Everything you have seen posted will not cure your heating issues. There is just not enough air flow when outside temps are above 90 degrees in stopped traffic with the heat being multiplied from the hot road surface. I have seperate oil cooler with fan, dewitts custom radiator moved down and away from intercooler, dewitts dual fans, shields to deflect air into radiator, foam to stop air from going around top cover plate, lower air deflector to pull air into radiator and still have my coolant temps go to 240 before i cut the a/c off and then the will drop back down to the upper 220's to 230. I have tried meziere electric pump which made things worse at high way speeds and did not help the trafic situations out. I am now using the meziere high out put belt driven pump which is the best so for with evans cool coolant. This coolant won't boil till 400 degrees. The one other thing that seams to be helping is running with a block off plate in place of the thermostat with the heater core blocked off also not to allow the water pump to bypass to heater circuit. With the cars as low to the ground as they are there is no where for the air to go when sitting still even with the dewitts fans pulling 40 percent more air than the factory unit. One good thing about the dewitts fans is they do draw 10 less amps combined than the sigle factory fan.

I have also seen the same heating issues with the A&A intercooler with YSI , world challenge hood and dewitts radiator.
A lot of money and time put into ths with no cure yet!! Living in south LA. temps stay above 90 for aove half the year. Won't stop trying

 

I have found in my track and road logging, that when we placed the intercooler up front, (keep in mind, we make our own intercoolers in house, and can design them anyway we choose) the air going into the air filter is then warmer. The end result was a ZERO drop in IAT's from doing so.
We placed our intercooler where we did because the air flow under the radiator shroud is very great under speed, so there is definately not a problem with flow over the core there, same as the factory radiator placement. It then allows the inlet to the air filter to be fresh air, and the aluminum ducting we use to the intercooler also acts as another intercooler since thats in the fresh air stream as well. Most kits use steel ducting which is a heat sink instead.




Something doesn't sound right there, we see those temps all the time here (mid 90's today) and the temps on the cars stay well under what your having there with the AC on and getting on the car some.

I would remove the radiator and blow it out, even just laying a radiator flat, that looked clean, might surprise you by the large pile of debris it will leave on the floor. At least I have been surprised by it in the past, and the car can look clean as can be inside and out, and mileage does not seem to be a factor either.

An aftermarket radiator would be great, but you should be running cooler then you are, as you are now. If I can help at all let me know.

 

i think you helped plenty im going to flush the system and run a mix of distilled water with water wetter and some antifreeze (car is parked in garage that isnt heated)

id still like to seal the grill a bit, preventing any air from passing the IC/ airfilter. im good with sheet metal and plastic forming and have lots of excess material, if its in any way detrimental ill just pop it off

mind you these high temps are in rush hour traffic, once im moving the temps do come down (oil takes a bit) when the temps are below 85 the car runs the same temps it did stock

 

Kinda grasping at straws here but:

Since it's airflow related I would try logging the commanded and actual fan duty cycle. Could be that the ground wire is not making good connection. You know the one I'm talking about...

When you cleaned out the radiator did you by chance clean out the condenser too? Air has got to go through it first to get to the radiator. I cleaned out both by removing them and blowing air backwards through them but what removed the most was tapping them on the ground. Lots of stuff came out of both, even when they looked clean. Pretty labor intensive and requires recharging the AC but I was at my wits end with my AC problems. Speaking of, check the AC pressure. Too much pressure is generating more heat in the condenser then necessary which is heating up the air before it gets to the radiator.

Lastly, what BOV do you have and is it opening at idle? If it's not then I could maybe see the IC getting heat soaked while in traffic. Again, grasping at straws but you've already tried all the obvious stuff.

I don't think doing some fabbing in the grill area to force more air through the IC/condenser/radiator is a bad idea at all. I think we lose a descent amount of cooling efficiency by ditching the oem radiator shroud.

 

hey there, my ac is ice cold so i dont think its plugged, im def going to blow ait through them tho to clean everything out

im running the 50mm tial, when i build my shroud im going to have it exclude the BOV from the IC as is is blowing out hot compressed air

lol i dont know what ground wire your talking about if that was addressed to me, my fans are coming on I know my tuner set the fans to come on sooner and at a higher duty cycle (they do this on all the sc kits they install)

im not going to be able to get fabbing until winter when i tear the car apart for some appearance mods, ill make a thread of my progress tho

 

The wiring harness to the fans is prone to overheating and melting.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...d-working.html

Obviously yours is not failing completely but it may be at a point of high resistance and the fan is not turning as fast as it could. You'd need to scan it to tell that your acheiving the commanded fan speed.

If you don't have the right spring in the Tial then it will not be open at idle, or even off idle, which is not good for the head unit and is just heating up the air in between the blower and the throttle body. Doesnt seem like that would be the root cause but it cant be helping.

 

I have a dewitts radiator, stock fan, distilled water/2 bottles water wetter/antifreeze and installing my vented hood on Sat. I have been seeing coolant temps in the 220's in stop/go traffic and 105* heat in Texas. I hope to see 5+ degrees cooler with the hood. I do notice that when I stop at idle and raise the hood, I see the temps drop several degrees so will see.

 

In stopped traffic hood will not help even 1 degree but it does get the car cool quicker once you start moving.

 

no no its wide open at idle, ill def check out the fan, thanks

 

I don't think there is an issue with the intercooler. When moving iat temps are lower than outside air and coolant temps come down quickly.
I have increased the space between the intercooler and radiator to allow more air to get to the radiator from under the intercooler from an added deflector under front bumper. It seams there is no where for the air from the fans to go when stopped. Car does run cooler when on a lift and radiator fan has some where to push the air. Remeber dewitts fans are capable of pulling 40% more air across the radiator and it made no change to temps.

I have also tried pure water and 2 bottles of purple ice. Temps still climb above 230 in no time sitting still.

 

I was thinking the same thing..



Is that the car with the LSX block?

 

No aluminum blocks. This isn't just one car. I'm working on one to be able to fix the others. Things are finnaly cooling down a liitle it's only low 90's during the day now and lower 80's at night. I know you don't have this kind of heat in NY so it will be hard for you to get a fix for it. It is not only the ECS s/c doing this nor do i feel it is a ECS problem. Same results with A&A or just adding a Vari ram to a heads and cam Z06 will do it. Need to figure out a way to let the fans work at idle.