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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 10:09 PM
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Default Overheated Z!!!

Couple months ago, i had overheating issues. The Z was overheating quickly whenever it wanted too, because the fans weren't comin on. Took it to the dealer,fan module checked out ok. they said the fans came on and never overheated on them. Even when i drove back home from the dealer it didn't heat up.Today, 100* weather, i turnd the Z on and made sure the fans cut on before i drove off. Im about 7-8mins from the house and the temps climb up quick, 243-45-46, i made a quick U-turn and headed back to the house. Damn traffic on the way back, and the fans were off. 250! on the coolant temp, and right when im pulling into my driveway, steam from a kettle, comin out the from under the hood, pissed all the coolant and the Z died!!!!Not quite, i let it cool off and drove it into the garage. Now, the car does have bolt-on mods, stock radiator, and we just changed out the thermostat not too long ago. What are the damges? Do i have internal damge to the engine, head gaskets need to be replaced, or maybe the thermostat didnt open up, or what? Thanks for the input guys
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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Pelon,

I'm sorry to hear about what's going on with your car!

Sounds like your water pump isn't moving the proper volume of water since you've ruled out fan failure!

If you only hit 250, then you're ok! If you hit 260, then you MIGHT still be ok, too. Worst case, you mill the heads to true them up.

But let's get your problem fixed! I'd say start with the water pump at this point!
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:05 PM
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Sorry, but the fans werent working today when it overheated and leaked coolant. Coolant temps got to 253sh before i finally cut it off.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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Pelon,

OK, you have fan issues. Time to get that fixed!

Did it spew coolant around where the heads are attached to the block or out of the overflow? You MAY be OK if it spewed only from the overflow!
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:17 PM
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Get Mike to check the connection above the fan control module attached to the fan shroud. Mine melted a couple of weeks ago. Pretty sure the middle (ground) terminal is melted. Houston heat! Gotta love it!
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:17 PM
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From the overflow, also the DIC came up "change engine oil"
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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ok, overflow is not a problem!

Also, the change engine oil is also not an issue. That's a default trigger code when you overheat. Just check to make sure you don't have choco milk flavoured oil and if not, you should be fine!

Finally some good news, right?
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by EdwardETraylorIII
ok, overflow is not a problem!

Also, the change engine oil is also not an issue. That's a default trigger code when you overheat. Just check to make sure you don't have choco milk flavoured oil and if not, you should be fine!

Finally some good news, right?

Cool, now i can go to sleep comfortablly without thinking imma have to spend a grip on getting it fixed


Hey n77nxc, doesn't your car have the dewitts radiator? Is it worth the swap?
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by PELONSZ06
Cool, now i can go to sleep comfortablly without thinking imma have to spend a grip on getting it fixed


Hey n77nxc, doesn't your car have the dewitts radiator? Is it worth the swap?
Yep, I definitely think its worth it. I'm not sure how the Z core compares to a base C6 but my stock radiator was pretty wimpy compared to the DeWitts.

I think your car is fine. Get the fans sorted out and you'll be good to go.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 11:38 PM
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I just might do one.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 12:07 AM
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If its the usual issue. the aftermarket tune puts the fan at 90% to turn on as soon as it can. so that fries the harness north of the relay on the fan instead of blowing the 60amp circuit breaker in the box in the engine.

do a search to see the fix

if your harness looks like this then you need to bypass it.


it could be like powerlabs issue that somehow else he got fixed.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 06:12 AM
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Default Overheating Z

This is always a big problem with a Sc'd Z. You have a few choices all of which can be done in summation.

1. Put in a 160 Deg stat.
2. Add the dewitts but disconnect the tranny cooler portion as it seems to actually heat up the engine coolant.
3. Program the fan to come on sooner and longer but the fan connector will melt. You must make your own connector or purchase an extra HVy duty replacement from an eletronics house. (I made my own).
4. Add additional coolers such as seperate oil and trany coolers. They can be placed in any (hard to find area). I ended up placing mine in my fog light openings (Earls makes a curved cooler which fits perfect).
5. Coat your headers (primaries) wth Nitroplate (the best IMO).
6. Change out your hood to allow air to be drawn from and out of the engine bay.
7. Good Luck!
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 08:51 AM
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Cut the plugs off completely and hardwire it. You will fix your problem. I did!!!
Your plug got hot and is shorting out and not making good contact for the fans to operate properly.

Mine was doing the same.

I bought another fan module and that was a waste of $. (It was not the problem)

I also did not see a big difference when I added the dewitts radiator. Its thicker yes, but it does not allow as much air as the stocker did with the cooler in place. (less room for air)

Last edited by BADZ; Jun 7, 2010 at 11:29 AM.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by PELONSZ06
Couple months ago, i had overheating issues. The Z was overheating quickly whenever it wanted too, because the fans weren't comin on. Took it to the dealer,fan module checked out ok. they said the fans came on and never overheated on them. Even when i drove back home from the dealer it didn't heat up.Today, 100* weather, i turnd the Z on and made sure the fans cut on before i drove off. Im about 7-8mins from the house and the temps climb up quick, 243-45-46, i made a quick U-turn and headed back to the house. Damn traffic on the way back, and the fans were off. 250! on the coolant temp, and right when im pulling into my driveway, steam from a kettle, comin out the from under the hood, pissed all the coolant and the Z died!!!!Not quite, i let it cool off and drove it into the garage. Now, the car does have bolt-on mods, stock radiator, and we just changed out the thermostat not too long ago. What are the damges? Do i have internal damge to the engine, head gaskets need to be replaced, or maybe the thermostat didnt open up, or what? Thanks for the input guys
Have a talk with your tuner. As mentioned above the fan settings could be frying the controller. Also, depending on the year, you may not be able to set the fans to lower than 192* w/o going to a 2.5 bar tune which is a good idea to do either way imo.

I was seeing 192-200 on the hwy yesterday afternoon which is higher than last summer which surprised me. I'm wondering if the fact I have a higher ratio of antifreeze vs water is all that is.

Pull the dipstick tube. If you see something that looks like it came from Starbucks you lifted the heads. Regardless, if you spew coolant anytime you hit boost you lifted a head.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by drivinfast
If its the usual issue. the aftermarket tune puts the fan at 90% to turn on as soon as it can. so that fries the harness north of the relay on the fan instead of blowing the 60amp circuit breaker in the box in the engine.

do a search to see the fix

if your harness looks like this then you need to bypass it.


it could be like powerlabs issue that somehow else he got fixed.
It happened to me twice; BOTH plugs fried; when the first one cooked I soldered the wires into the controller directly, then the second plug cooked as well...
Moral of the story: there is a reason those fans don't turn on 90% of the time on a factory tune...
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:56 PM
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if you spew coolant anytime you hit boost you lifted a head.
This isn't accurate. One can certainly spew coolant because the temp just get's too high (250+ degs- as in this case). This does NOT necessarily mean a head lifted at any time. However, it's not hard to lift a head if you've got too much boost and/or detonation. I think this is what user_name meant.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CPG1962
This is always a big problem with a Sc'd Z. You have a few choices all of which can be done in summation.

1. Put in a 160 Deg stat.
2. Add the dewitts but disconnect the tranny cooler portion as it seems to actually heat up the engine coolant.
3. Program the fan to come on sooner and longer but the fan connector will melt. You must make your own connector or purchase an extra HVy duty replacement from an eletronics house. (I made my own).
4. Add additional coolers such as seperate oil and trany coolers. They can be placed in any (hard to find area). I ended up placing mine in my fog light openings (Earls makes a curved cooler which fits perfect).
5. Coat your headers (primaries) wth Nitroplate (the best IMO).
6. Change out your hood to allow air to be drawn from and out of the engine bay.
7. Good Luck!
This is the recipe for sucess. The only thing I would add is an electric water pump. I saw a 10-15* drop in temps around town and in stop n go.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CPG1962
This is always a big problem with a Sc'd Z. You have a few choices all of which can be done in summation.

1. Put in a 160 Deg stat.
2. Add the dewitts but disconnect the tranny cooler portion as it seems to actually heat up the engine coolant.
3. Program the fan to come on sooner and longer but the fan connector will melt. You must make your own connector or purchase an extra HVy duty replacement from an eletronics house. (I made my own).
4. Add additional coolers such as seperate oil and trany coolers. They can be placed in any (hard to find area). I ended up placing mine in my fog light openings (Earls makes a curved cooler which fits perfect).
5. Coat your headers (primaries) wth Nitroplate (the best IMO).
6. Change out your hood to allow air to be drawn from and out of the engine bay.
7. Good Luck!
CPG, I was thinking about separating the trans and engine oil coolers from my DeWitts radiator with those curved Earls coolers through the fog light openings. Will it matter if I just plug the secondary coolers or shold I completely replace my combo radiator with a dedicated radiator?
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by aTX427
CPG, I was thinking about separating the trans and engine oil coolers from my DeWitts radiator with those curved Earls coolers through the fog light openings. Will it matter if I just plug the secondary coolers or shold I completely replace my combo radiator with a dedicated radiator?
I would just plug it.

Ya know - I was thinking. Is there a cooling agent, lets say freon, that could be injected in the cavity of the transmission fluid chamber of the Dewiits and plugged. would it act as a cooling agent and bring temps down? Liquid nitrogen?

Last edited by CPG1962; Jun 8, 2010 at 05:32 AM.
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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Oil color checked out ok, so no internal damage..Now the fan wiring harness, can it be checked from up top?
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