REAL WORLD...Performance from E-Force?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,608
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From: DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '10-'13
Thank you.
Faster in the 1/4 means faster on the street too. Some buy because they think the low end TQ on the e-force is going to do something a centri cant and thats 100%
. Centris can produce more TQ down low than tires can take. If you break loose with that, how is full boost by 2000rpm better? A watered down base kit will make 550rwtq and 600rwhp and will light up tires right off idle and you dont get the whining of the manufacturer saying that protecting you car with meth is bad for the S/C.
SpinMonster: Just want to know what the perfomance gains are with the E-Force compared to stock. I'm debating the positives or negatives of the Cent Superchargers over the
The ECS kit with the restrictor plate gets you the low end TQ with a ton of room to grow. I love mine.
Oh yeah, centri's cost less.
If that still doesnt make sense and all you want is light to light, may I suggest only getting gears?
Faster in the 1/4 means faster on the street too. Some buy because they think the low end TQ on the e-force is going to do something a centri cant and thats 100%
. Centris can produce more TQ down low than tires can take. If you break loose with that, how is full boost by 2000rpm better? A watered down base kit will make 550rwtq and 600rwhp and will light up tires right off idle and you dont get the whining of the manufacturer saying that protecting you car with meth is bad for the S/C.SpinMonster: Just want to know what the perfomance gains are with the E-Force compared to stock. I'm debating the positives or negatives of the Cent Superchargers over the
The ECS kit with the restrictor plate gets you the low end TQ with a ton of room to grow. I love mine.
Oh yeah, centri's cost less.
If that still doesnt make sense and all you want is light to light, may I suggest only getting gears?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '10-'13
Does this "BIG named shop" have any idea how stupid that sounds. ECS, Horsepower Sales, Cartech, etc,etc. Are NOT afraid of posting their 1/4 mile accomplishments! By the way you don't have to get axle hop if the car is set up right. Just my 2 cents.
Last edited by theofel; Nov 3, 2010 at 10:38 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Plano TX
ECS, HPSales, Cartech....post up your numbers on a "blower" only C6 install.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,608
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From: DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '10-'13
What are you on?...My original post is on the E-Force and what it can do in the 1/4 mile. That's it! If you have been on this forum for a while...you will realize the Venders of performance products...do list their accomplishments. Please check their web sights for this info.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 223
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From: Casper WY
It seems your lack of results speaks for itself. The E-Force has been out long enough and installed on enough cars that there should be plenty of results. Spin said it right. Faster in the 1/4 is faster on the street. There is a reason why most of the sc cars on this forum are centri's. Just my .02 Good luck in whatever you decide and I hope someone will post up some results for you.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '10-'13
Thank you.......your mph in the 1/8 indicates your car has a lot more on top end. Looks like a 10 second car in the high 120's. A little more work on those 60's and my guess would be..mid to low 10's in the 1/4. Thanks again for posting your times. MIKE
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '10-'13
JUST ONE RESPONSE.....and that was a 1/8 not the quarter. Some body else must of raced their E-Force.
Last edited by theofel; Nov 11, 2010 at 09:27 AM.
Race Director
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From: Southampton NJ
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '10-'13
THANKS FOR MAKING MY POINT! FYI that track was one of the only approved NHRA tracks in the NORTH EAST in the early 1960's. I know...I'm old! Lived on L.I. and traveled there to race my 327 powered C Modified Production 1955 chevy. When I turned a 12.7...I was in heaven.
Last edited by theofel; Nov 11, 2010 at 09:29 AM.
Race Director
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From: Southampton NJ
Le Mans Master
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From: Ohio
I think the bottom line is: The E-Force is not really aimed at 1/4 mile dominance....that's for centris and turbos. The E-force is designed for all around street performance or even track days where heat soaking can kept under control by constaint airflow. Like the ZR1, an E-forced LS2, LS3 or LS7 is designed for a seat of the pants driving experience in a single, relativily easy to install, bolt-on that won't require a new hood and still maintains that factory look.
The E-force has it's place, but 1/4 mile competition is not it. Listen to the others, if you want FI for 1/4 or 1/8 mile...go Centri or Turbo.
The E-force has it's place, but 1/4 mile competition is not it. Listen to the others, if you want FI for 1/4 or 1/8 mile...go Centri or Turbo.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '10-'13
You mean you have been illegal all this time. There goes your E.T.---another 50lbs added..
Last edited by theofel; Nov 11, 2010 at 07:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,608
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From: DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '10-'13
I think the bottom line is: The E-Force is not really aimed at 1/4 mile dominance....that's for centris and turbos. The E-force is designed for all around street performance or even track days where heat soaking can kept under control by constaint airflow. Like the ZR1, an E-forced LS2, LS3 or LS7 is designed for a seat of the pants driving experience in a single, relativily easy to install, bolt-on that won't require a new hood and still maintains that factory look.
The E-force has it's place, but 1/4 mile competition is not it. Listen to the others, if you want FI for 1/4 or 1/8 mile...go Centri or Turbo.
The E-force has it's place, but 1/4 mile competition is not it. Listen to the others, if you want FI for 1/4 or 1/8 mile...go Centri or Turbo.
Last edited by theofel; Nov 12, 2010 at 05:04 AM.
Race Director
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From: Southampton NJ
yep, i put on my fire jacket run at night and pull in the lanes with the real race cars, with the factory tint its hard to see inside at night, and rentals of course. i havnt driven the car since dec 8 2009, that was the first time at the track since the cam.
Pro
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From: Chicago IL
OP, I've heard of centri A6 cars, not even headers going 10.4's, one of the Speed Inc. guys told me.
I think if you add any supercharger I'd hope you'd pick up a solid 10 mph... 133mph at least I'd think.
I had a YSi + 8:1 348 ci and on the transbrake it left like an animal, 1.35 on 325's very enjoyable. With the later GT47-88 T6 turbo it was laggy and way less fun to race.
I think if you add any supercharger I'd hope you'd pick up a solid 10 mph... 133mph at least I'd think.
I had a YSi + 8:1 348 ci and on the transbrake it left like an animal, 1.35 on 325's very enjoyable. With the later GT47-88 T6 turbo it was laggy and way less fun to race.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: DELRAY BEACH FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '10-'13
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Lehigh Valley Pennsylvania
Anyone whose number one requirement is how fast the car gets down the quarter probably wouldn't start with a supercharger that weighs 25lbs more than a centri. You missed my subtle hint above about heat soak and short engine run cycles. Here you go...
You drive the car to the track on a hot day and the car maintains decent IATs just as it was designed to. The IATs aren't great but they are well within norms. You shut the car down and guess what happens?...the entire mass of the PD blower housing starts to work it's way up to the engine block temp. You fire the car up and you are staring at a 150 IAT number....things are heat soaked. No way you are going to bring that down unless you take the car for a 5 minute stroll at 60mph. Your turn comes up in the queue, you pull up, you heat the tires and then you take the car, which has now thoroughly heat soaked, and you run it WOT for about 11 seconds. IATs are now really up there now and the coolant in your reservoir is now nice and hot, just like the blower housing. You return to the pit area, shut the car down, and guess what, the heat soak cycle continues but this time all of the numbers are 160+. At an IAT of 131 degrees, the Edelbrock start starts pulling timing. Every successive run would net you higher temps and a longer ET.
Once you heat soak a PD blower it takes either a long cool down cycle at speed with lots of airflow across the heat exchanger or many hours "at rest" for the entire assembly to cool down. Unless you have a large fan blowing across the heat exchanger and hot-wire the cooling pump to ON, you'll never cool it down between runs.
There is a reason you don't see many PD blowers at the track!
If your #1 criteria is how fast you can get down the quarter mile....BUY A CENTRI
My two cents worth
You drive the car to the track on a hot day and the car maintains decent IATs just as it was designed to. The IATs aren't great but they are well within norms. You shut the car down and guess what happens?...the entire mass of the PD blower housing starts to work it's way up to the engine block temp. You fire the car up and you are staring at a 150 IAT number....things are heat soaked. No way you are going to bring that down unless you take the car for a 5 minute stroll at 60mph. Your turn comes up in the queue, you pull up, you heat the tires and then you take the car, which has now thoroughly heat soaked, and you run it WOT for about 11 seconds. IATs are now really up there now and the coolant in your reservoir is now nice and hot, just like the blower housing. You return to the pit area, shut the car down, and guess what, the heat soak cycle continues but this time all of the numbers are 160+. At an IAT of 131 degrees, the Edelbrock start starts pulling timing. Every successive run would net you higher temps and a longer ET.
Once you heat soak a PD blower it takes either a long cool down cycle at speed with lots of airflow across the heat exchanger or many hours "at rest" for the entire assembly to cool down. Unless you have a large fan blowing across the heat exchanger and hot-wire the cooling pump to ON, you'll never cool it down between runs.
There is a reason you don't see many PD blowers at the track!
If your #1 criteria is how fast you can get down the quarter mile....BUY A CENTRI
My two cents worth
Well said, no question on what you should run. PDs are fun from stop light to stop light, but for top end you can't beat a centrifugal. To the OP, Meth is almost a requirement on any F/I setup, even more so living in the south. All F/I setups will heat soak pretty bad, ask Spin. A H/C/Gears car will run at the track all day long with F/I cars making 100 more hp as they start to heat soak and pull tons of timing. Add Meth and a good radiator and the game changes considerably provided the F/I car is tired properly.
Last edited by NormWild; Dec 13, 2010 at 07:58 AM.