety Car
RPM Transmissions will take care of your drivetrain needs
If I were to do it again I would stick with an aluminum block with no matter what bore, a short stroke. At 10:1 and a mild cam even stock cubes w/ forged pistons/rods will get you to your goals easy. Just put a combination together that is at it's sweet spot right at your power goal and not just entering it.
If I were to do it again I would stick with an aluminum block with no matter what bore, a short stroke. At 10:1 and a mild cam even stock cubes w/ forged pistons/rods will get you to your goals easy. Just put a combination together that is at it's sweet spot right at your power goal and not just entering it.
#14
Melting Slicks
Akrapovič Titanium Evolution exhaust 31lb. lost
Braille Lithium-Ion Battery 9.1lbs 21lb. lost
Diet- lose 18lb.
Problem taken care of
#15
Safety Car
Now is the time to take advantage of that motor being toasted and put something that will really hold. A LSX block is fantastic as it can hold sick power and have the strength of iron... it adds weight but that can be remedied.
You also have solutions from RHS or even a properly sleeved LS2 block. Whatever you do, get the 6-bolt heads on there and call it a day. You will have great clamping and a motor that can see some real boost.
A LSX is what I would do as at that power level, 750rwhp+++ another 70lbs (which can be offset with exhaust, battery, seats, flywheel, brake rotors, wheels+tires, etc.) isn't going to be a big deal.
You also have solutions from RHS or even a properly sleeved LS2 block. Whatever you do, get the 6-bolt heads on there and call it a day. You will have great clamping and a motor that can see some real boost.
A LSX is what I would do as at that power level, 750rwhp+++ another 70lbs (which can be offset with exhaust, battery, seats, flywheel, brake rotors, wheels+tires, etc.) isn't going to be a big deal.
#16
Drifting
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^ What both you and the poster above you don't realize is that the LSX block is 70lbs heavier than your standard production iron block from GM, not aluminium. It is the better part of 150lbs heavier than an LS2 or LS7 block.
Last edited by 1.8t; 04-06-2010 at 04:46 PM.
#17
Melting Slicks
It's still a great block for the price.
#18
Drifting
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It most definitely is and if your goal is 1500+ hp, then it is by far your best/only option. However, a sleeved aluminium block can handle 1200hp all day long and will do a much better job of keeping the weight off the car and the handling characteristics as close to stock as they can be.
#20
Le Mans Master